Deuce Transmission Removal Crossbar

[Beyond Biodiesel]

TM9-2320-209-34-2-1, chapter 8 has transmission removal. If everything is disconnected, I'd think either your input shaft is stuck in the pilot bushing or you otherwise have too much bind from how you're lifting it.

Thanks, Big Z, downloaded it. Here is a link to TM9-2320-209-34-2-1

 

[Beyond Biodiesel]

Sorry to have dragged the repair of my deuce's clutch. I had to focus the last 2 weeks upon repairing my daily driver.

Yesterday I was able to get back to pulling the transmission out. I borrowed 2 more come-alongs. I attached one underneath the frame, and attached one end to a frame rail, and the other end to the chain that I had rapped around the transmission. That come-along quickly pulled the transmission back, separating it from the engine.

Now, my problem is wiggling, and rocking the transmission out, either up, or down. Two come-alongs are making it easy to rock, twist, and tilt the transmission to wiggle it out. So far, using two come-alongs has worked really well. However, there just does not seem to be enough room to clear the spline on the drive shaft, or the universal behind the transmission.

So, I am now pulling the passenger seat out, and the drive-line cover under the seat. It looks like I may have to fully remove the complex universal joint behind the transmission, but it is not easy to reach. Does anyone have any suggestions to get the transmission out?

 

[gringeltaube]

Well, you seem to have chosen the most difficult-impossible route for your task?
Usually, both transmission tunnel(covers) are the first thing to remove when you plan to pull the transmission. Second, you unbolt that jack-shaft at the output flange side and leave it hanging down. 3rd, shift the tranny into first gear, or remove the top cover entirely. Then use one of your come-alongs as shown earlier in this thread.
Seats can remain in place, the whole time. Just flip up the pass. seat.

 

[Beyond Biodiesel]

Well, you seem to have chosen the most difficult-impossible route for your task?
Usually, both transmission tunnel(covers) are the first thing to remove when you plan to pull the transmission. Second, you unbolt that jack-shaft at the output flange side and leave it hanging down. 3rd, shift the tranny into first gear, or remove the top cover entirely. Then use one of your come-alongs as shown earlier in this thread.
Seats can remain in place, the whole time. Just flip up the pass. seat.

I did all of that weeks ago, and it is still too snug. It is possible that my M756A2 is too full of other stuff, like a rear winch, to allow for removing the transmission without taking something else out.

PS: The transfer case is unbolted, but will not come out either.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Push the jackshaft over to the side out of the way and tie it up with string or a piece of wire. You can also unbolt it from the transfer case and remove the shaft entirely if you want. That'll allow the transmission to move rearward far enough to fully evacuate the clutch and housing.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Pull the short shaft that connects the trans to transfer case. 8 bolts and your done.

 

[Ajax MD]

I ended up buying this for transfer and transmission work:
https://www.harborfreight.com/2000-...jack-60240.html?_br_psugg_q=transmission+jack

I have a 5-ton, so I suspect you could safely downsize to this:
https://www.harborfreight.com/800-lbs-low-lift-transmission-jack-60234.html

I know, Harbor Freight isn't known for high quality. That's why I bought the 1-ton model. It gave me a 1400 lb. safety margin. I just didn't trust the ledges in the cab to carry the weight of my transfer with the homemade crossbar method.

Beyond Biodiesel: When you say "The transfer case is unbolted, but will not come out either." I sure hope that you aren't going underneath the truck while the transfer is in this condition. If nothing is holding the transfer other than rust and friction in the mounts, it could drop onto you unexpectedly.

As gimpyrobb says, remove the jackshaft entirely. It's just easier than trying to tie it up out of the way and only takes moments.

 

[rustystud]

I ended up buying this for transfer and transmission work:
https://www.harborfreight.com/2000-...jack-60240.html?_br_psugg_q=transmission+jack

I have a 5-ton, so I suspect you could safely downsize to this:
https://www.harborfreight.com/800-lbs-low-lift-transmission-jack-60234.html

I know, Harbor Freight isn't known for high quality. That's why I bought the 1-ton model. It gave me a 1400 lb. safety margin. I just didn't trust the ledges in the cab to carry the weight of my transfer with the homemade crossbar method.

Beyond Biodiesel: When you say "The transfer case is unbolted, but will not come out either." I sure hope that you aren't going underneath the truck while the transfer is in this condition. If nothing is holding the transfer other than rust and friction in the mounts, it could drop onto you unexpectedly.

As gimpyrobb says, remove the jackshaft entirely. It's just easier than trying to tie it up out of the way and only takes moments.

I bought that 2000Ibs tranny jack last year and it works fine on our deuce's transmission.

 

[Beyond Biodiesel]

I finally got a friend to help me unbolt and remove the passenger bench seat, which allowed me to remove the third floor pan, which gave me access to the jackshaft, which I removed yesterday, which allowed me to use 2 come-alongs to wiggle the transmission out. It is now resting on a pallet underneath the truck. I now have access to the clutch, which I hope to remove today. And, I did not have to remove the transfer case.

Now that I finally have the transmission out of the way, can anyone recommend a clutch replacement thread?