Dura-Lube in a 6.2L Diesel

[CycleJay]

Hi Guys,

Have any of you ever used "Dura-Lube Engine Treatment" (it is an engine oil additive), in any of your
6.2L Diesel CUCV engines?

If so, has it worked well? and did what it is supposed to do?

I used to use it in all of my previous gasoline engines.
And it worked great every time, always did everything it was advertised to do.
So I was always very happy with it.

But this is a new engine and engine type for me, I would like to know your thoughts.
Before I consider using it in my M1009.

Any helpful information would be appreciated.

Thank you, good night,

CJ

 

[tamecrow]

Just my opinion, but the only additives you need are already in good quality engine oil.

Here's an article on engine oil additives including Dura-Lube:
Technilube.com - Oil Additives

 

[Maverick1701]

here are a few good studies about fuel additives out there (I couldnt tell if your question was about
an oil additive or a fuel additive)

here is one (results start on pg 6)

http://www.johnfjensen.com/Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf

I run 2-stroke oil w/my diesel (I figure anything is better than plain ULSD to help lube the fuel system) but there are hundreds of threads going round and round about other additives lol

 

[Cucvnut]

The only thing i put in my trucks/cars is Lucas oil

http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=48&catid=13&loc=show

http://www.lucasoil.com/products/di...=8&loc=show&headTitle= - Lucas Fuel Treatment

 

[CycleJay]

Sorry Mav,
Dura-Lube is an engine oil additive, it comes in quart size bottles.
So when you do an oil change, you can replace one of the quarts of oil with a quart of dura-lube.

Dura lube is supposed to bond to your engine, making the inside of your engine slicker, permanently.

I have used it on at least 3-4 different vehicle engines I have driven before, and it was fantastic stuff!
And it works just as good, if not better as it did in the infomercials, a few years back when they were on TV.

I just never tried it on a diesel engine yet.

So I wanted some outside thoughts on the matter, before considering using it in my M1009's engine.

I just read the info. at the link provided to me by tamecrow here:
Technilube.com - Oil Additives

I never had those problems they claim with Dura Lube.
But after reading that, just to be on the safe side I will NOT use Dura Lube
in the future. I will just stick with good quality motor oil.

Any recommendations on a good quality motor oil for the 6.2L Diesel V8,
found in the typical M1009? I am using Shell Rotella T 15w-40 for now.
Like the previous owner suggested, but I would like to hear more comments.

Thank you, good night,

CJ

 

[CycleJay]

Tamecrow,

Thank you for the link to that article.
That answers my question.

I will NOT use Dura Lube in the future, I will stick with just good quality engine oil.

Thank you, Good night,

CJ

 

[OL AG '89]

My choices for engine oil ..... Rotella, Mobil-Delvac, as long as they meet the SC, Sd-SE requirements of the engine.... I've never run a diesel into the ground, so it must be the oil, cause I've tried.....
Biggest secret to longetivity is Clean Oil, and good filters my

 

[1986Blazerk5]

Sorry Mav,
Dura-Lube is an engine oil additive, it comes in quart size bottles.
So when you do an oil change, you can replace one of the quarts of oil with a quart of dura-lube.

Dura lube is supposed to bond to your engine, making the inside of your engine slicker, permanently.

I have used it on at least 3-4 different vehicle engines I have driven before, and it was fantastic stuff!
And it works just as good, if not better as it did in the infomercials, a few years back when they were on TV.

I just never tried it on a diesel engine yet.

So I wanted some outside thoughts on the matter, before considering using it in my M1009's engine.

I just read the info. at the link provided to me by tamecrow here:
Technilube.com - Oil Additives

I never had those problems they claim with Dura Lube.
But after reading that, just to be on the safe side I will NOT use Dura Lube
in the future. I will just stick with good quality motor oil.

Any recommendations on a good quality motor oil for the 6.2L Diesel V8,
found in the typical M1009? I am using Shell Rotella T 15w-40 for now.
Like the previous owner suggested, but I would like to hear more comments.

Thank you, good night,

CJ

I use Rotella T the same as you, i have heard really good things about the stuff, also mobile delvac is supposed to be good.

 

[wallew]

I'm going to HAVE to disagree with you folks.

I have been using ProLong as an additive since 1992 (oil, tranny, fuel) plus they make a great oil substitute spray that works great when I do work on firearms for people as a gunsmith. Like dura-lube, it coats the metal in a silicone substance that adheres to the metal.

I ALSO use Royal Purple products exclusively. With the exception of transmission fluid. I have tried RP there as well, it's just too slick for auto trannies. I DO use it in ANY standard transmission or transfer case and in ALL my axles.

I've read all the reports.

But ProLong kept me from having to walk with a broken tranny in my 91 GMC Suburban. As I had already had one 88 Sub cr@p it's tranny and it DID leave me, my wife and my father in law stranded, I went looking for an additive I can believe in.

