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Does this look like it will work?

poppop

Well-known member
2,316
39
48
Location
Brooklet, Ga
I think it looks great but as someone has said with it that high you have a great leverage effect. Theres nothing you can do about the receiver, but if it were mine I would use the space under the bumper to weld some braces on each side on a 45 angle to where it would just clear the bumper. The way it is now thats a lot of shear force on the welds at the right angle. A couple of braces would make it three times as strong.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,014
1,814
113
Location
GA Mountains
Rotorhead, There are many folks that bolt on a class 3 reciever onto the frame of the truck. Think the 73-87 chevy pickup ones are pretty close.
 

dmetalmiki

Well-known member
5,523
2,026
113
Location
London England
tow mod

I modified my deuce to enable a level tow with my G.P.W. this could facilitate a ball hitch too if required. pics from deks collection. as pee .s! I would (as sugested by others) "support from THE TOP" that hitch set up..(even AFTER swinging the lunette.) ALLOW FOR the unexpected. !!...((in fact on reflection I would have gone the route of Modifying the TRAILER ..as shown by one S.S. member.) ((chaplain))safe..straight..= PEACE OF MIND> ..good luck with project.
 

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spicergear

New member
2,307
26
0
Location
Millerstown, PA
RE: tow mod

Another thing that can be done is to flip the trailers drawbar over. If you notice it comes out then bends up and levels out again. Flipping that over can give maybe 4-5" drop. That takes a decent about of leverage away from the trailer and hitch on the trucks receiver. It's just a real big nut and hopefully...cotter pin. It's a tapered fit so it wedges in there pretty snug...like a ball joint connection. The best thing I've found is to back the nut off about 6 threads then put a nice big prybar behind it, give it a real good steady pull (or have someone else pull hard on it), THEN take a hand maul and whack the top of the area it is wedged into directly above it/it's taper. The prybar's pressure and the maul's shock ought to pop it out.
 
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