Drive shaft question for D60/14 bolt swap on m1009

[Cowboy9109]

Will be doing the 60/14 swap this weekend. Front will get new shackles and zero rate rear wil get 2" block for now. Question is will i have to shorten drivshafts? I have read alot of the other post in regards to this job but didnt see a whole lot about drive shaft length and it seems everybody is doing a 4" or 6" lift with their swap. I wont be doing that yet. Any help, tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated

 

[bachman502]

You will have to shorten the rear. I’m not sure about the front but I would think you would. You also have to replace the yoke on the drive shafts to match the yokes on the differentials. Unless you want to run a conversation u joint. But I would not go that route.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Okay, the 60 pinion is longer than the 10 bolt so there may be an issue there. If you are going zero rates, move the front axle fwd an inch and be done with it. The 14B FF has a short 3 bearing pinion which is very close to the 10 bolt. Length won't be an issue but different size joints will. As mentioned, combo ujoint or a new 1350 weld yoke on your driveshaft and be done with that end too.

 

[bachman502]

I know you didn’t ask this but just worth mentioning it. If your donor 14 bolt came from a 1 ton truck, you will have to move the spring perches on the axle.

 

[Cowboy9109]

Thanks for the reply! So the zero rate i have, but stephen from ORD said wouldnt be a good idea to push axle forward.... why i cant remember, guess i need to call him back, but everybody tells me to push it forward.... worst case, ill set zero rate 1" forward, if i run into issue, ill just move it back. If i push axle forward, will everything from steering still bolt up? 14bolt, i have new perches and shock tabs. I have the conversion U-joint, why is it not a good idea to run it?

 

[bachman502]

I’m pretty confident that you have to shorten the rear driveshaft. However I could be wrong. If you do, then you might as well have the driveshaft shop weld on a new 1350 yoke on it. Whether or not you did or didn’t have to shorten shaft, please update this thread with what you had to do.

 

[Cowboy9109]

Ok, will keep that in mind. Makes sense. Thanks again for reply, i will update next week. Doing swap this weekend.

 

[patracy]

Moved to CUCV forum.

 

[nyoffroad]

You never said what drive shafts your planning on using, Either one of the fronts might fight but your going to have to change a yoke or use a conversion joint. I would use the truck rear shaft and have the front yoke changed and the shaft shortened, it's cheaper to shorten than to lengthen plus you have stronger/heavier u-joints. Don't have anything done to the shafts until everything is bolted and weight is on the wheels! Then measure center to center of u-joints and take that measurement to the drive shaft shop.

 

[Ilikemtb999]

I have a 2” spring lift up front and a Dana 60 and did nothing to my driveshaft up front. My rear I had a 1350 double cardan shaft made so unsure on the stock shaft length working. Didn’t make sense to keep the 1310 u joints and use a conversion to me.

 

[Cowboy9109]

Using stock drive shafts for now. Unless i have to shorten them, if i do, i will have the 1350 welded on. When you did swap did you run into any issues? I have zero rate and the heavy duty shackles should give me close to 2" of lift up front. What size tires and did you have to do fender trimming? Im going with the 37" BFG baja T/A so im sure i will have to cut quite a bit

 

[Ilikemtb999]

Using stock drive shafts for now. Unless i have to shorten them, if i do, i will have the 1350 welded on. When you did swap did you run into any issues? I have zero rate and the heavy duty shackles should give me close to 2" of lift up front. What size tires and did you have to do fender trimming? Im going with the 37" BFG baja T/A so im sure i will have to cut quite a bit

Is this addressed to me? If so I can run down my suspension setup with you.

Front: tuff country HD 2” lift springs up front with stock length shackles.
Rear: Zero lift shackles flip by TNA and 7” long shackles in back.
Tires/wheels: 16x8 with 4.5” backspacing and 315/75/16 bfg ko2’s which are just shy of 35”

i had to hack the rear rear of the front fenders quite a bit. I pie cut and slid the fender back and repelled it on. The front I kind of just hacked off and wish I would of come up with something better.

 

[Cowboy9109]

Hey man, sorry, still learning how to use this forum, if i made a mistake on how i reply and made it confusing, im sorry. Thank you for the pictures and explaining your lift and tire size to me. I have completed swap, all im waiting on is to get my drivehafts back. I went with 2 inch blocks in rear, and zero rates in front, but i did not stretch axle forward, i kept it where it should be. My rear drive shaft had to be extended 1.75" and my front driveshaft fully compressed wouldnt even fit, so i had it shortend about 3 inche Wasnt a hard job, just a little time consuming with the little things that came with the swap. If i can figure out how to upload pictures, i will post them later. Thanks for everybodys help and input