jimmr
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that's encouraging, looks like everyone is closed monday, Doesn't anyone want to make money? hahahah
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
diesel in crankcase
- Thread starter jimmr
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- Monrovia, Ca.
PNW is a large area. Might help if you edit your location to narrow things down a bit. Maybe someone is close and cam lend a hand. If you need help. PM me and we can work out that bug.
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- Jefferson, Massachusetts
Also don't get to reminisce to much on steam but back in the 90's I was working on museum steam engines. Rebuilding and documenting some of Mystic Seaports recips. Which got me in to diesels...there back on topic.
jimmr
Member
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- Hells Canyon, ID-OR border
ok, i'll try to figure out how to edit my profile
jimmr
Member
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- Hells Canyon, ID-OR border
ok, i did get some stuff changed on my profile, couldn't upload a photo ..... yet. probably need to update my wants list, it's extensive !!!
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- Monrovia, Ca.
To ad a picture to your profile, when you are logged in, click on your name at the top rh of the page. A drop down box opens, click on "account details" From there you can add a picture or your avitar. Family friendly please! We have had people upload some interesting images!
jimmr
Member
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- Hells Canyon, ID-OR border
trying to get a photo of my original S3 88 but no go yet. won't be any bs photo. I got a SS e mail saying that i've been tagged? i don't know
what that means?
what that means?
jimmr
Member
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- Hells Canyon, ID-OR border
The local military store (125 miles out) has a guy who rebuilds the FO pump for the NHC250 cummins so i am heading over there this coming week to remove it. I was hoping one of you may know what 'special' tools I may need other than end wrenches, tubing wrenches, hammers and vice grips!,
I assume once the housing is unbolted it just pulls away from the air pump? If this engine runs I will buy a TM for maintenance.
I assume once the housing is unbolted it just pulls away from the air pump? If this engine runs I will buy a TM for maintenance.
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No hammers or vice grips. 3/8 wrench, 1/2 inch line wrench, 1/2 inch open end, 1 inch wrench, maybe a 7/8 for back up on the inlet fitting, 5/8 wrench, 5/8 half moon wrench, pliers for the tach drive....might be a 1 inch depending on the cable....7/16 open/box, 9/16 wrench and MAYBE a 7/16 half moon depending on if the upper inside mounting bolt is a 12 point fastener. And maybe a 7/16 line wrench depending on the gear pump return line.
Bring rust penetrant and hit the fuel outlet line and return line before you start turning things. Leave the upper outside bolt in it until all the other stuff is removed.
Bring rust penetrant and hit the fuel outlet line and return line before you start turning things. Leave the upper outside bolt in it until all the other stuff is removed.
jimmr
Member
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- Hells Canyon, ID-OR border
great, got it, much thx, I would of missed that half moon up against the block. the hammer and vice grips was a joke !!
I was wondering if there was a hex, (allen) on the shaft to the airpump somewhere though I couldn't figure out how it'd be. (or why)
I was wondering if there was a hex, (allen) on the shaft to the airpump somewhere though I couldn't figure out how it'd be. (or why)
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No, nothing to hold, time, etc. The F/P is direct driven from the cam gear through the compressor. No sealant on the gasket when assembling. The oil there is direct return to the sump. Silicone can make it's way back into the pan and get sucked up onto the pick up. Just use a dab of grease to tack the gasket on the pump when assembling.
jimmr
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- Hells Canyon, ID-OR border
good, have a fresh foot of snow here this morning, I plan on going over there wed/thur and was thinking of removing a valve cover (hot engine end) and having a look at the 'O' rings on a couple 2 or 3 injectors. Is this plausible or should I just wait till I rotate the engine and observe injectors for fuel leaks? I wondered whether I could tell by looking if there was a fresh 'wash' of lube oil around the injector (from diesel) in the head but i've never looked at a 250 cummins before and figure to stick to the plan ... take pump to the shop and ""go from there"".
I sure am appreciating the resources here and your help Will. There is a lot to learn about this forum as it has so many categories but I'll probably just stick to a couple of them.
I sure am appreciating the resources here and your help Will. There is a lot to learn about this forum as it has so many categories but I'll probably just stick to a couple of them.
- 8,539
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- Monrovia, Ca.
You won't be able to see anything. The hold downs cover them up pretty good, Only way to check them is to pull them, then you are just gonna replace them anyway and look for cracks between the injector bore and the hold down bolts.
Just do the pump first, give it an oil change and see what happens.
