Deuce Tailgate Crane

[gimpyrobb]

I really do need an occasional bed lift device for heavier stuff. I'm still considering winch & ramps, but I really like the idea of a crane.

I'm thinking of a pedestal mount along the principles of the receiver tube idea in the left photo but using the M35 pintle and centering it with the tailgate chained flat. I don't want to drill or weld the bed, and I can work wood better than metal. Everything should store, assemble, & break down to a 4' - 6 x 8, a couple of boards, + crane.

I came up with the idea in the center (crude) drawing that I suspect will be serviceable for the 1/2 ton crane designs for up to 600 - 700 lbs. It should be inexpensive too, the highest priced pieces being the threaded support rod/lunette loop. The truck photo is for perspective and has the working measurements.

All dimensions are approximate and TBD, esp. the lower tip supports. They would quickly bolt/unbolt to the upright. The top could be adjusted for a larger crane base plate than the upright by using a cross-T or flat plate.

Comments?

Steve

I played with making some ramps, too much of a pita if you plan on having the deuce on flat ground. Backing up to a hill is the only way they will work and not be cumbersome.

Don't be hesitant to work with metal -- but work with good metal, not Harry Homeowner stuff from Ace or HD. Threaded rod is not going to cut it. Not strong enough, will crack where it is bent to a sharp radius, and will deflect like all get out anyway.

While I am not as doubtful, I do think you would be better off going to the bumperettes instead of the pintle. The triangulation should keep it solid.

 

[Rambling Wreck]

I really do need an occasional bed lift device for heavier stuff. I'm still considering winch & ramps, but I really like the idea of a crane.

I'm thinking of a pedestal mount along the principles of the receiver tube idea in the left photo but using the M35 pintle and centering it with the tailgate chained flat. I don't want to drill or weld the bed, and I can work wood better than metal. Everything should store, assemble, & break down to a 4' - 6 x 8, a couple of boards, + crane.

I came up with the idea in the center (crude) drawing that I suspect will be serviceable for the 1/2 ton crane designs for up to 600 - 700 lbs. It should be inexpensive too, the highest priced pieces being the threaded support rod/lunette loop. The truck photo is for perspective and has the working measurements.

All dimensions are approximate and TBD, esp. the lower tip supports. They would quickly bolt/unbolt to the upright. The top could be adjusted for a larger crane base plate than the upright by using a cross-T or flat plate.

Comments?

Steve

I am concerned that this design may lack lateral stability. I think you would have a safer, stronger, and simpler design if you would drill two hole through the side of the bed and secured the 6x6 with bolts through those holes. I have tried to illustrate this in the attached picture. Of course you would want the 6x6 to run all the way to the ground; I just ran out of space to draw that. Since this design has inherent lateral support in all directions, you would not need to build wings/feet on the bottom of the 6x6.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Basically, you need to worry about whatever load is on the crane, at however long the crane boom is, is gonna want to kick that 6x6 sideways. Keep in mind the lever effect on the over-all structure. I would want the top AND bottom securely held in place.

 

[SteveKuhn]

I appreciate these responses. I've been through a number of these ideas on the way to yesterday's drawing but I'm looking again with fresh eyes with the new ideas.

The problem with working metal is that I just don't have the equipment and there's no budget or storage right now for reasonably good stuff that gets such occasional use.

I'm going to revisit either the bumperettes or the shackles behind them for support and stand-off from the tailgate's center. G-Force made the same point as Gimpy. I'd favor a steel triangle at the top plus a cross to the bottom-opposite sides of the upright in an 'X'.

The side post drawing got considered and rejected because of horizontal hole drilling in the bed sides. Looking at the drawing offered and then looking at the truck, the idea could work if the bolts were vertical through the undersides of the lips of the top and bottom C channels on the bed's side. Holes are fine as long as they're not visible. I'd have steel straps made that move the upright back to stand beside the tailgate. I don't want to remove troop seats for a lift. They would have a couple of vertical bolts into the C channel, back to front and into the upright.

Both of these would require having the pieces made but they would be pretty simple with a few bends and holes. Don't think they'd cost much.

A visit to HF last night to look at their 1/2 ton cranes again gave me some pause on weight and time to move, assemble, and break down the rigs and base. Spending $ to build something that takes 30 minutes of time on either side of a 5 minute lift doesn't make a lot of sense.

Alternatives: I do have a 5' High Lift jack with 2 sets of hook straps to use as a lift or winch; chains, straps and a 1 ton lifting sling; several dollies; a set of 8' aluminum ramps and access to the 11' scaffold plank Mule ramps we made. We've used the latter on a Deuce, M105, and a CCKW. 3 guys who've done it setup or tear it down in 10 mins. and I'd only need 2 of the boards.

Gimpy's right that ramps a bit of a pain, but that stuff costs nothing and I'm not gonna be using it very often. I'm weighing that against the pain of setting up and taking down my removable crane ideas. I'm now thinking that the time and humping involved might be just about a wash.

An engine hoist was another suggestion I rejected because it weighs about 175 lbs, but the High Lift would equalize that. Lift onto the bed, brace with opposing straps, lift & swing.

Back to the drawing board. If I planned on using it as much as many of you do and I was willing to punch holes in the bed, it would be easier to solve.

I really appreciate having you guys for a sanity check.

Steve

 

[resqur]

I found this locally, it was mounted on the bumper of a Ford F350. The controller and cable needs to be replaced but I couldn't pass it up for the price. I'm trying to decide how to mount it. I was leaning toward cutting the bumper box down and mounting it in the bed of the deuce.

 

[TsgtB]

http://www.discountramps.com/apex-r...tm_term=keyword&utm_campaign=Bing+Product+Ads

I'm looking into a receiver mounted crane, with its own outrigger feet. Looks like it would be more stable, might have to put some other type of tongue jacks or something to beef up the feet, but on a class V extra duty receiver, you would have use of the entire bed, totally removable, use it from either side.
strap down in a transport mode, while still mounted to the receiver, and still not too expensive (under $300)

 

[Rambling Wreck]

http://www.discountramps.com/apex-r...tm_term=keyword&utm_campaign=Bing+Product+Ads

I'm looking into a receiver mounted crane, with its own outrigger feet. Looks like it would be more stable, might have to put some other type of tongue jacks or something to beef up the feet, but on a class V extra duty receiver, you would have use of the entire bed, totally removable, use it from either side.
strap down in a transport mode, while still mounted to the receiver, and still not too expensive (under $300)

I think this is a novel/clever idea, but it would not be tall enough to work without completely rebuilding the base to make it higher. As built it basically has a maximum extended boom height of 73". That doesn't really leave any room for the height of whatever it is you're lifting. From the pictures you can tell that it can barely lift the generator high enough to fit into the back of a Toyota Tacoma. I think a better solution would be maybe a hybrid of this design with what I suggested in my last post above. Basically take what I previously showed and add bracing (like gimpyrobb suggested). I've tried to illustrate this in the image below by adding the red line to represent where the bracing should probably go. It could still be made to where the whole thing could break down and or fold up fairly easily.

 

[TsgtB]

Seems like i see bed cranes every day lately....
I'm still debating which side would be better, on drivers side seems like it wouldnt make a blind spot on the road, or worse while backing. I do have big mirrors, so i'm weighing the options.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Put it on the passenger side.

If you ever need to use it, the truck will be between you and traffic, a huge advantage imho.

 

[FloridaAKM]

Northern Tool has a crane that will lift 1000# extended & 2000# retracted for less than $500.00 that can be adapted to the LMTV or the Deuce. The Deuce mounting would be permanent as where the LMTV could be moved to any of the four corners in the bed with a modification to the base!