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Deuce rollback/flatbed with rolling tailboard/winch?

DavidWymore

Well-known member
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El Centro, CA
Thinking about using a deuce for off road towing/recovery. Ever seen one with a bed mounted winch? Flat bed with the droptail or rolling tail board like the oil field trucks?


Thanks
 

Angus1

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Freeland,Pa
I had a similar thought, there is an old roll back near me that needs a motor. I wanted to buy just the bed and the hyd. I'm still waiting for a reply.
 

grizcty

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Alaska
Thinking about using a deuce for off road towing/recovery. Ever seen one with a bed mounted winch? Flat bed with the droptail or rolling tail board like the oil field trucks?


Thanks
Don't know what happened to my first reply?

A couple of thoughts.

Strengthen the cross members/frame.
Especially were you mount the winch.

Electric or PTO?
What kind of vehicles?
Rolling (on 4 wheels) or ROLLED?

The height of the deuce may be a big factor.
As the taller the loading platform, the LONGER approach is needed.

Remember when loading.
ALWAYS load straight, and watch the position of wheels on disabled veh..

All 4X4 crew cab 1 tons, need a minimal of 21-23' of deck space.
Always load from front. (or you will need a even longer deck)

Any shorter, make sure you have a will previously made out!

Simple suggestion.
As I do this for a living.

:idea:Drag them out, and load them up on a trailer.:idea:

Good luck.

REMEMBER SAFITY FIRST!!
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
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GA Mountains
Best mil truck for the job would probably be an M814. It carries a 20' bed already but a rollback bed requires a short frame behind the axles. The truck is probably long enough to mount a K-Boom in front of the bed. Matt at Green Gem had in Int'l rollback with a K-Boom on the front, it was very sweet.
 

Jake0147

Member
782
18
18
Location
Panton, VT
I have a couple of thoughts on that subject...

Hooklift flatbed bodies are cumbersome for use as flatbed car haulers. They are terribly limited in recovery situations due to the inability of the body to support much in the way of winching other than very straight forward loading. You also have the issue of loose hydraulic lines (or electrical wires if it's for very limited use).
The standard deuce is too short for a "useable" slideback wrecker. You could build one or retrofit/modify a commercial one to be stout and all, but it's going to be very limited as to what you can load up on it.
An M36 would be an excellent starting point to set up a commercial light duty sub frame, a 19 or 21 foot deck (the "previous" and "current" standard in the light towing industry) would fit nicely on top of that.

Flatbeds in general are poorly suited to many off-road recoveries from get-go. Even very capable ones. They are large and difficult to "allign" to a disabled vehicle resulting in the temptation to abuse or misuse them, tree damage to the victim on the way out, the inevitable self recovery that could have been avoided with a much less capable but more maneuverable "conventional" type wrecker.

You'll also want to be very weary of the truck's frame. They are not nearly as stout as the "current" generation of commercial units, and older trucks of more comperable frame strength did have problems with the vehicle's frame, usually attributable to the operator although not requiring a really bad operator, and not requiring them to do anything too "dramatic" and still limited to on-road use. It will do fine IF you're very aware of what you're working with and use it accordingly.

I really, really want to do this, but I can't afford the flatbed parts, I can't afford a second truck, I can't see trading mine for one of a more suitable length, and I can't figure out what I would actually use it for, and it'd do nothing but get me into trouble in places that I really shouldn't be anyhow... And honestly the fact that I work on flatbeds is the only reason that this is appealing to me. Realistically, if I wanted to offer assistance for fun or for profit to people who were stuck, broken, mangled, or otherwise disabled off of the highway, I'd be looking at a conventional type wrecker. Even if I had a trailer to move the disabled vehicle once it's out of wherever it was. Much, much more practical, versatile, efficient, and sturdier. (although you'd still have to watch the frame a bit, just not so much).

But I'd still really like to do the flatbed...
 

DavidWymore

Well-known member
1,598
164
63
Location
El Centro, CA
Bridge trucks are COOL.

I'm currently usng my Dodge and a heavy duty steel tilt deck trailer. 12k electric winch in the truck bed with an A-frame boom for lifting when necessary. My truck's factory chassis= frame needs to be boxed in the rest of the way fromt the front to the back (only 3/4 of the way from the factory). It works so that's what I'll probably continue with.
 
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grizcty

New member
280
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0
Location
Alaska
Bridge trucks are COOL.

I'm currently usng my Dodge and a heavy duty steel tilt deck trailer. 12k electric winch in the truck bed with an A-frame boom for lifting when necessary. My frame needs to be boxed in the rest of the way (only 3/4 of the way from the factory). It works so that's what I'll probably continue with.
Hey David,

I am interested in your A frame & winch, set up.
Could you post some pictures?

I am thinking about buying a Unimog.
And doing the same thing.
 

DavidWymore

Well-known member
1,598
164
63
Location
El Centro, CA
Channel iron frame U-bolted thru the bed to the truck frame. Winch bolted to the front end of it. Tractor link ends welded into heavy pipes for the A frame pivots with flat plates welded to the top with a hole for the chain from the front of the frame to the top of the A to hold it up (planning to make rigid links) and a hole to hang a snatch block from, as well as two smaller holes to bolt them together. You can unbolt them and drop them down in the bed when not in use.



 

grizcty

New member
280
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Location
Alaska
Hey David,

Thanks for the pictures!

Was this A frame home built, or factory built/manufactured?
I ask only because of being confused, by this sentence.

"My frame needs to be boxed in the rest of the way (only 3/4 of the way from the factory). It works so that's what I'll probably continue with."

I will need to figure, which is the most cost effective.

Thanks.
 

DavidWymore

Well-known member
1,598
164
63
Location
El Centro, CA
I built it, but I run a machine and welding shop so it's not exactly home built. I did slap it together with junk I had around the shop, so it's not pretty but it's strong. The tow boom frame is open channel.


I was referring to my truck's factory frame in the statement you are asking about. I lifted too hard with the A frame and tweaked the rear section of my truck's frame. I imagine a unimog would have a stronger frame than my dodge. The later model dodges' frames are boxed all the way, making them a lot more rigid and stronger.

I don't know where you are in relation to him, but look up

www.akfabshop.com

He should be able to help you out, they build setups like this for moose a lot.
 
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