Just do the pump first, give it an oil change and see what happens.
jimmr
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- Hells Canyon, ID-OR border
thanks for that, it's mid winter and contemplating getting batteries in there, purge the fuel system, drain the air compressor case and oil filters and on and on before cranking to watch for leaks under the valve cover ............... well............ i'll do the pump as you say. we have a fresh foot of snow and still coming down and too cool to get very involved !! I hope the actuators for those injectors are like cat and come from straight off the cam and up but the valve cover is kinda high and i'm suspecting a rocker assy. has to be undone to pull a injector out? like a detroit?
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No actuators, purely mechanical. No purging of the fuel system, it is a positive displacement system and will fire after a bit of cranking. No compressor case to drain, it is all gravity feed back to the front cover and down into the sump. No need to remove the rockers, simply remove the injector adjuster, slide the pushtube to the side, flop the lever back, pull the link, hold down bolts, hold down and use a heel bar to take the injector out. No lines.
If you have adjusted the overhead on a driptroit or CAT, you can most likely handle one of these. Just do the pump first, it is the least complicated but more expensive thing to do.
Have you heard this run? The reason I ask is that if it has a dead miss, smoking cottonball white, that COULD be your fuel in the oil cause too.
Guess that makes 4 reasons for dilution!
If you have adjusted the overhead on a driptroit or CAT, you can most likely handle one of these. Just do the pump first, it is the least complicated but more expensive thing to do.
Have you heard this run? The reason I ask is that if it has a dead miss, smoking cottonball white, that COULD be your fuel in the oil cause too.
Guess that makes 4 reasons for dilution!
jimmr
Member
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- Hells Canyon, ID-OR border
It hasn't run for 2 years and i suspect it may be 2-1/2. owner says he did not see the stack smoking anything unusual, (black or white) when the engine shut down and by description was running out of fuel? I have not heard this run. I failed to look in the radiator for oil when I was there last.
looking at the compressor i see a drain plug in the bottom and figured there may be diesel accumulation in there as it must be a inch or two deep for the crank and would drain it along with the oil filters.
By purging the fuel system i mean i'd assure there is a good flow from the fuel tank using a vacuum tank i have.
I hope the injector adjuster maintains its setting when i remove it if i find the 'O' rings leak?
looking at the compressor i see a drain plug in the bottom and figured there may be diesel accumulation in there as it must be a inch or two deep for the crank and would drain it along with the oil filters.
By purging the fuel system i mean i'd assure there is a good flow from the fuel tank using a vacuum tank i have.
I hope the injector adjuster maintains its setting when i remove it if i find the 'O' rings leak?
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It's been a hot minute, but as far as I remember, there is no drain, plug, device, what so ever on the air compressor of any compressor, on a Cummins anywho.
Yes, you will disturb the injector adjustment when you remove the screw. IMHO, I would leave that to someone experienced. From my end, seems like you will incur a giant problem if you start messing with complicated things. Right now, you are guessing at an issue and attempting to diagnose it thru the interwebs. Could be anything, something simple, to an experienced person, or something no so simple.
How are you remembering this if you are 100+ miles away? Pics? Post them up.
Yes, you will disturb the injector adjustment when you remove the screw. IMHO, I would leave that to someone experienced. From my end, seems like you will incur a giant problem if you start messing with complicated things. Right now, you are guessing at an issue and attempting to diagnose it thru the interwebs. Could be anything, something simple, to an experienced person, or something no so simple.
How are you remembering this if you are 100+ miles away? Pics? Post them up.
jimmr
Member
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- Hells Canyon, ID-OR border
will send pics when i get another batch. I have done injectors on cat, emd, detroit and something else so i'll persevere with this as well.
yes, I am sort of guessing but as it is cold iron I only have the owners story to go by. So, I'll get a good fuel pump in there and then prep the engine for rotation at which time we'll see the ''rest of the story''! till then i'll do as he suspects and then see what happens. I am actually
pretty fair at diagnosing fuel supply issues but walking up to cold iron, mid-winter isn't most condusive.
yes, I am sort of guessing but as it is cold iron I only have the owners story to go by. So, I'll get a good fuel pump in there and then prep the engine for rotation at which time we'll see the ''rest of the story''! till then i'll do as he suspects and then see what happens. I am actually
pretty fair at diagnosing fuel supply issues but walking up to cold iron, mid-winter isn't most condusive.
jimmr
Member
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- Hells Canyon, ID-OR border
on the tm diagrams the compressor and FO pump housing have "plug, pipe" on the bottom though it isn't clear what the purpose is! I just ass-sumed i'd be able to drain the air compressor housing, that or i will suck the contaminated oil out of there as it has to have a bit of 'resevour' in there for splash on the cylinder walls. true, it'll eventually dissipate but i'll suck it out if possible.
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Just saw this. The pipe plugs are on the bottom of the FP main housing. They are there to add accessories, like a high idle governor, that require fuel. There is just gear pump fed fuel behind those plugs, no need to drain from them. Have you had the pump looked at yet?