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Diagnostic Plug Under Dash?

NovacaineFix

Member
662
1
18
Location
San Diego, California
Can you post a pic of the plug before cutting it, shouldn't be any diagnostic plug under the dash at all, none that I know of anyway.

The only plugs that may and should be under the dash without anything connected to it would be the door buzzer and the something else along that way, I forget what the other is, but post a pic before cutting, just in case.
 

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
13,775
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63
Location
OKC, OK
If and when you sell the truck the new owner may want to put the STE/ICE diagnostic port back. No need to cut it off.

Most members do not have a STE/ICE diagnostic unit but a few of us do. There a many members that want their trucks stock. And the STE/ICE post is a stock item.
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
4,524
811
113
Location
Virginia
I'm with Warthog on this one. I'm not a purist on these trucks at all, but it's just too much work to rip that thing out, and it could very well hurt the resale value.

Unloose it from its mount, and zip tie it up out of the way. There's plenty of room up there.
 

NovacaineFix

Member
662
1
18
Location
San Diego, California
Ahh, that port. I really never considered that a serviceable diagnostic port as most of us do not have access to the equipment that connects to it, some may, but not the majority.

I was thinking that his truck and the connector he was referring to was the factory ALDL port like this:
carconnector.jpg

To my knowledge, and I could be wrong, there is none on the CUCV's, unless they are from later than '86 year contract trucks, even then with military trucks they'll may not be one due to military specs. Please correct me if I am wrong.
I know on the newer CUCV's, like the 2014's there will be a OBD II connector as it was implemented and standardized on all makes and models back in 1996. If that's the case it would have a 16 pin connector and I would NOT cut or remove that.

I'm with MarcusOReallyus on just unscrewing it and zip tying it up somewhere under the dash.

Old OBD I:

carconnector.jpg

Newer OBD II:

OBD-II.jpg

The STE/ICE Diagnostic port:

download.jpeg
 

Brogman

Member
102
3
18
Location
Noblesville, Indiana
It's loose under the dash, all the yellow wires are already cut, I don't care about it being there I was planning on cutting it and keeping it if someone wanted to reconnect it. Just didn't want to mess something up.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,291
9,688
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Just go under the hood and disconnect the plug. It is not needed. I have 2 dozen of them that I removed. The bracket is the exact size for a standard 2 1/16" gauge. I hope that helps. But I would not cut the wires. Just unplug it and fish the plug thru the hole in the firewall.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,291
9,688
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Just unplug it under the hood and work the wire connection towards the inside of the cab. It is tight but it will fit. Just cover the hole with a grommet of padded tape. Happy Holidays and be patient. It fits with no cutting. Or just cut the wires off both ends and let the grommet in place.
 

harleyboy1

Member
51
0
6
Location
Lake City, Fl.
I'm heading out to the shop to give it a try. The owner has everything under the sun installed on this M1009. Stereo, cruse control, indash air condition and keep finding more, so room is tight.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,291
9,688
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Cutting and removing is an option. And if it is that heavily modified. That seems to be the easiest option. Disconnect it from the under hood harness engine side and cut the wires at the grommet it will pull right through. The bracket with the cannon plug removed makes a perfect gauge bracket. Good Luck And Happy Holidays.
 

harleyboy1

Member
51
0
6
Location
Lake City, Fl.
Reply To Post

M1009 Blazer 010.jpgM1009 Blazer 009.jpgM1009 Blazer 008.jpgRemoving the harness came out like you said. I pulled from the outside to get the grommet to pull out. Then cut harness on back side of grommet. I did it this way because the aftermarket a/c box was almost touching inside firewall. Pulled the grommet off and took a hack saw and cut the nipples off. Filled hole with rvt and installed in reverse position. Thanks for your help....
 

Attachments

Last edited:
71
2
8
Location
Atlanta, GA
The dash Carrier unit and firewall are empty by comparison to most vehicles even those of the same era. Should be pretty simple. I agree with cucvrus, it disconnects nice and easy. Nothing special. The rubber grommet pushes out with an easy finger push. Just don't cut ur fingers on the firewall when it does push thru. Oh and push the grommet from the engine bay into the cab.
 
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