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I have seen that there is a housing cover that should also be checked for trueness between your oil cooler and oil filter housing.The C7 (in school bus and other higher mileage applications) is known for wanting very clean oil to the HEUI pump and cat supplies all replacement HEUI pumps with a new oil feed line that includes a serviceable cartridge filter. If you do some searching here on the forum I recently posted the part numbers to upgrade just the feed line since most of our FMVT engines are such low mileage that it's worth it to protect the HEUI pump IMO. It's about $200 in parts.
You should check that all your brackets for the compressor and hydraulic pump and alternator and whatever else is hanging off the drivetrain has the proper Nord Lock washers keeping it from backing out.
Agree. That's what I am trying to address first priority when I get the truck.. all the "show stoppers"The oil cooler fitment also applies to the 3116 and 3126. Of course if it is not correct it will tend to leak… Not as big a show-stopper as driveshaft vibrations shaking the engine accessories to failure…
Any large truck shop should be able to point you to someone who can service the driveshafts. Measuring installed vibration works, it is just tedious and time consuming. You also need to be able to set the structure being balanced up in such a way that it allows movement so you can measure the displacement. Then you need a way to consistently measure that displacement. I balanced a slow speed diesel generator this way by setting the whole frame on pipe rollers then measuring the vibration displacement with a dial indicator, while spining the crank and flywheel with an electric motor… then it was a matter of trial and error with clay weights. Like I said tedious and time consuming i just did an upright compressor using the accelerometer and an app in my IPad.In regards to driveshafts being balanced. This seems to be a huge issue especially Hawaiian loaded trucks.
I had watched a video on a vehicle that had axles propping tires up off the ground, as the engine was exercised and trans engaged it brought the wheels up to spinning at an equivalent top highway speed; there was a glass of water fitted with an L bracket and a high strength magnet to inspect the displacement of the water (shaking). Then the drive shaft was lightly touched with chalk. Then the chalk was inspected (after shutting engine off of course and the area that had the deepest chalk mark was equipped with two pipe clamps. The pipe clamps were spread out over multiple inspections to see which combination imparted the most balanced calming effect to the water.
This seemed very unscientific to me but I was going to research more into checking for true driveshafts. I ordered a drive shaft separate tool and was going to pull it and find someone to check it for runout at some machine shop and go from there.
any driveline shop that does a good bit of work with Big Rigs can check your driveshafts. These driveshafts happen to be made up of regular heavyduty truck parts. I'd say grab the yellow pages and look for one and call them.... but then I'd sound really old lol. Go by your local truck stop with a small shop and ask them for the local place they send driveshafts over too for repairs will be your best hint on where to take them.In regards to driveshafts being balanced. ....
ABSOLUTELY WITHOUT FAIL change to dual batteries with a 100a alt. Hell, I have the 260 alt and only run duals (the others are used as house batteries at the moment and only charge via shore power).I have what appears to be an A1-(R) sort of... from what I can tell. But the alternator states 100Amp.
Expedition Portal member has an Acela M1078 for sale. Acela has put 2- Group 8D batteries on this truck, in lieu of the (4) 6TL batteries.
What are the known tried and true modifications one should be looking at to ensure survival of the batteries etc? My batteries are MFR May of this year, 4 6TL.
In studying the cold cranking amps of the 8D and the size they are very comparable to the 6TL but are quite a bit cheaper. The Owner put a NOCO charger on his and hooked it to the Solar and shorepower so that when boondocking it will supplement excess power diverted to the battery or when docked it maintains.
I have seen Sean Pilsner's HMMV Alternator swap vid. Got me to thinking that perhaps I should address this sooner than later. But I am not 100% clear where to start or what the pioneers on here have done to address the low output alternator to large battery bank power debacle. I am looking for input.
If I had a true "A1R" shouldn't the Alternator be 200A output?
How do I determine exactly what route to take and what's the best fix? This truck expressed a desire to be converted into an Expedition Camper, with Motobike carrier, ski locker and surfboard so it could run the gambit of cold to hot environments...
I would say "drive it until the alt fails someday".How do I determine exactly what route to take and what's the best fix? This truck expressed a desire to be converted into an Expedition Camper, with Motobike carrier, ski locker and surfboard so it could run the gambit of cold to hot environments...