Duals to Singles

[tklm539]

Hello All,

As I am getting ready to switch from duals to singles, I a question or two. I have read all the posts that I could find on the process. So here we go...

1) If all goes as planned and I do not break anything, are there any parts, seals that I will need to replace to complete the job. If so could you tell me what I will need to order.

2) "You need to move the rear axle spacers to center the wheel", this is what I have been told in order to keep the back end from looking to narrow. Could someone explain this step to me.

Thanks

Tom

 

[BFR]

http://imageevent.com/cranetruck/m35dualstosinglesconversion

I would do the seals unless you know they have been done recently

 

[rwelker]

flipped hubs

I flipped mine about 3 years ago. I would have at least a spare or two of the seals handy in case you mess one up switching them. There are inner and outer seals which are different and they will need to be flipped when you flip the hubs. If you have the money I'd replace them while you have it apart. Be sure to install the little seal at the keyway. I live about 10 miles from Saturn so it only takes me a few minutes to get my parts but some don't have that luxury. Follow the instructions posted on this site and you wont' have any problems. If you are at all mechanically inclined, it will be obvious what needs to be done when you get it apart.

 

[gringeltaube]

"You need to move the rear axle spacers to center the wheel"

There aren't any "spacers"!
Once the rear hubs are flipped all three axles have the same width, that is 79".
Now it depends on the selected wheel (backspace) how narrow or not the back end will look. See diagram.

I have read all the posts that I could find on the process

Do another search and read them again!

Gerhard

 

[tklm539]

Thanks for the post. I got it!! Just wanted to make sure that I was not missing anything. The spacers were mentioned to me by a local logger.

Thanks

Tom

 

[houdel]

Here is a set of photos which clearly, if briefly, illustrate the hub flip process (courtesy of Bjorn Brandstedt AKA "Cranetruck"). I would have at least two sets of replacement seals and one complete set of bearings and cups on hand before starting just in case you find some damaged parts in there. As already mentioned, make sure you have the cork inserts to seal the axle keyways (or a good silicone sealant in place of the cork). I'd also suggest a replacement set of axle flange seals. One frequently overlooked point is that you will need 24 FRONT lug nuts (12 right, 12 left) to bolt the wheels back in place, unless you intend to use the inner stud/caps as lug nuts.

In any case, do NOT run the inner stud/caps down on the wheel lugs before you install the wheel, figuring you can use the old rear lug nuts to secure the rear wheels. The inner stud/caps are not deep enough to run fully down on the hub studs. The inner stud/caps have a taper at the bottom of the blind threaded hole where they fit over the wheel stud, attempting to do so WILL screw up the threads on both the inner stud/cap and the wheel stud. Ask me how I know!

http://imageevent.com/cranetruck/m35dualstosinglesconversion

 

[rmgill]

Also, Bjorn's photo misses the safety wire step that you have to do on the hub to brake drum connections. Seems superfluous with the torque, but it's a pretty critical part, so torque and safetywire.

I'm actually thinking about finding a couple more 1100 tires and flipping the middle axle back so I have 2 in front, 4 tires on the middle axle and 2 on the rear axle. A Rear axle disconnect would be ideal to add to that too.

 

[comdiver]

Does anyone know what size the front wheel nuts are? If not, I'll get my trusty ruller out. Where is the best place to get the seals?

 

[FSBruva]

Does anyone know what size the front wheel nuts are? If not, I'll get my trusty ruller out.

... the same as the outer rear nuts.

Do I take this to mean that you own a deuce, yet don't know which wrench you need to bring along to change a flat tire? WOW. Probly wouldn't hurt to do the ruler thing.

Without any mental reservation or purpose of evasion, I heartily recommend one of the site sponsors - ODIron.com. Their prices handily beat Ted's Trucks, who heretofore was the lowest priced source for the seals. Plus, it's run by a member of the site.

Matt

 

[gringeltaube]

Also, Bjorn's photo misses the safety wire step that you have to do on the hub to brake drum connections. Seems superfluous with the torque, but it's a pretty critical part, so torque and safetywire.

Safetywire step? Have we all overlooked something? Could you please indicate where exactly it goes?

 

[houdel]

Does anyone know what size the front wheel nuts are? If not, I'll get my trusty ruller out.

... the same as the outer rear nuts.
Matt

Well, yes and no. The OUTER hex size is the same, 1-1/2", but the bolt hole sizes are different. The front wheel and rear HUB studs are (as roughly measured on my truck) about 3/4" diameter. The rear inner stud/cap is (again as roughly measured on my truck) about 1-1/8" diameter.

Thus the front lug nuts are 1-1/2" hex with a 3/4"-ish x something thread, while the rear lug nuts are 1-1/2" hex with a 1-1/8"-ish x something thread. Perhaps someone else has the exact thread sizes, but you get the idea. You will have to get a set of front wheel lug nuts if you wish to attach the rear wheels with lug nuts instead of the inner stud/cap. Wheel nuts are about $2.00-$2.50 each from Saturn, last time I looked.

 

[rmgill]

Also, Bjorn's photo misses the safety wire step that you have to do on the hub to brake drum connections. Seems superfluous with the torque, but it's a pretty critical part, so torque and safetywire.

Safetywire step? Have we all overlooked something? Could you please indicate where exactly it goes?

The bolts (16) have holes through their heads. Mine were safety wired. I re-wired those with new steel wire. A bit larger but it works for the purpose.

Here's one of my hubs and drums re-wired.

 

[steelsoldiers]

I'm actually thinking about finding a couple more 1100 tires and flipping the middle axle back so I have 2 in front, 4 tires on the middle axle and 2 on the rear axle. A Rear axle disconnect would be ideal to add to that too.

Hmmm, then it will look like the back end of a tour bus with a tag axle

 

[gringeltaube]

...The bolts (16) have holes through their heads. Mine were safety wired. I re-wired those with new steel wire. A bit larger but it works for the purpose.

Interesting, always good to learn more, thanks!
I have seen/disassembled over a dozen trucks, most where old gassers '52 up to mid '60, and never noticed any hub-drum assys wired, neither drilled bolt heads. And never found any being loose, either.
Wonder what model year they came that way??? Also why???

 

[ironhorsethegeneral]

Our 2nd truck which is a 67 did not have the holes for the safety wire but our 70 did. It mary very between trucks.

 

[derby]

A little off subject, but my 5 ton has the saftey wires.Also I think the spacers he referd to are only on the 5 ton Bridge truck.