• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Disconnecting Battery of MEP-002A or MEP-003A While Running: Damage?

Triple Jim

Well-known member
1,376
291
83
Location
North Carolina
Any update
Yes, I have one in my own 003A and a member here has a Beta unit in his 002A. We're getting quite a few hours on them between the two of us, running both with and without a battery connected, and they're working as planned.

I have parts for two more, and will put them together shortly. Parts have been ordered for ten after that. I don't want to break the rules and appear to be selling them in this thread, so I'll try to get a classified ad put together soon. If someone needs one before that, please send a PM.
 

CDR

New member
325
3
0
Location
new york
Yes, I have one in my own 003A and a member here has a Beta unit in his 002A. We're getting quite a few hours on them between the two of us, running both with and without a battery connected, and they're working as planned.

I have parts for two more, and will put them together shortly. Parts have been ordered for ten after that. I don't want to break the rules and appear to be selling them in this thread, so I'll try to get a classified ad put together soon. If someone needs one before that, please send a PM.
Please let us know in this tread when they are ready I don't think that will break any rules
 

Triple Jim

Well-known member
1,376
291
83
Location
North Carolina
I thought I was done, but the temperature compensation came out a bit differently from my 12V version, so I'm going to change a couple things. I hope to have it ready by the end of the week.
 

Triple Jim

Well-known member
1,376
291
83
Location
North Carolina
The 24VDC regulators are now available. I put a lot of time and effort into getting good temperature compensation, and am happy with the way it turned out. The set voltage now follows what lead-acid batteries want to see, with the charge voltage being higher in cold weather and lower in hot weather. At 25°C (77°F) it's set to 28.4 volts. As far as price, I did the best I could. I build them myself, and there's a fair amount of work in putting one together. The components are high quality and come from reputable industrial suppliers. As I mentioned above, I've been making a 12V version of this regulator for several years, and it's proven to be very reliable.

I updated my classified ad to include this regulator. I have parts to build them, so if anyone is interested please let me know. Thanks for the help and advice all of you gave me in this thread.
 

dangier

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
341
7
18
Location
Orange, VA
I did the beta testing on Triple Jim's dcvr on one of my 002A's. Needless to say, I am thoroughly impressed. The unit is configured to drop in with 3 nuts, 3 wire screw connections and two solder connections as stated. I had it installed in 15 minutes and running shortly thereafter. I ran the 002A a total of 28.5 hours. 9.75 hours were running without a battery. Just connect booster cables and start. Once running pull cables and everything stays on (insure positive batt connections insulated if no battery installed). I tested various 24 volt battery combinations (275 CCA to 750 CCA), in all states of charge. Each time battery circuit came up to 28.4 to 28.9 depending on ambient temperature. The monitor LED lights up when the regulator is starting to control. The LED status can be seen by opening the cover over the fuel shutoff while in operation. I will be equipping my most used units with this dcvr.
David
 

Triple Jim

Well-known member
1,376
291
83
Location
North Carolina
No, it's a shunt design with a HexFET, which is a type of MOSFET. It's not always a good idea to go with a pass type regulator with a permanent magnet alternator, because when the circuit is opened, the stator can see voltages higher than it was designed for. If it's suddenly and repeatedly opened as with a PWM regulator, voltages could get very high.
 

steelypip

Active member
769
68
28
Location
Charlottesville, VA
True. You basically trade off higher heat load on the stator for higher voltage in the windings. If your concern is overheating the stator then (see Ducati) then you want series, if your concern is the quality of the enamel on the windings, then you want shunt.

I was just thinking that, given how often the stock part dies, a series regulator would survive things like jump starting better.
 

Triple Jim

Well-known member
1,376
291
83
Location
North Carolina
I don't expect any problems with this regulator. The HexFET is rated at 64 amps, with an on-state resistance of 0.016 ohm maximum, and the Schottky diodes in the rectifier section are rated at 30 amps. The fuse will blow long before the regulator is damaged.

Permanent magnet alternators don't necessarily get hotter with their output shorted. I haven't done a lot of testing with the one in the 002A and 003A, but the motor driven PM alternator from a motorcycle that I have on my test bench actually requires less power to drive and produces less heat when continuously shorted than it does when producing its rated output current.
 
Last edited:

Speddmon

Blind squirrel rehabiltator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,640
28
38
Location
Cambridge, Ohio
Received my 2 regulators today in the mail. Man they look great!!!! As soon as I get some free time and the temp gets back above zero I'm going to try to get them put in.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks