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Dremel tool and rust removal?

Augdog1964

Member
522
15
18
Location
Richmond, IN
Hey all,

I'm beginning an interior spot paint process on our BPzV (BMP-1 recon unit). This vehicle has begun to get rust in small areas where she had condensation from the temp changes in war storage. For instance a strap bracket or on top of attachment brackets.

I was wondering if anyone had used a specific dremel tool head with success to remove the rust to bare metal then spot prime? Maybe another tool or process? I've had naval jelly suggested, but the tight spaces and poor ventilation concerns me...

thanks!
 

WarrenD

New member
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Location
CT
I have a wire wheel attachment for my Dremel but it is on the weak side power-wise. If that's all you can get in there, it will work, but you'll have to take your time and may go thru a few of the wire wheels as they aren't made for heavy duty work.
I would suggest that you get the scale and anything loose off, wire wheel it and then use POR-15. It's a great rust converter (just don't get any one you, it won't come off!) and it seems to set up better in humid weather. Prime and paint over that. If there are any fumes, they will be gone when it cures and after paint, should be good for many years to come. The nice hting about POR-15 is it actually grips better if you have a little rust left so no need to ape to get to bare metal.
 

Augdog1964

Member
522
15
18
Location
Richmond, IN
Scaler

Yeah, I have a scaler (not for the dremel, not sure if they make attachments for that), but the scaler is just to big for many of the small spots...

On the POR-15, is that a brand name or a type of primer? Any idea where it can be purchased?

Thanks!
 

Flyingvan911

Well-known member
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Location
Kansas City, MO
I would use some better air tools. The Dremel is great for small detail work but not for heavy duty rust. I would use a needle scaler to remove flaking paint and heavy, flaking rust. Use a big wire wheel (1/4" shank) to get off surface rust and finish off the heavier rust. POR-15 will help keep it from coming back. (It will help, but rust is very hard to get rid of.) Then prime and paint.

You can buy POR-15 from their website. Type POR-15 on yahoo search. It is a chemical that dries out and coats the rust. It isn't a primer.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Augdog, what about the airbrush sized sandblaster from HF? It seems compact and sand should do the trick.
 

Capt.Marion

Active member
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Atlanta, GA
Can you post a picture of the spots in the interior that you're trying to get at to give us an idea of what size area you're talking about, etc?
 

WarrenD

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POR-15 is a Dupont product. I got mine at a local auto body supply shop. NAPA carries a rust converter that their salesmen say is better, but I think they are trying to make a sale.
If you get the POR-15, when you go to close it, be sure there isn't a drop of the stuff in the rim of the can. If so, you'll never get the lid off again. Use a piece of saran wrap over the open can and then put on the lid.
 

sigo

Lieutenant Colonel
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Leavenworth, KS
For small spot rust removal on my former 101 trailer, fuel can olders, pioneer tools, etc I used a wire brush on my dewalt cordless drill. I used my dremel w/wire wheel on some small stuff for about a minute then realized it was just too small. I say use the tool that the job needs but a dremel is good for really SMALL stuff. Rust just needed more power, I found the 18v dewalt was as small as i needed for about 99% of my rust removal/paint prep.
 

Augdog1964

Member
522
15
18
Location
Richmond, IN
Great ideas

All fantastic ideas....

I will take a few pics tomorrow of the areas and type of issues we are needing to address... I'll also take a look at the mini scaler and the Dewalt... We really have to attack this rust issue in armor... here in Indiana the rapid temp changes cause a lot of condensation...

Be back tomorrow. Thanks all!
 

Torisco

Active member
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Bishop, California
I used a chemical rust comverter that turns the rust black (so you know you got it) and creates a seal over it. You must then prime and paint over it (do not sand) sanding will remove the seal. So any sanding must be done first.

This stuff can be expensive but it works.
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,657
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Location
Schertz TX
Any phosphoric acid product is harmless fume wise. This includes Naval Jelly. Aside from eye irritation if directly contacting, it isn't harmful. Sure, it can irritate the skin, wash it off with Lava Soap. Lava Soap works great for neutralizing acids on skin.

Rust forms in layers, the tight layer on the steel is like mill scale, POR will adhere to it well. Extensive soaking in Naval Jelly will eventually convert it, although it is best to completely remove the converted layer.

With POR, always wear gloves. This is a moisture curing urethane, like Gorilla Glue and NOTHING will take cured product off skin, that must wear off. Takes a week. And if the dew point is under 50 F, cure is SLOW. If curing is slow, adding humidity by vaporizing water will help. I've used an air hose blow gun, a water bottle and a drinking straw to make an atomizer, don't spray the applied POR directly as it will bubble. Spray the walls and ceiling of the shop.

Nothing beats mechanical removal. Don't discount the Dremel Moto Tool. I've done real body work with one, the abrasive cutting wheels will cut 16 gauge steel, removing 1"square rust outs. Just ask mkcoen, he likes my work. Precision patches, TIG welded in place.
 

M715VFD405

New member
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Weatherford/Oklahoma
I wouldn't count the dremel out just yet. If the space is small sometimes the bigger heads just won't fit in there. I'm not sure a wire wheel would be my first choice. I would try one of the sanding heads they work great for just what your talking about you can even buy the snake attachment to add length. I use mine all the time for stuff like this. I would also follow up with the por 15 and a good primer after to make sure I didn't have to repeat my actions a few years from now.
 

Augdog1964

Member
522
15
18
Location
Richmond, IN
Lowes

I'm going to run to Lowes today and review their stock of Dremel tools... and the moto tool recommended as well. The sanding discs are what I was thinking too, I had used a dremel wire wheel on another project and it lasted about 5 minutes...

I'll get some pics up too... thanks all.
 
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