Driveshaft

[ssdvc]

I am working on the underside of my truck. When able, I will be replacing the rear seal on the trans. I'll need to remove the rear driveshaft in order for this to happen and while I am at it, I was going to replace the U-joints (Spicer 5-1350X). I have viewed a few videos and thought I would be dealing with this type of U-joint, held in by that clip:



While my buddy was under the truck, he snapped pics of my U-joints for me. This is what is on there now, both connecting the slip yoke in front to the rear driveshaft and also on the rear end attaching it to the end of the driveshaft:



Notice that there are no ring clips holding the U-joints in. My question is, do I need some other type of U-joint? Trying to line up my ducks before starting this.

 

[ssdvc]

OK, I think I purchased the worng U-Joints. The 5-1350X is for a manual trans. It says I need 5-795X. Both are non greaseable, but maybe one is a different size? Anyway, it looks like my local Autozone has 2 in stock, so I'll get them in the morning.

However, all the U-joints I have looked at have clips and it appears the ones currently installed in my truck do not. What am I missing?

 

[porkysplace]

The ones on the truck are probably factory u-joints and injected plastic holds them in , the replacements use the clips to hold them .
You know save a penny during production using plastic. Should be covered in the TM.

 

[ssdvc]

Thanks Porky. I did some further reading and that's exactly what I have. I guess the Spicer replacements (5-795X) have some sort of "inside" retaining clip, which I'l try and figure out how to do. I am sure it will be fun removing them, but I also read that sometimes they can just be removed with the C-clamp tool. More to follow.

 

[porkysplace]

Thanks Porky. I did some further reading and that's exactly what I have. I guess the Spicer replacements (5-795X) have some sort of "inside" retaining clip, which I'l try and figure out how to do. I am sure it will be fun removing them, but I also read that sometimes they can just be removed with the C-clamp tool. More to follow.

A little bit of heat from a propane torch will melt the plastic out . it will come the hole they inject it in .

 

[reloader64]

Be careful when heating the u-joints with the plastic. Occasionally, the plastic will shoot out of the hole, and melted plastic is HOT!

Scott

 

[Keith_J]

The plastic retainers yield to a good U joint press without heat. Don't do what I did and break a good vise. I found the proper press from a local scrap dealer for $20.

 

[Mad Texan]

If you are close to an auto parts store and they have a tool rental program, a ball joint press works well.

 

[cucvrus]

The rear U joint on the m1009 has the snap Clips on the caps inside to center it on the yoke. Same as the driveshaft. the snap rings are on the inside. They are NOT out side.

This is just an example. The M1009 requires the internal snap rings to keep the U joint centered in the open yoke.

 

[cucvrus]

This yoke has no flange to center U joint. The C clips do the centering like an M1009 was designed. Clips on inside of U joint caps.

This yoke requires no C clips and is self centering when the correct U joint is seated inside the flanges.

This is an example again of the Clip yoke that is stock on the M1009.

This is how I see people that didn't figure out why the U joint won't stay centered. All the U joints on the M1009 drive shaft have the C clips inside at the rear U joint. Do it right, or just don't do it. Good Luck.

 

[nyoffroad]

Good info CUCVRUS, I've seen u-joint caps spot welded in place before but your pic is impressive!

 

[ssdvc]

If you are close to an auto parts store and they have a tool rental program, a ball joint press works well.

Yup, called Autozone and they have that rental tool available.

 

[ssdvc]

Ok, finally got my buddy back to help me finally get to some of the remaining maintenance items (not done yet). Swapped out my U-joints today and they look to be the originals (plastic locking ring).



I used the Spicer lifetime 5-795X on both ends of the rear driveshaft.



On the old U-joints, all the needle bearings were hard to move and fairly dry. Some of the cups were rusted inside and the U-joint bearing surfaces on the rear most U-joint were shot. Definitely time for replacement (maybe overdue?



Glad to get to these, as it looks like failure was imminent. Process was fairly straight forward, although having a impact gun and that ball joint clamp made the job really easy.