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Diy steering box brace

Shankem-Deep

Member
246
16
18
Location
Ada, Oklahoma
Here's some pix of the steering brace I finished today for my M1009. I used the stock bushings on the steering box bolts to weld the pieces to. First made cardboard cutouts of the 3 pieces for the main brace, tack welded it together in place, then removed, finish-welded and painted it. Note that one bushing is on EACH side of the large end, this allows the main-web to be vertical.
The small brace infront of the crossmember is a section of L-channel (vertical part welded to bushing is hard to see, so it's circled). I then welded it to the corner brace, so the whole assembly can still be unbolted. I think this small brace (left out in Shankem's original build) is important to prevent thrust-load on the front steering box bolt.
Looks good man!! I haven't had any problem with mine since I put my brace in. I think I will look into adding that little extra that you did though. I'm all about making it beefy as possible! Thanks for posting it!
 
367
0
18
Location
Castalian Springs, TN
Ive broken 3 Steering gearbox houses so far, ( keep breaking mounting tabs completely off, with only the gearbox being supported by input shaft and power steering lines...) And thats with the ORD steering brace already installed. Going back with the ORD frame repair/upgrade kit ( Plate Steel )and switching over to hyrdo assist. Total cost is a lil over 500.00 with shipping from West Texas Offroad ( red neck ram ) and ORD. I am of coarse running recentered H1's with outer rock rings and PVC inserts and 37" BFG so my wheel/tire combo is alot heaver than most. Will add pics, once parts arrive and i start installing.
 
Last edited:

kapnklug

Member
230
1
18
Location
spencer,ny
Hey 1TonCUCV,
you mention PVC inserts in your rims, what is that, some kind of run-flat device?
If you're breaking the mounting tabs off the steering box, maybe welding a little triangle from the side of each tab to the body of the gearbox would keep it together...
 
367
0
18
Location
Castalian Springs, TN
Yes.. the PVC inserts i picked up from trail Fab Worthy. it was just easier and they are lighter than the rubber run flats. I didn’t not want to contend with cutting the ribs of the MV rubber runflats.

When off on a trail, I will air down the tires. 15Psi in front and 10 Psi in rear for stability and traction. With the MV run flats, the ribs, over time will destroy the tire from within from running low air pressure, with the PVC inserts- no ribs to rub on inside of tire Still gives the ability as a double bead lock.
I picked this frame repair/upgrade kit from ORD. its it to be welded to frame, its already cut, pressed and drilled to fit frame snug and will greatly stiffen the frame channel by steering gearbox.
All that, and having the 4th Steering gearbox drilled, ported and tap'd for hydraulic lines, and putting a hydro ram in place of the steering stabilizer. This will move the force of steering to better mounting points and add roughly up to 2000 lbs of pressure( or so, I’ve been told…), to assist the factory power steering and making the whole system stronger, more reliable, and safe. And hopefully no more broken steering gear boxes. You have no idea how hard it is to limp it back off trail 5 miles with no steering..lol

I just recently found this site, and have added a build thread here, I haven’t posted much details, but will take plenty of pics and add here, once I can get started installing the above mentioned parts. Please note, 2 pictures posted were pulled from Trail Fab, i want to ensure, credit is given.
 

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