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Door hinge bolt problem

Tinwoodsman

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I started to lighten up my deuce today so I could get it into my shop. I will be removing the mirrors, soft top and structure, upper exhaust pipe and lowering the windshield.

I started with drivers side mirror and bracket. The lower door hinge bolt came out with no problem. I moved to the upper hinge bolt and came to a grinding halt. The bolt will not budge no matter how much I tried. Now I have a stripped bolt head and cut off the lower nut and shaft hoping I could drive it out from below. No dice. (PB blaster is not my friend)

Any suggestions on how to lick this problem?
 

doghead

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Get a bigger shop...
 

Recovry4x4

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These things can be a real pain in the backside. Heat, punch, drill, hammer repeat. I just replace the hinge. I don't know if they are still available but I've been using the ODI upgrade with stainless bolts and nylon bushings. Doors swing smooth and easy all the time.
 

flyxpl

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I have had the same problem . I would like to know where to get new bolts . I noticed most the replacement hinges I have seen have a pin instead of a bolt , which will not allow the mirror brackets to be bolted back on . Where did the ODI upgrade come from ? .
 

m16ty

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I've seen some tough ones but I've always been able to remove all the pins I've tried. The trick is heat.

What I do is heat the hinge with a torch while I've got a wrench on the head holding pressure on it (but not enough to break it or round the head off). When it gets hot enough you'll get a little movement on the wrench. Remove the heat and keep working the pin back and forth with the wrench. It will eventually free up enough to turn the wench fairly free. Then take a punch and drive it out. Most of the time I can even salvage the pin doing this.

Kenny, repalcing the hinge is an option but alot of times the hinge screws are frozen also.
 
Last edited:

roady

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your assumption is correct...

I just broke one myself today. I then had to heat it up and drive the broken piece out. I need a new bolt myself since my mirrors are bolted there as well. Does the ODI upgrade allow for this?
 

Tinwoodsman

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I could not find the OD Iron upgrade. I just used the proper length 7/16" bolt with coarse threads instead of fine. Seem to work okay.

I am puzzled at the hinges available with pins and not bolts. Surely these can hold the mirrors on since I cannot remember seeing a deuce without mirrors.
 

Recovry4x4

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Some of the hinge screws are phillips. I STRONGLY suggest that you don't start until you have one of those impact drivers that you whack with a BFH. Once the screw is destroyed, it becomes a major headache. I do have phillips bit for my 1/4" impact and although they work pretty decent, nothing like the impact driver.
 

Tinwoodsman

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I do have one of those puppies but I got to believe that Murphy will step in on one or more of the eight screws. I will try one tomorrow. Do you think I need to heat it or PB Blaster it first?
 

Recovry4x4

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I don't think the PB will be able to get to the threaded part until it's at least a little loose. Heat? Again, right next to the sheet metal, tough call. Please coat replacement screws with antiseize.
 

m16ty

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The hinge screws are accually threaded into a steel plate that is behind the cab sheet metal. This makes it almost impossible to apply heat where it's needed with the hinge in place.

I had trouble removing the hinge screws awhile back. If it doesn't want to come free, you're better off to cut the head off than you are to twist them off. If you cut the head off it will leave you a little screw sticking out (Sometimes when you twist them off they will break off flush). After you cut the head off and remove the hinge, you can apply some heat to the threads and then use a pair of vise-grips to grip the screw "stub" and turn it out.

When you go to replace the hinge, add a little anti-seize to the threads so they are easier to come out next time. ;-)
 
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