Until you have personally seen their demo's up close, no one here will believe.

But when I did have a problem with my 700R4 transmission, I had it rebuilt. The guy said, 'I didn't see a tow truck'... 'Nah, says I, I just drove it here'. I left out that the problem had occurred in TEXAS, 450 miles south of Denver and I had driven it home the whole way with zero problems other than the cruise control would not hold the speed above 50 mph. But the truck drove just fine without the cruise control.

'That's not possible' said the guy. He held out his hand with a mixture of white plastic parts. 'THIS is your high speed impeller and it was in numerous pieces floating around INSIDE your transmission. There is NO WAY you could have driven that truck with these pieces floating around in your tranny.'

So, while other quote studies, I can only give you personal experience. And ONLY for ProLong and Royal Purple, used together. But if you've used Dura-lube in the past and were happy with it, the chances are HIGH you will also be happy with the results in your 6.2L engine as well.

 

[tamecrow]

Prolong Super Lubricants, Inc.

 

[mikelee]

As long as you change your oil (as everyone should) you will never have problems have done quite a bit of research on lubricants and for the most part additives do not work... Diesel oil systems use high detergent oil which cleans.Use the correct lubricant specified for the engine and not switching between brands and you will avoid failure...Keep it clean and tight.....

 

[tamecrow]

 

[67_C-30]

The FTC has sued Just about all of them for not doing what they say they will do. Their so-called proving demonstrations are a controlled model. We've all seen the bench mounted inline six (or slant six) running with their miracle juice. Several manufacturers have tested new engines side by side using this method, and have seen no evidence that the said miracle juice has helped anything. Briggs and Stratton decided to run a similar, but somewhat more scientific, experiment. Taking two brand-new, identical engines straight off their assembly line, they set them
up for bench-testing. The only difference was that one had the special additive included with its oil and the other did not.

Both were operated for 20 hours before being shut down and having the oil drained from them. Then both were started up again and allowed to run for another 20 straight hours. Neither engine seemed to have any problem performing this "minor miracle."
[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]After the second 20-hour run, both engines were completely torn down and inspected by the company's engineers.

[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]What they found was that both engines suffered from scored crankpin bearings, but the engine treated with the additive also suffered from
heavy cylinder bore damage that was not evident on the untreated engine.[/FONT]
[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]This points out once again the inherent problem with particulate oil additives:
They can cause oil starvation. This is particularly true in the area of piston rings, where there is a critical need for adequate oil flow.
In practically all of the reports and studies on oil additives, and particularly those involving suspended solids like PTFE, this has been
reported as a major area of engine damage.[/FONT]

[/FONT]No matter how hard they try, they just CAN NOT put a mechanic in a can!

 

[67_C-30]

I will say that adding a particular element that has been taken out of oil or fuel is acceptable. Early 70's and prior gassers were designed to run with leaded fuel, so a lead additive is needed to to make the valves seats live since they are not hardened. Flat tappet cams need a break-in oil that contains zinc sinc its been taken out of modern oil. Same thing with ULSD. You are only replacing what the engine was designed to have. That's much different than a miracle lube.

 

[2deuce]

I remember a private demo a guy gave me about a product he invented that you added to the oil. He used regular motor and the same motor oil with a few drops of his product. He had a lever for mechanical advantage that he used to put pressure on a bearing. He added weight to the end of his lever to the point where the bearing would seize. Hardly any weight was needed to seize it with regular oil. With his product he added all the weights the lever could take and the bearing still turned. That was 35 years ago. He wouldn't sell his secret formula only his product. The question was as with all these additives do they really make your engine last longer? There is no way to prove if they do or not. It is the claims that shut them down, the good products as well as the snake oil. If you can't advertise your out of business. I think some of the good additives have found there way into modern oil as its far superior to oil used 35 to 40 years ago, and I expect it will continue to improve.

 

[Tanner]

Ummm... society was snowed on the need for lead in fuels... and oil additives containing Teflon (PTFE) -

Any seller/manufacturer that touts the 'benefit' of any oil additive containing Teflon (PTFE) particles in suspension that are supposed to 'bond' to the metals in the engine had better realize two things:


1) DuPont never recommended the use of Teflon in engines/drivetrains
2) The point at which Teflon melts is 621-degrees Farenheit; if your oil gets that hot, you're likely to have more issues...


