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My Deuce kept puking oil down through the bell housing, especially after spirited runs. Typical was a "burp" after shutdown. She splattered a nice oil puddle in an IMPARK parking lot at work. Good girl. That's pretty much what I think of IMPARK. Clutch started slipping, so that was that.
Passenger seat out, center tunnel panels, shafts disconnected, the usual. Drain the transmission lube and remove the top cover. I put a plastic bag over the top to keep debris out.
I used my engine hoist through the passenger door to lower the tranny onto a piece of plywood between the hoist legs, so I could simply pull the hoist out from under the truck, with the tranny on it. The bellhousing fits through the gap between front tire and fender with the wheels turned all the way to the left.
Work smarter, not harder, right?
Installed new rear main. Was it really leaking? Hmmm.
Opened the PTO for installing new seals and boots. Installed new main shaft bearings (TIMKEN 1308SL), which have "more balls" and are supposed to be less sloppy than the originals.
Tip number 1: for pressing the new bearing onto the main shaft, I used the spacer/thrust washer from the rear output shaft. That works, BUT you HAVE to stack larger ID washers between it and the bearing. Why? Because the bearing sits on a WIDER part of the shaft where the spacer/thrust washer cannot slide onto. It only slides on the splined part.
Ask me how I know that.
I had it in the press, and it made the spacer go where it was not supposed to...needed to heat and pry to get it off. Thankfully, it's still serviceable...
Tip number 2: if you use a standard Harbour Freight type engine hoist, they are a tad too short to really center over the tranny.
Remove 4 bolts and nuts and the passenger step. Gives you another 8 inches to move the hoist closer to the tranny.
Tip number 3: Take the time to replace all paper gaskets on the tranny. I made all of mine myself, I find it fun to do. I discovered that there was no gasket between the casing and the input shaft guide. That makes this piece sit too far inwards and it likely also leaked.
The bolts holding the bellhousing to the casing are drilled through. If not torqued, they will leak tranny oil. Mine were torqued but still leaked. So, I added thread sealant on assembly.
Based on the oily mess, I suspect it was the input/front side of my tranny leaking, more so than the engine rear main.
Tip number 4: after trying to stab the darn tranny into the clutch disc for over an hour, my Tip is to enlist a soldier B. Otherwise it gets miserable pretty quickly
Tip number 5: If it does not WANT to go in, walk away.
I re-lowered the tranny, re-centered the clutch disc (note: plastic clutch centering tools are @#$%^!!). Use a light and visualize the pilot bearing all the way back, peeking in through the splined hole in the clutch disc. Your peepers are very accurate at picking up whether or not the disc is centered. Use a crappy plastic clutch dowel to check (not to actually position the disc). Visualize the space between the pressure plate and the splined centre of the clutch disc - again, your peepers are a great tool and you can run a finger around the gap as well to feel whether the gap gets narrower or wider.
I used a ratchet strap around the output shaft housing so that I could tilt the tranny as needed. Guess what......after a few minutes of wrangling and height-adjusting it slid right in. I was glad I did not have my fingers between bell housing and engine!! Four bolts in....tranny holds on its own......beer o'clock!
Sent from my SM-G991W using Tapatalk
Passenger seat out, center tunnel panels, shafts disconnected, the usual. Drain the transmission lube and remove the top cover. I put a plastic bag over the top to keep debris out.
I used my engine hoist through the passenger door to lower the tranny onto a piece of plywood between the hoist legs, so I could simply pull the hoist out from under the truck, with the tranny on it. The bellhousing fits through the gap between front tire and fender with the wheels turned all the way to the left.
Work smarter, not harder, right?
Installed new rear main. Was it really leaking? Hmmm.
Opened the PTO for installing new seals and boots. Installed new main shaft bearings (TIMKEN 1308SL), which have "more balls" and are supposed to be less sloppy than the originals.
Tip number 1: for pressing the new bearing onto the main shaft, I used the spacer/thrust washer from the rear output shaft. That works, BUT you HAVE to stack larger ID washers between it and the bearing. Why? Because the bearing sits on a WIDER part of the shaft where the spacer/thrust washer cannot slide onto. It only slides on the splined part.
Ask me how I know that.
I had it in the press, and it made the spacer go where it was not supposed to...needed to heat and pry to get it off. Thankfully, it's still serviceable...
Tip number 2: if you use a standard Harbour Freight type engine hoist, they are a tad too short to really center over the tranny.
Remove 4 bolts and nuts and the passenger step. Gives you another 8 inches to move the hoist closer to the tranny.
Tip number 3: Take the time to replace all paper gaskets on the tranny. I made all of mine myself, I find it fun to do. I discovered that there was no gasket between the casing and the input shaft guide. That makes this piece sit too far inwards and it likely also leaked.
The bolts holding the bellhousing to the casing are drilled through. If not torqued, they will leak tranny oil. Mine were torqued but still leaked. So, I added thread sealant on assembly.
Based on the oily mess, I suspect it was the input/front side of my tranny leaking, more so than the engine rear main.
Tip number 4: after trying to stab the darn tranny into the clutch disc for over an hour, my Tip is to enlist a soldier B. Otherwise it gets miserable pretty quickly
Tip number 5: If it does not WANT to go in, walk away.
I re-lowered the tranny, re-centered the clutch disc (note: plastic clutch centering tools are @#$%^!!). Use a light and visualize the pilot bearing all the way back, peeking in through the splined hole in the clutch disc. Your peepers are very accurate at picking up whether or not the disc is centered. Use a crappy plastic clutch dowel to check (not to actually position the disc). Visualize the space between the pressure plate and the splined centre of the clutch disc - again, your peepers are a great tool and you can run a finger around the gap as well to feel whether the gap gets narrower or wider.
I used a ratchet strap around the output shaft housing so that I could tilt the tranny as needed. Guess what......after a few minutes of wrangling and height-adjusting it slid right in. I was glad I did not have my fingers between bell housing and engine!! Four bolts in....tranny holds on its own......beer o'clock!
Sent from my SM-G991W using Tapatalk
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