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DEUCE spin on oil filters!!!!

jatonka

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I am producing the adaptor kits right now, I just want to run the 3 trucks that have them on them a little longer to be certain there aren't going to be any headaches. I agree that you could get oil spillage when changing the filters but we didn't on the first change, maybe 3 or 4 tablespoons full. I'll do it again this weekend and post back. I'll be ready to sell in June I figure. I'll be around here most nights. JT
 

OPCOM

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So even if the filter is full of oil, it won't pour out when changed?
In any case, do you mean that after sitting for weeks, the oil pressure comes up in 3 seconds?

My olde beasite sits for 2-3 weeks at a time. I sure do hate the 20-second wait for presure..
 

bottleworks

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I am glad that more and more filtering solutions are coming to light. Before I installed remote filters, my gut would hurt waiting for the oil pressure to build @ every start.
 

mangus580

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Western NY
Not to rain on anyones parade, but what is the benifit here? 2-3 seconds faster of oil pressure time? The micron rating doesnt seem to really be any better on the filters. And as I have stated before, I didnt think chaning cartridge style filters was all that difficult... actually think its cleaner myself.

Am I missing something?
 

JDToumanian

Active member
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Not to rain on anyones parade, but what is the benifit here? 2-3 seconds faster of oil pressure time?
I think the benefit is three-fold... faster oil pressure, better micron ratings and more convenience.

The oil pressure change is dramatic - It's not a 2-3 second improvement, it's 2-3 seconds to FULL PRESSURE, whereas it could take up to 15 seconds before. My deuce took 12 seconds, so for me it's a 9 second improvement every time I start up. That could add hundreds of thousands of miles of life to the engine.

As for the micron ratings, Devilman's remote filter kit changes that dramatically too - from ~25 microns or so for the cartridges down to ~6 for the NAPA filter the kit uses.

The convenience factor isn't particularly important to me... it's all about prolonging engine life. I'm going to be adding a centrifugal bypass filter, too!

Regards,
Jon
 

cranetruck

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What is the definition of a dry start?
If an engine is started after being off for a few minutes, is it still a "dry start"? Apparently UPS has no problem with shutting down and restarting their engines 40 or more times/day.
The bearings remain lubed after a shut down, the question is for how long, a day or a week?
I'm testing D-man's system and with the long connections, adapters and the oil cooler still to fill (pressurize), it takes about 5 seconds to full pressure compared to about 8 seconds with the mil spec filter system.
If we want instant oil pressure, pre-lube pumping is the way to go. A pre-lube system with a bypass filter would be the perfect solution, which also would not effect the extreme cold weather operation of these engines for which they were designed.
If you need to preheat the oil in a cold weather situation, you can't have oil trapped in filter canisters, at least not full-flow types.

Convenience of changing filters? The empty upside-down canisters are very easy to change and the elements can easily be inspected and they are easier to dispose of, carrying no oil.

Note: The dip stick oil level will be different when some of the oil is trapped in the filters, don't fill to "full" level any longer.
 

rizzo

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Location
Port Huron, MI
I have had leaks on two of my trucks. one I repositioned the canister and it went away. the other i found that the large bolt thing is bent and I think that is causing my leak. anyone else have these problems. any tips or tricks?

I have been think in of these other filters because of the leaks, but maybe I just need a little more practice changing the old ones.

comments?
 

rdixiemiller

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Olive Branch Mississipi
One thing to remember about these bearings, they are not designed to be run with oil in them, but with pressurized oil in them. The pressurized oil keeps the crank and rods "floating" in a thin film of high pressure oil. When the pressure is low enough that the bearing actually contacts the crank, hammering and wear will occur. Properly bearing clearance and oil pressure will keep an engine running for years. Zero pressure starts will gradually eat the main and rod bearings up.
 

OPCOM

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rizzo said:
I have had leaks on two of my trucks. one I repositioned the canister and it went away. the other i found that the large bolt thing is bent and I think that is causing my leak. anyone else have these problems. any tips or tricks?

I have been think in of these other filters because of the leaks, but maybe I just need a little more practice changing the old ones.

comments?
I had a leak at the top where the bolt head is, and it was only the washer that was bad.
 

alphadeltaromeo

Active member
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Alto, GA
From what I can see from the pictures, the over all concept and the performance of the solution communicated thus far, I personally think it's an excellent choice to what is currently available on an unmodified deuce. It also eliminates the need to torque the stock filters to 60lbs per the TM. It has also been commented to me that 30lbs of torque is a better rating than the TM recommendation of 60lbs...thus eliminating the leaking, as the gasket won't be crushed as much.
 

SierraHotel

Member
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Location
Haymarket, Virginia
Being somewhat new to all of this, only using my TOY Deuce 2,000+/- miles a year and watching it from sidelines, there is some stuff I wonder about...
Is changing the filters to pull at particles down to 1 micron REALLY necessary? Or is it just using available technology and using the best filters available?
Because I am only planning on putting a few thousand miles a year and will likely have to change the oil once a year while it is still relatively still good, is the extra expense of the lower micron filters a wise choice? I’m already looking at spending $100.00 a year in filter and oil changes for a toy.
Again, I’m stuck between the ones that suggest filtering down to 1 micron or less (which is not a bad thing) and those that quote that these trucks have been running for a long time as designed and were designed for hard use and Soldier A and Soldier B that may have not been that intelligent or really cared.
So, is the additional filtering (and cost) really necessary and will it provide enough additional longevity to make the additional cost worth it?

A little off topic, but somewhat related…I am glad that no one has suggested Slick 50. That killed the straight 6 in my F-150 when it fell off after about 80,000 miles and clogged the oil pick-up. Personally, I would recommend that you should steer clear of Slick 50.
 

Recovry4x4

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Thats going to boil down to personal preference. It kills me to modify the oiling system on my trucks but after reviewing what the XD filters do to the oil, I'll be stepping up to that when I can afford it. I've been resisting any type of oil filter modification but have finallly come to the realization that I need to do this. For me it's not about convenience at all. Multifuels tend not to last as long as they should and I'll bet thats a product of the oiling system. I really can't see any reason these engines shouldn't last at least a half million miles. I get that many miles out of a 6.2. I'll do mine and report back when I can.
 

clinto

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Multifuels tend not to last as long as they should and I'll bet thats a product of the oiling system. I really can't see any reason these engines shouldn't last at least a half million miles.
Ditto.
 

Recovry4x4

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Bjorn, you gotta be over 50,000 miles. Some of these engines fail miseraby at 15,000 miles. There is not enough time left in my life to get to a half million but I also don't want to be changing engines because of a failure. I think it might be worth it.
 

OPCOM

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I have done almost 20,000 in 3 years. I intend to keep the truck as long as I can, and to enjoy it. i sometimes wonder what will become of it if I am gone.
 
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