Diesel fuel degradation

[maniatopoulosg]

A while back we all where talking about storage about long term fully fueled storage
we also touched on the subject of fuel going bad
But I guess not enough
My fuel has biologicals in it algae/fungus nasty red film that does not come off metal or plastic
Generator is in garage fully fueled but I live in South Florida so it’s hot and humid in garage
I’m About to spend a couple of bucks on biocides
Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated
How do you guys deal with this


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[Ray70]

I've only used PRI-D and haven't had any issues, but I'm in New England....
I can say for sure that new low sulfur fuel seems to be no where near as good for long term storage as older stuff, but other than additives there probably isn't any way around it.

 

[Zed254]

I use both Pri-D and Biobor JF.

 

[Coug]

Personally for diesel I use BIO KLEEN for Biocide, but mostly because it's available at all the local farm supply stores.

Bio Kleen Diesel Fuel Biocide Treatment

This dual-phased biocide kills microbes in fuel, including bacteria and fungus. Use this to rid your diesel fuel system of microbial contamination.

powerservice.com

For storage I like to use Star Tron enzyme fuel treatment. It will even work on fuel that is turning stale to rejuvenate it and make it useable.

Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment Diesel Additive

Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment is a multi-functional fuel additive that uses enzyme technology to stabilize fuel and make engines run smoothly and efficiently.

www.starbrite.com

They also have a fuel tank cleaner that would clear out that film you are talking about having on everything, though you'll definitely want some extra fuel filters on hand because all the gunk it cleans off has to go somewhere.

Star Tron Tank Cleaner

Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Tank Cleaner uses enzyme technology to clean the fuel system and make engines run smoothly and efficiently.

www.starbrite.com

 

[MrShawn305]

You live in South Florida. You should know this. Get a marine grade biocide diesel fuel supplement and call it a day. The humidity down there is no different on land as it is on the water. The same stuff people run on their diesel powered boats is the same stuff you should be running. Worst case scenario (cost wise), hit up West Marine and get a diesel fuel treatment.

 

[Chainbreaker]

After trying many concoctions, I have switched over to Biobor JF 32 oz size and Optilube XPD in gallon jug. So far after 1 yr of using it, that combo seems to be working well during Oregon's high humidity rainy winters coupled with hot 90+ degree summers.

Edit: Regardless, I don't like to store fuel more than 2 yrs in any tank that is vented, sealed Jerry cans can go longer. It's a bit of a pain but I like to pump fuel out of my genset aux tanks and use in my Kubota tractor & Kubota diesel lawn mower & then top off generator aux tanks just before winter months. The day tanks get replenished due to monthly exercise runs via the aux tank.

Would be nice if there were "dip strips" you could use to test diesel fuel with. A way to let you know when to replenish additives or if there are microbes growing in it. Similar concept to the test strips use for testing water quality in spa's & pools.

 

[Dieselmeister]

Biobor and PRI-D. Shop around for the lowest prices. I was in a hurry and went to a West Marine $$$.
I also recommend somehow circulating your fuel to get the biobor and PRI-D mixed in well.
Biocides don't remove any sludge / contaminants; they only kill anything and everything that grows in the water / fuel interface at the bottom of your tank.
If you can, run the contaminated fuel through an external filter, or as a minimum, use a water separating funnel to get the sludge out.
Algea and bio sludge can get thick enough to plug the filters on your equipment (personal experience).
I made up a small fuel polishing rig with an aftermarket Airtex fuel pump, and small Parker fuel filter/water separator I bought off the big E site to clean my stored fuel.

 

[cuad4u]

I live in SC. It gets hot here too. I have two diesel tanks. One is 300 gallons and the other one is 600 gallons. I buy diesel when the price is low. I am a tree farmer with five old diesel tractors, a backhoe, a bulldozer, and four MEP generators. I use around 200 gallons of diesel every year, so much of my diesel is "old". I add a bio-fungus killing agent (bio-cide) about twice a year. It costs around $35 and treats up to 1000 gallons. This is NOT fuel stabilizer. It is fungus preventing and fungus killing. It is MUCH better to add the bio- cide BEFORE fungus starts. On the bottom of each diesel tank is a drain and a valve. Several times a year I crack open each valve to drain any crud out of the bottom of each tank. Yes I catch the crud in a container. By adding the bio-cide before fungus starts, I have never had any crud come out of the bottom of the tanks when I open the valves. I have a filter on the diesel pump that strains any crud out of the fuel before I add it in tractors or generators. I change the filter element when needed. I have never had a problem with "stale" diesel fuel. I imagine some of my diesel fuel has been in the tanks for more than 5 years.

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,
It really depends on how bad the algae is...
You might be better off transferring to another container and polishing first.
The biocides are great, but if the fuel itself is to far gone, you need to clean it up some even for the chemicals to work.