Drip drip of diesel from bell housing, IP?

[SandBar]

Truck runs great. Might be a little low on power, but then again that might be how it is. Starts perfect, idles great, no smoke. When I shut it off and get under it, there is usually a few drops of diesel that run down the bell housing then it stops dripping.

I had read that's usually an IP seal? If so, should I just grab a spare IP and rebuild it? On a M1009, what would be the correct IP to buy?

 

[Barneyrubble]

Check for diesel in the "valley",between the heads under the IP,if diesel is present,seals are defective,I had mine rebuilt when they went.

 

[SandBar]

OK, on top of the intake manifold at the rear? Thank you.

 

[Barneyrubble]

No,underneath the manifold.

 

[SandBar]

Ok I see now, thanks.

 

[Barneyrubble]

No problem.

 

[Skinny]

Leaky IP, probably a throttle shaft seal or hoses.

Mine ran great but leaked from old age...common problems with IP's and human beings. Just get the most up to date DB2 pump available. Will set you back between $500-700 depending on where you live. If this is the problem...

 

[SandBar]

I am all for updating it. How do I figure out the latest DB2 pump that will fit? Is it worth it at all to buy those 50.00 rebuild kits and try to rebuild it myself or is it more headache than it is worth?

 

[Skinny]

It all depends on what you are looking to do. I have a decent amount of spare time, very good mechanical abilities, and lots of tools with a heated indoor workspace. I opted to get a reman'd unit. It boils down to it being a central part of the fuel system and worth every penny to have a Stanadyne certified technician rebuilding it. I would take it on myself but at the end of the day...I just want the peace of mind knowing I have a factory certified reman unit instead of something I attempted to fix for the first time.

I don't have a part number for your pump but the Stanadyne dealer took the most up to date off the shelf DB2 pump and recal'd it for my 6.2L J code engine. I also went through the trouble of replacing valve cover gaskets because you can't get those off unless you remove the injector lines. Now is also a good opportunity to replace the rubber fuel hoses in the engine compartment. I also upgraded my filtration to protect my shiny new IP as well.

Good luck!

 

[scottladdy]

Rebuilt IP and Injectors

I am all for updating it. How do I figure out the latest DB2 pump that will fit? Is it worth it at all to buy those 50.00 rebuild kits and try to rebuild it myself or is it more headache than it is worth?

The TM's document the procedure, so you should be able to determine whether or not you have the inclination to perform the rebuild yourself by reading the procedure.

Search posts. I know prices members have gotten on rebuilds vary greatly. You will also see what their experiences have been.

The seals deteriorate from age. In addition, since our trucks most likely sat for long periods with aging fuel, the internal components of the IP and injectors are most likely scored or worn. This is because these parts are lubricated by the fuel itself, and the lubricity of the fuel declines with age.

The following is just my experience. Not a specific endorsement and I have no affiliation with the vendor I chose to purchase from.
I recently purchased a re-build from Badger Diesel in Wisconsin. So far so good. I purchased a rebuilt IP, injectors, and non-clamping return fuel line from them. Nice pieces, although delivery was slow. He is very busy, mentioned he is having trouble finding good help (he is very fussy about quality, and if my pieces are representative they are top notch, I posted pics in another post). I am about to place an order from them for injectors for my other truck, which had a refreshed IP when I bought it, but has the original injectors. They also have a presence on a major auction site.

Please post your decision so that others may benefit from your experience.

 

[scottladdy]

Oh yeah, make sure you get a pump calibrated for the "J" code or "Heavy Duty" engine.

 

[SandBar]

Thank you both. I am confident in my abilities however I may take both options. I will hunt down a compatible rebuilt pump, then get a rebuild kit and see about rebuilding my original pump as a spare. I am confident that USDA (Who had my truck after the military) did not use fuel additives or anything other than basic jiffy lube style PM The oil was sooooo ugly. Runs like a top, now to fix the diesel leak.

 

[Skinny]

I agree, you can find many good locals and ebay pumps...DO YOUR HOMEWORK!!!

Plenty of good and bad experiences on here. Prices have nothing to do with it. My price was smack dab in the middle which yielded me a factory reman'd pump from an authorized dealer. You will find many places listed on SS which would be more than happy to take your money and ship you a very high quality IP. You will of course have to jump up and down like it is Christmas morning when the UPS man arrives.

 

[Warthog]

Rebuilding of the IP isn't that hard. It is the correct calibration of the unit that is a bear. Without the $30K+ test stand, it isn't going to run properly.

I attempted rebuilding a DB2 unit (same as the CUCVs) for a MEP-005a genset. After the IP rebuild, it kind of ran. Ended up taking it to my local Stanadyne shop and $500 later it ran like a top.

If you are just replacing a couple of exterior seals, you should be okay. If you go deeper then take it to a shop.

You will be surprised how much better your truck will run with a fresh rebuild. Remember that these trucks are 25+ years old, the pump wears out and the internal seals breakdown.

 

[SandBar]

Haha, I will do some searching so I do not ask a million more questions on this topic. Next step is to find the most updated J code pump number then track one down. This forum is a requirement for owning a CUCV!

 

[SandBar]

Rebuilding of the IP isn't that hard. It is the correct calibration of the unit that is a bear. Without the $30K+ test stand it isn't going to run properly.

I attempted rebuilding a DB2 unit (same as the CUCVs) for a MEP-005a genset. After the IP rebuild, it kind of ran. Ended up taking it to my local Stanadyne shop and $500 later it ran like a top.

Good point. I want to get a good look at the leaking area to see if it is the actual IP leaking or just a gasket/line.

 

[scottladdy]

Rebuilding of the IP isn't that hard. It is the correct calibration of the unit that is a bear. Without the $30K+ test stand, it isn't going to run properly.

The same holds true for the injectors. You can replace the nozzle, but they have to be set to the correct "pop" pressure and must not leak. Otherwise you will not be able to guarantee your timing. The IP and injectors work in concert. I highly advise rebuilt and properly calibrated injectors when you replace your IP.

 

[SandBar]

Seeing injector + pump + lines + gaskets for 500-800. Now to shop price and peoples reviews.

 

[scottladdy]

Good point. I want to get a good look at the leaking area to see if it is the actual IP leaking or just a gasket/line.

See my previous post. Internal parts are most likely scored. Like Warthog said, a properly rebuilt IP and Injectors will make a world of difference. It will seem like a new truck.

One more thing, have you performed a compression test on your engine? Diesels are compression ignition and you must have a "healthy" engine as well.

 

[SandBar]

See my previous post. Internal parts are most likely scored. Like Warthog said, a properly rebuilt IP and Injectors will make a world of difference. It will seem like a new truck.

One more thing, have you performed a compression test on your engine? Diesels are compression ignition and you must have a "healthy" engine as well.

I am new to diesels and the following may be ignorant: No, I have not tested the compression. I was happy that the truck starts immediately every time (new batteries and fluids plus diesel kleen), does not smoke, does not sputter, idles down after a few moments, accelerates, has no odd sounds and is fine with a hot restart. That said, should I bother with all of those indicators?