Does 5 ton lower door bracket "plate" come out?

[SandBar]

So the PO of my M51a2 snapped the drivers door off somehow. This left behind nice short bolts in the lower door hing "plate". This "plate" has 4 bolt holes and I have sadly only been able to get 2 of the bolt remnants out.

The plate moves around , is it meant to come out somewhere for replacement? Is this piece even available for sale? Thanks, trying not to lose all my marbles trying to salvage this plate which looks to already have at least one wore out bolt hole.

 

[jasonjc]

To get that out you would have to cut a hole in the side of the truck. It would be easier to get the bolts out. Unless someone knows more than me , and I hope they do because I need to do the same thing to one of my trucks

 

[eric67camino]

If you have a couple out already, run some new bolts and washers in, and tighten them down. Might clamp the plate in place enough that you can fight it without chasing it around.

 

[Recovry4x4]

They are 3/8 bolts. Once you tighten that plate down, you might try welding a 5/16 washer on top of the broken bolt then weld a nut to that. The heat cycle should help free it up.

 

[SandBar]

I have 2 out and a 3rd drilled about as far as I dare. I will try putting some fasteners in to bring it forward and steady it up. Thanks for the advice, I a close to being able to put the door in at last.

 

[Recovry4x4]

I have 2 out and a 3rd drilled about as far as I dare. I will try putting some fasteners in to bring it forward and steady it up. Thanks for the advice, I a close to being able to put the door in at last.

With that said, doors are largely overrated.

 

[charlesmann]

X2 on installing bolts to tighten it up to get the other 2 out and using welding heat to help break them free. Even using a propane torch to warm them up, then spraying them with PB Blaster, or Knock'er loose spray several times, then weld on the washer and nut, then spray again. When you weld the nut to the washer, weld inside the nut. There is also a tool out called an "old man", then connects to a rivet gun or air hammer, with a handle on it and a apex bit drive, that you can put an adapter on it for a socket, and it allows you to hammer on the tool and apply turning pressure to help bust corrosion loose from the hammering action, while still turning or trying to turn the fastener with minimal lbs of force. Unlike an impact wrench that just pounds away and turns with a good bit of force, causing bolts to break.

Heat and beat with a soaking session and slight movement can go further than brut force.

We use the old man for stripped screws on our helicopter and it works miracles at times. But sometimes, some goon has stripped the cross tip or flat tip out so bad, even the old says get a drill.

here is a link to on old man, but they are available from multiple sources.

Short Screw Extractor/Screw Knocker/Old Man 4"

PN: 10119Stubby Screw Extractor, Screw Knocker, Old Man It's got plenty of names - "Old Man", "Screw Knocker", and "Woodpecker" - but this extractor gets results when loosening and removing corroded and over tightened screws and other fasteners. The extr

www.yardstore.com

 

[NY Tom]

I feel like there was a similar post recently.

Had same problem changing doors on my deuce. Used an impact driver but still broke way more than I wanted to. Driver side was pretty good. Passenger side was really bad.

Had to drill them out. Made the broken end flat with a dremel. Centerpunch it carefully in center. Drill thru with a small drill maybe 3/32. Drill bigger and bigger in small increments until close to the tap drill size. I thought they were 1/4-20 not 3/8. No matter which, they are what they are.

Then I used a small centerpunch and broke away the remaining threaded part of the old bolts. Worked well but took some time. No magic tricks, heat, penetrating oil worked for me on these. Threads sticking out past the plate on the inside were rusted too badly to remove even if I got them to turn.

Drill to tap drill size 13/64 if they are 1/4-20 and chip out the remainder. Clean up the holes with a tap and use new screws with antisieze.

You do not have to drill thru by the way. You can drill deep enough until you are past the thickness of the plate. Then after you have drilled bigger the thread sticking out behind the plate will break off when you hit it with a punch. Chip out the rest.

Good luck.