DISCUSSION - Slobbering Multifuel Cure?

[houdel]

I've seen it said the stock fan pulls 13 HP, seems a bit high to me though, on a truck with only 130-140 net HP to begin with. If it DOES take anywheres in the range of 10-13 HP, that's going to make a measureable difference in MPG. Ernie - any idea how much current your fan draws when running on high speed?

 

[SasquatchSanta]

I can take a voltage reading tomorrow. Currently all I know is a 40 amp fuse handles the circuit

I feel the truck has a lot more noticable power when you shower down on it.

I made another 40 mile run today. Except for when I was in town and therefore running below 40 MPH the fan stayed off. Temp stayed at 190 degrees and the Spal (fan) took it down to 180 while parked. Ambient temp was 77.

I did a chase car speed check today. With the 395/85s I'm running RPM 2200 @ 55 MPH. I wish I had another 100 RPM to play with. Anyway, I'm going to do some serious mileage testing

 

[jimk]

My new Commercial Mack Vision (EM7-315 - I think) has a big clutch fan(something new for 06').Climbing hills it always come on at speed.At high RPM(1700) the HP drain is incredible.Much less at lower speeds,(1200rpm).It can slows the rig down 5MPH.Probably 20-40HP.Under no load it acts like a 2000rpm governer.It is very loud.I am amazed it stays together.JimK

 

[jimk]

Slow idle speed best till oil pressure is up. Maybe 15 seconds.

Anytime the period longer is longer than a minute or two and the idle speed should be raised with the hand throttle to 1000rpm-1200rpm. This is because the cylinder walls and camshaft are lubricated only by splash and thrown oil. At 500-600 they may not get any lube.After an extended period they can run dry. This can causing accelerated wear or even damage [like losing a cam lobe].This applies to many types of engines (V8's autos are vulnerable).

There is a notice to do this on the visor of all commercial Mack trucks.

JimK

 

[SasquatchSanta]

I've seen it said the stock fan pulls 13 HP, seems a bit high to me though, on a truck with only 130-140 net HP to begin with. If it DOES take anywheres in the range of 10-13 HP, that's going to make a measureable difference in MPG. Ernie - any idea how much current your fan draws when running on high speed?

Lee --- I spoke with Spal USA. The 24V fan pulls 9.6 amps.

I don't know where I got the 40 amp number. I guess the 60s were good to me --- I seem to have lost a lot of brain cells somewhere along the way.

 

[Squirt-Truck]

Glad to see ya'll looking at electric fans for the trucks. Why not put the fan on the engine side? Then the truck looks stock.
They work great, much less noise, more power, less pump bearing wear. Yes, better warm up time also...

 

[TBigLug]

I don't have a truck to look at here, but I was wondering the same thing as squirttruck. Is there not enough room between the radiator and engine? Seems like if the stock fan is that big and cumbersome you'd have some real room to work with.

 

[cranetruck]

Not much room between the hub and the radiator. About 2 inches max.
Four each 8" fans could be located around the hub, though.
The current draw will be a factor, add it up and check your generator/alternator capacity....

 

[TBigLug]

How is the charging system on these trucks? Do they usually take well to aftermarket acc. (lights, fans, etc.)?

 

[Westech]

FSBruva: "I am just curious how I can prevent the slobber when I have to let it idle for 20 minutes to get warm in the winter. "

Matt, how warm does it get after 20 minutes in the winter time? I know Squirt-Truck firmly believes that I have a cooling problem, but that aside, in the winter at say 20F, my engine will never reach op temp w/o a radiator cover. Even with it I need to keep the rpm at 1,000 or more to warm it up. Another question, Matt, if you wipe the engine clean before starting it, will it always produce a noticable slobber?
At Kenny's , last Feb, we pressure washed parts of the truck, my effort to clean the engine was halfhearted and some oil was left on it, so I can't really tell how much new slobber is produced after a run. The engine is always a bit oily. I just don't worry much about it. You have a good point, though. I'll try to find the note on the "vent" holes.

I know Im coming in late on this but I will have to side with BJ on this one. I have flushed and cleaned the radiator and engine of my Deuce along with a new t-stat and the only time my truck ever got to 200* was when it was well over 100* and my fan was broken off. The Deuce has a very large cooling system for the size and power of that engine, When everything is in good working order you should never be able to over heat that engine. I too try to run with a cover on the front as much as I can, seams the engine runs better and gets better MPG'S when it is hot (180*+)
As the slober goes mine does do a really good job at that. I do have the new head gaskets in and yes I had the heads shaved, and mine just pukes all the time. I see it most after a hard 300 mile full speed trip, and RPM'S of atleast 2500 for hours at a time. Does not seam that anything bad is going on, no clicking, banging, ect.. just leaks. Now my friends 5 ton (locda57) is dry as a bone. No leaks of any kind I mean dry dry, and his truck was really worked over before he got it.
I know I have trashed the Multi Fuel many times, and yes it has never let me down. But the thing that really bothers me is that every Multi is different. Nothing the same, one will leak here, one wont. One will make this noise and one wont. One will get over 10 mpg and the other one cant get 5. Just cant fully trust a engine that is all over the board.
Thats my 2 and have a good night.

 

[clinto]

Mine barely creeps above 170°. I had about 5K lbs in the back once and was in the mountains, running full throttle up the hills , ending up all the way down in third gear and it barely got any hotter,maybe 10/15°.