Drag Link tie rod replacment ..

[Chevybrit]

Hi Guys ..

i'm Tackling my sloppy steering and once it was jacked up and the wheels were off it was obvious that at least the
tie rod end that connects to the steering arm was very loose and moving the steering wheel it was contributing greatly to the
'slop'.
I've searched the term but i couldn't find a thread with pics to help and now that it takes aproxiamately 3 weeks to read through
'what have you done for you CUCV lately' i thought i'd start a new one.

First issue was the castle nut didn't seem to be on too tight and when i tried to remove it, it just spins???
How does one remove it ?? I'll have to resort to a cutting wheel unless there is a 'special way'?

Looking forward to the advice...

Thanks

 

[cucvrus]

Get a pickling fork and hammer it in there. It is a tie-rod fork. You can get them at an auto parts store. Or just burn the nut off and give the knuckle a hit with the hammer and the stud end of the tie-rod will fall right out. The have tie-rod pullers that will help get it off. but in this situation you will need to get the stud to not spin or bun or grind the nut off. Good luck. I would recommend replacing all the tie rod ends at one time along with the adjusting sleeves. I hope that helps.

 

[Chevybrit]

Thanks. i got it off with a G clamp and it allowed me to undo the nut completely ... They look to have been replaced the rubber boot after cleaning the excess grease off is good and the movement seems smooth not rough.. could it be that it was installed loose?

 

[cucvrus]

I doubt it. It should be tight and very difficult to turn. Without looking I would say it is worn out. It should NOT turn smooth. It should NOT turn it all. It is supposed to pivot under load NOT turn. A new one is very difficult to turn and I doubt that you can turn a new one. Good Luck. I wonder how the casting is that the tie-rod was attached to. If it spun in the casting of the knuckle it could have that worn also.

 

[Chevybrit]

I'm sorry i mean tilt etc.. i open the box and i can tilt the new one .. maybe not as easy but i can do it quite freely .. it also doesn't feel as smooth but maybe its because the new
one hasn't been pumped full of grease?
Here a vid of the movment..
http://vid384.photobucket.com/albums/oo281/DieselDino/IMG_5731_zpsinrxq1ez.mp4
i looked at the arm and the tapered socket looks ok, i have a feeling the PO did it when he lifted it and it had done hardly any mileage till i got it..
Testing the steering now feels very positive? Guess i won't really know until a test drive but i'd like to replace the sway bar bushes whilst its all open

 

[cucvrus]

That video shows wear in the pit-man arm and the tie-rod end. I would replace the tie-rod end and tighten it well. Lift kit? I am not a fan of lift kits so I am not a good guy to ask. But from watching the video you posted. I would suspect both parts are badly worn and need replacement. Try the tie rod end/drag link and tighten and check it again. Good Luck. report back. I know my Son has an M1009 with a lift kit and the kit included the arm on the left knuckle. I have a few of the cast arms from the knuckles.

 

[Chevybrit]

It all tightened up really nice? I'll take a vid in the morning when its light. I thought the pitman arm was attached to the steering gearbox, if so you can't see that end in the vid. The cast arms you mentioned, is that the curved one you can see? was your son's a modified one to reduce that angle?

 

[Chevybrit]

I think the vid shows the tapered shaft moving up and out due to the castle nut being loose, now its tightened down theres no more movement .. I'd be interested to know how often one replaces the tie rod ends and ball joints?

 

[cucvrus]

OK I called the steering arm gear (34P) a pitman arm. And yes my Son's has an angled steering arm gear (34P). I change the tie rod ends when they look like the ones in your video. I just go thru everything on these old trucks. I change the ball joints and all the steering linkage along with everything else that can be changed and is a known wear item. I do it up front once and done and it seems to be the key to having a good reliable, safe old CUCV. I think everything combined with all new parts is less then $250. And then get the front end lined up and you will be good for years to come. Better safe and done right the first time. I think if you just tighten the castle nut you are only putting more pull and pressure on an all ready worn tie rod end. You could put washers on it and make it even tighter. It is still worn out. Good Luck and Happy Holidays.

 

[Tinstar]

OK I called the steering arm gear (34P) a pitman arm. And yes my Son's has an angled steering arm gear (34P). I change the tie rod ends when they look like the ones in your video. I just go thru everything on these old trucks. I change the ball joints and all the steering linkage along with everything else that can be changed and is a known wear item. I do it up front once and done and it seems to be the key to having a good reliable, safe old CUCV. I think everything combined with all new parts is less then $250. And then get the front end lined up and you will be good for years to come. Better safe and done right the first time. I think if you just tighten the castle nut you are only putting more pull and pressure on an all ready worn tie rod end. You could put washers on it and make it even tighter. It is still worn out. Good Luck and Happy Holidays.

Agree

You're this far into it. Go ahead and replace what you can.

 

[ODFever]

My thread may help you.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?125140-M1009-Tie-Rod-End-Replacement-Project