Driveshaft between T-case and Tranny...

[1qwkgoat]

IHASFIP

This is off topic but I just wanted to say that cam in your Z is one of my favorite cams ever. I had one in my 97 trans am, wish I would have kept that car. Mine was also a M6 never 4.10's was afraid of breaking the rearend. Don't see near as many LT1's running around anymore, when I read your signature I just had to say something.

 

[Boatcarpenter]

I have no idea if this might be a valid solution and/or help, but here goes.
Perhaps certain vibration patterns combined with the direction of rotation contribute to the loosening of those bolts. Might replacing them with proper nuts and bolts with LEFT HAND THREADS reduce the chances of them loosening up

As the original poster said, "flame away"
BC

 

[Snarky]

Someone suggested cross drilling the bolts and using castle nuts with safety wire, is there any reason why safety wire or even a locking pin would be a bad idea?

 

[gt40072004]

Thats an idea, but if this vibration is pretty common to these units it would probably shear the pins if it is strong enough to back off this type lock washer. I have seen these in lots of aplications,but have never seen them loosen. It's hard to believe that this is normal. I am working on a solution. So far its going to cost a transmission and a complete short shaft with a three hundred mile drive to get parts. I hope that people buying and selling these rigs (privately) will see this thread. It can save a bunch of money and trouble.

 

[gt40072004]

Thanks...thats an interesting idea. I am darn near ready to tack tack weld the nuts and keep a die grinder handy!

 

[Speddmon]

Seriously guys, read the previous posts...loctite and new "deformed" locking nuts should be all you need. If you want to make sure the you never have another problem, get new bolts as well.

Just make absolutely sure you clean the bolts and nuts of grease and oils before applying the loctite. I've used this stuff for years in an industrial setting and it really is good stuff (I'm not BSing here...the crap works). No need to go overboard and tack weld the nuts, no need to drill and pin the bolts.

Chances are, they were just worked on by someone and they didn't torque them properly.

How many of you guys who have tightened them actually took the time to pull the tunnels in the cab so you can access them properly and apply the correct amount of torque to the bolts? I can almost assure you that you would have a heck of a time doing it right from under the truck because you don't have the room to get the proper tools in there to do it right.

I'm not bustin on anybodies ideas, I'm just trying to save some of you guys a lot of work. Flame away if you want to, but that's my opinion of the situation.