Deuce Radiator removal

[panzerjunky]

Can one of you fine gents give me a play by play on removing the deuce radiator it looks very strait forward I am just asking in case there is some little trick that I would miss.
Thanks Jerry

 

[clinto]

Drain coolant.
Remove upper brace running from radiator "frame" to front of cylinder head.
Remove upper hose.
Remove fan (careful not to damage fins).
From underside, disconnect lower radiator hose at the radiator.
Curse Engineers for putting lower hose in such a place.
Remove grille guard.
Remove 2 nuts on the long studs which hold the radiator to the front motor mount.
Lift radiator up, careful not to damage the threads on the long studs.

As long as it it is out, check front of engine for leaks, or needed repairs or servicing (now is the ideal time for a leaking front crank seal, etc.). Check belts and hoses.

Reinstallation:

I found what was easiest for me was to lay the radiator on top of the front motor mount plate, the studs not in the their holes; push the lower hose onto the radiator, then wiggle the radiator studs into the plate. Once it's in, you can snake your hand up in their and tighten the clamp for the lower. Don't forget the springs and the ground strap on one of the studs.

Up top, go ahead and reinstall the fan now, while the radiator is still loose and has some play and can be leaned forward. Once the fan is in, do the upper hose, then the adjustable rod running from the front head to the radiator frame. Now you just need to tighten the nuts on the lower studs, check all your connections (bolts, hoses, clamps), refill with water and hope it doesn't leak. If it doesn't leak, reinstall the grille guard.

Payment for services is accepted as paypal, cash or MV parts.

 

[LanceRobson]

If the engine has a turbo, the fuel injector timing should have been retarded from 25 degrees before top dead center (TDC) to 20 degrees before TDC. While it's out, it's a good time to check it. It's a quick check and the timing change is pretty simple.

Lance

 

[cattlerepairman]

If your truck is w/w, be careful when you lean the rad forward towards the winch. The lock latch for the clutch lever can damage the fins. Put a piece of cardboard or plywood between the rad and the winch.

 

[Barrman]

For sure on the cardboard for a winch truck. I poked a hole in a good radiator without it. Don't forget the ground strap when undoing stuff on the bottom. You would be amazed how much force those straps take before either they snap or the remover smartens up and looks for something still attached.

 

[combat32]

X2 on cursing the location of that lower hose, I have pulled several now and always lose my religion there

 

[ARYankee]

I've done 2 and I'm starting to get good at it. I don't have a winch so I loosen the bolts on the grill that mount it to the bumper. Then I remove the ones on the brace that goes into the engine compartment on the grill. Usually that is a pain to get back together in the end. I drain the radiator while I'm loosening things. I loosen the hose clamps, then I take the bolt out for the stabilizer bracket on the top portion of the radiator. Its easier to do then to remove the ones on the sides. I remove the nuts on the bottom of the radiator. Now I will lean the radiator forward so I can remove the fan blade. Once that is done, it makes getting the radiator in and out easier. Then I just reverse the process.

 

[panzerjunky]

Thanks Guys
As for cursing the engineers I have found myself doing that quite a bit on this thing I se a hole where I hand get my hand in but to get my hand in and operate a wrench that is another issue all together.
And thanks for the heads up with the cardboard or plywood as I do have a winch and I would have poked a hole in something.
Thanks again
Jerry

 

[cattlerepairman]

Thanks Guys
As for cursing the engineers I have found myself doing that quite a bit on this thing I se a hole where I hand get my hand in but to get my hand in and operate a wrench that is another issue all together.
And thanks for the heads up with the cardboard or plywood as I do have a winch and I would have poked a hole in something.
Thanks again
Jerry

I also highly recommend the TMs. The illustrations and step-by-step procedures are second to none and a great help.
Findng the right manual can be a little intimidasting at first because of their number coding, but it is well worth the effort. I like the electronic version, because references in the text are hyperlinked and you can jump back and forth between text and illustrations etc.

 

[panzerjunky]

I also highly recommend the TMs. The illustrations and step-by-step procedures are second to none and a great help.
Findng the right manual can be a little intimidasting at first because of their number coding, but it is well worth the effort. I like the electronic version, because references in the text are hyperlinked and you can jump back and forth between text and illustrations etc.

Hey Cattlerepairman
Would you happen to know the tm No that i should look in?
Thanks Jerry

 

[gunboy1656]

Curious minds wanna know the TM number, as I will be starting this project myself this weekend.

Also as a side note anyone have a good rad for sale? My buddy left here yesterday heading home and texted me saying his was leaking like a siv, had coolant everywhere. He is out in Ohio.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Where in Ohio?

 

[gunboy1656]

gimpyrobb, PM sent

 

[rmgill]

Look at the silicone radiator hoses and spring T-Clamps. They work VERY well, are VERY stable and slide on and off far easier than the plain rubber/cord re-enforced hoses. They're not cheap but they are worth the expense for our trucks.

 

[CARNAC]

I also highly recommend the TMs. The illustrations and step-by-step procedures are second to none and a great help.
Findng the right manual can be a little intimidasting at first because of their number coding, but it is well worth the effort. I like the electronic version, because references in the text are hyperlinked and you can jump back and forth between text and illustrations etc.

DITTO. The TM is our friend.

TM 9-2320-361-24-1
TM 9-2320-361-24-2
TM 9-2320-361-10 (gotta read this one)
TM 9-2320-209-20P (parts manual for direct support maintenance)
TM 9-2320-209-34P (parts manual general support maintenance)

You also have different TM's for the different engines, transmissions, alternators, starters, and maybe one or two other things I'm missing.

 

[Bill W]

Hey guys anyone know how tight to go on the springs on the bottom rad studs??

 

[Farmun]

Just went through radiator replacement yesterday. Using the TM, I was Soldier A, and my 10 yr old son was Soldier B. (Soldier B must be a supervisor in all the TMs cause he don't do much). Anyway, it well real smooth. Started at about 08:30, and by 10:45 was ready to fill with coolant. On the springs, I tightened them until they were about 3/4 of their original uncompressed length. We'll see if that works out.

 

[DavidB]

LOCK HOOD IN RAISED POSITION at start of this operation ! Have seen soldier A learn the hard way.Soldier B now does first aid.
DavidB

 

[Farmun]

LOCK HOOD IN RAISED POSITION at start of this operation ! Have seen soldier A learn the hard way.Soldier B now does first aid.
DavidB

Yep. Lock her up real good !!!!

 

[Seth_O]

Reviving an old thread here (love the search):

Remove fan (careful not to damage fins).

Is there a trick to removing the fan? I have pulled the belts off the pulley (just in case), taken the 4 bolts out of the front and removed the snap-ring. Still the fan does not budge. I am nervous to get after it too hard as I don't want to snap the blades or damage a perfectly good radiator.

Any help is appreciated.