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Drain coolant Qs

M

MAZ537

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Merry Christmas everyone !!!

I want to change the coolant (actually tap water) from my M1008 !
Last time I have it run for exactly 20 minutes and then I have open the radiator drain bolt to drain .
Can you please point me to the right direction guys ?

Thank you!
 
cucvrus

cucvrus

Well-known member
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I think you pretty well answered your own question. But you do know the block will still be full of water if that is all that is in it at this time. Good Luck. And Happy New Year to you.
 
M

MAZ537

Member
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Location
EU
Just an update after almost eight months !!!

My radiator is now leaking as I have put some vinegar with distilled water to have the system cleaned but I have leave for a long time inside...
After a long time I was able to source a NOS GM one!I have the old radiator removed but I have found a lot of rust inside (same goes for coolant hoses) and I am wonder if it is a better idea to put the old one back (leaking after 20 mins) and try to have the system flushed before the installation of the new one or to just install the new one and have then flushed the system several times with distilled water until clean before add new coolant?

Thank you very much guys!
 
Mullaney

Mullaney

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MarcusOReallyus said:
I think that's a good plan. Use a commercial radiator flush product and clean it all out with the old radiator and hoses. Then install your new gear. If it were me, I'd replace the hoses at the same time.
Click to expand...
.
For sure MarcusOReallyus !

Replacing hoses in the back yard - possibly under a shade tree - with a cool motor
is ever so much better than on the side of the highway in the boiling hot sun.
 
N

nyoffroad

Well-known member
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Rochester NY
MAZ537 said:
Update :

Moving slowly nicely , ordered so far :

Radiator isolators
Radiator drain petcock
Low level coolant sensor
Lower radiator hose

I hope to get them soon...


Thank you all for your help!
Click to expand...
Don't forget the upper rad hose, heater hoses and a thermostat! Do the all now or one at a time over the next few years. Also when removing the heater hoses from the heater core do NOT just twist them to break them loose! Doing so can cause leaks in the heater core. Instead of twisting them use a razor knife and slice lengthwise on the hose and peel the hose off the brass fitting. When installing any of the hose's try putting some Never-Sieze on the fitting and sliding the hose on, you will thank me years later when the hose slides right off.
 
M

MAZ537

Member
166
23
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Location
EU
nyoffroad said:
Don't forget the upper rad hose, heater hoses and a thermostat! Do the all now or one at a time over the next few years. Also when removing the heater hoses from the heater core do NOT just twist them to break them loose! Doing so can cause leaks in the heater core. Instead of twisting them use a razor knife and slice lengthwise on the hose and peel the hose off the brass fitting. When installing any of the hose's try putting some Never-Sieze on the fitting and sliding the hose on, you will thank me years later when the hose slides right off.
Click to expand...
Thank you very much for the great info ! I will get them as well!
 
M

MAZ537

Member
166
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18
Location
EU
Small update !

I am trying to install the drain petcock to my radiator (both are NOS GM) but it does not want to fit all the way in (I have put wd-40 at the threads as well) , after 4 or 5 full turns it stops...Is this normal ? It does not have sit flush ?

Thank you!
 
2INSANE

2INSANE

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Belgrade, Montana
Using gravity, it is impossible to fully flush out a 6.2 or 6.5 motor of its coolant and contaminants. The design of the coolant passages prevents this. Hence the common overheating problem.

You have to force flush it with pressure by creating an adapter of some sort to hook up to the motor with a hose.

I have found that the best way of flushing a motor without an adapter is by removing the two rear coolant port passage plates and force flush with a garden hose. This method has been the most effective way.

Another way to flush the motor is by taking out the center freeze plugs and force flushing.

Flushing just the radiator is not going to help much because of all the old coolant and contaminants still left in the motor block. If you do not flush both motor and radiator at the same time and only flush one or the other, all you are doing is recontaminating both.

You would be extremely surprised how much gunk is sitting inside the bottom of block.

Hope this helps!
 

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cucvrus

cucvrus

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When I worked at the GM dealer back in the day, we were the PA state vehicle supplier for many of the state and municipal vehicles along with PA turnpike, PA lottery vehicles and countless police state and local. Back then the state highway was using the C/K 30 vehicles with the 6.2 diesel. We added hour meters to them via an alternator hook up and installed coolant filters to everyone. The coolant filter was mounted remotely on the right inner fender and the heater hoses we Y'ed and the filter was installed. It was Perry coolant filter, and it was a genius of an idea. It had a spin on Perry coolant filter cartridge. I was at the GM school in Moorestown NJ. I went to many 6.2 classes at that site and a few CUCV classes. The first CUCV I ever seen was at this site. It was camouflage and had a 3-4 color combo but was configured differently with different earthly colors. Back to the coolant filter. As the trainer explained all the coolant will eventually be filtered thru the filter and the filter can be changed with the contaminants trapped inside the cartridge. I had changed a few years ago and have cut one open to look inside. What I observed was little or nothing in the filter. I had one of the filters and bases in my barn and used it to filter moisture and contaminates out of my air lines. Not sure if it was effective but it was the thought. I still have it mounted on the wall and don't use it. Just a thought. Good Luck. I don't think going as far as knocking out freeze out plugs to drain the coolant is needed in most vehicles. I have had the engines out of a few CUCV's and knocked them out and washed the inside out. Not mush in there in my experience. If it has heavy sediment inside it has other issues that need addressed. I would fear the water jackets are nearly corroded thru. My 7.3 Ford diesel cavitated on me even after using the Ford cavitation fluid. I would say if you drained the coolant and keep the radiator clean using only clean new coolant premix you should be good. Eventually you will have changed all the coolant. Also I knocked out a lot of freeze out plugs only to find they were in great condition. But if you start knocking them out replace them with brass and add a block heater on the midway back center freeze out hole driver's side. Happy Holidays.
 
M

MAZ537

Member
166
23
18
Location
EU
Thank you all for your great help guys !!!

Radiator in finally in !!! I have filled it with distilled water just for a test run and to try to remove the old cooland from the engine block...
Down there we have G11 , G12 , G13 coolants , G11 is for older vehicles but I have no idea which brand to use as some of them are not suitable for copper/brass radiators...Any suggestion guys ???

Thank you!
 
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