deuce winch overhaul

[orrisd4]

ok its mounted to the deuce, so this seem like the right spot.

To start with i have test run the winch several times , worked flawless.
I removed the cable , checked the fluid level on the winch that's where things started going terribly wrong.
when i stuck my finger in i felt NO oil at all , but i did feel something it turned out to be water, only on the one side but both sides are dry oil wise.
the drum lock on the side is gone. i don't mean worn to a non-working state, i mean it is not physically there anymore.


Now at this point i have my radiator removed and at the radiator shop being boiled out and pressure tested,so i have plenty of room to work .
Unfortunately this seems to have escalated from headache to cluster-****.what i really need right now is someone to give me a decent plan of attack on how to approach this repair.Should i dis-mount the winch from the frame, i have a nagging feeling this is going to be necessary at some point anyway? Finally which TM has the rebuild procedure in it ? i really don't see how you guys have such an easy time finding things in there.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I have found that if a winch needs to be removed from a truck, its best to pull it with the bumper.

YES, you need to pull the winch off to rebuild it. I have done 5ton winches and M715 winches, but not a deuce, so this is all the advise I can give you.

 

[jasonjc]

Yes you will need to take it off the truck. I can't remember off the top of my head the tm but it is in one and has a good step by step. I think I posted some pic's of one of mine a few years back.

 

[gimpyrobb]

If memory serves correct, this was a good thread:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?80417-Winch-Teardown-Q&highlight=

 

[ralph3162]

I have rebuilt the Garwood winch that is installed on my Deuce. I did not use a TM to do it. I did it by seat of my pants, actually very simple to do. One issue will be the removal of the two key stocks in the shaft to get the drum off they are a real bear. I finally took it to a machine shop to get them out but once out the rebuild is quick and easy took only about an hour to replace seals and reassemble.

 

[orrisd4]

thanks gimpy , that actually helps a LOT.

 

[gimpyrobb]

No prob, happy to help.

 

[NDT]

If it were me I would flush the water side with diesel and then fill both sides with the recommended cornhead grease and call it done.

 

[Wildchild467]

Something I never understood about deuce winches is they did not have vents. Now the M35A3 winches had a vent/vents. I think lack of a vent sometimes is a lot of the reason some of them leak sometimes. My winch was overhauled by Uncle Sam in '94 I believe.

 

[74M35A2]

Something I never understood about deuce winches is they did not have vents. Now the M35A3 winches had a vent/vents. I think lack of a vent sometimes is a lot of the reason some of them leak sometimes. My winch was overhauled by Uncle Sam in '94 I believe.

It was likely a water intrusion concern. At the time, the likelihood of water entering the oil with a vent was higher than the gear oil getting warm enough to need venting. We go through the same issue today regarding vehicle ECU's we manufacture. Different OEM's have different takes on venting vs not, and the dance between water intrusion vs 0 pressure differential. Today, you can use a Gortex type material to allow vapor venting yet block water. That was not available back then.

 

[rchalmers3]

I rebuilt one without pulling the bumper. I disconnected the drive shaft and removed those special, shouldered bolts securing the winch to the brackets and cherry picked it out. Going back, I did have to use a Hi-lift jack to spread the frame a little.

The one I was working on had a sheared shifting shaft in addition to water intrusion. It was an easy fix with the correct parts and seals.

Contact George Kivett at White Owl Truck parts for your missing brake parts and seal kit.

Rick