And RE: lead additives in fuels

Jamie Kitman, a very highly respected automotive writer, wrote an excellent article in 2000 exposing myth of lead in fuels -

Leaded gasoline: history and current situation


Excerpts:

"the benefits of lead antiknock additives were wildly and knowingly overstated in the beginning, and continue to be. Lead is not only bad for the planet and all its life forms, it is actually bad for cars and always was"


"for more than four decades, all scientific research regarding the health implications of leaded gasoline was underwritten and controlled by the original lead cabal--Du Pont, GM and Standard Oil; such research invariably favored the industry's pro-lead views, but was from the outset fatally flawed; independent scientists who would finally catch up with the earlier work's infirmities and debunk them were--and continue to be--threatened and defamed by the lead interests and their hired hands"

"An irony uncovered by Kitman is that leaded gasoline is ruinous to car engines, leading to more frequent oil changes and tune ups, piston ring wear, damage to exhaust systems, and camshaft and lifter wear. The damaging effects of lead necessitated the introduction of another gasoline additive, ethylene dibromide [EDB], which created even more environmental problems. When unleaded fuel was required in the US, EDB manufacturers found a new use for the chemical, as a pesticide. EPA banned EDB in 1974."​

"General Motors owned 50 percent of the Ethyl Corporation, which made millions annually on tetraethyl lead as an additive."



FWIW -

'Tanner'
​

 

[67_C-30]

Ummm... society was snowed on the need for lead in fuels... and oil additives containing Teflon (PTFE) -

Any seller/manufacturer that touts the 'benefit' of any oil additive containing Teflon (PTFE) particles in suspension that are supposed to 'bond' to the metals in the engine had better realize two things:


1) DuPont never recommended the use of Teflon in engines/drivetrains
2) The point at which Teflon melts is 621-degrees Farenheit; if your oil gets that hot, you're likely to have more issues...


And RE: lead additives in fuels

Jamie Kitman, a very highly respected automotive writer, wrote an excellent article in 2000 exposing myth of lead in fuels -

Leaded gasoline: history and current situation


Excerpts:

"the benefits of lead antiknock additives were wildly and knowingly overstated in the beginning, and continue to be. Lead is not only bad for the planet and all its life forms, it is actually bad for cars and always was"


"for more than four decades, all scientific research regarding the health implications of leaded gasoline was underwritten and controlled by the original lead cabal--Du Pont, GM and Standard Oil; such research invariably favored the industry's pro-lead views, but was from the outset fatally flawed; independent scientists who would finally catch up with the earlier work's infirmities and debunk them were--and continue to be--threatened and defamed by the lead interests and their hired hands"

"An irony uncovered by Kitman is that leaded gasoline is ruinous to car engines, leading to more frequent oil changes and tune ups, piston ring wear, damage to exhaust systems, and camshaft and lifter wear. The damaging effects of lead necessitated the introduction of another gasoline additive, ethylene dibromide [EDB], which created even more environmental problems. When unleaded fuel was required in the US, EDB manufacturers found a new use for the chemical, as a pesticide. EPA banned EDB in 1974."​

"General Motors owned 50 percent of the Ethyl Corporation, which made millions annually on tetraethyl lead as an additive."



FWIW -

'Tanner'​

Overall is leaded fuel is bad for engines. I agree with that. Putting leaded fuel or additives in a vehicle in a vehicle with hardened valve seats is pointless. However, if you don't put it in engines without hardened valve seats, the valve beats the valve seats and ends up sinking the valves in the head. I have been building engines for many years, and I cannot tell you how many times I've seen people nearly destroy double hump SBC heads ot BBC heads from the 60's running unleaded fuel because they cheaped out and wouldn't have hardened valve seats in the heads.

 

[2deuce]

The additive I talked about didn't have teflon. It was a clear liquid nothing in suspension.

 

[Chief_919]

The FTC has sued Just about all of them for not doing what they say they will do. Their so-called proving demonstrations are a controlled model. We've all seen the bench mounted inline six (or slant six) running with their miracle juice. Several manufacturers have tested new engines side by side using this method, and have seen no evidence that the said miracle juice has helped anything. Briggs and Stratton decided to run a similar, but somewhat more scientific, experiment. Taking two brand-new, identical engines straight off their assembly line, they set them
up for bench-testing. The only difference was that one had the special additive included with its oil and the other did not.

Both were operated for 20 hours before being shut down and having the oil drained from them. Then both were started up again and allowed to run for another 20 straight hours. Neither engine seemed to have any problem performing this "minor miracle."
[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]After the second 20-hour run, both engines were completely torn down and inspected by the company's engineers.

[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]What they found was that both engines suffered from scored crankpin bearings, but the engine treated with the additive also suffered from [/FONT]
[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]heavy cylinder bore damage that was not evident on the untreated engine.[/FONT]
[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]This points out once again the inherent problem with particulate oil additives: [/FONT]
[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]They can cause oil starvation. This is particularly true in the area of piston rings, where there is a critical need for adequate oil flow. [/FONT]
[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]In practically all of the reports and studies on oil additives, and particularly those involving suspended solids like PTFE, this has been [/FONT]
[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]reported as a major area of engine damage.[/FONT]

[/FONT]No matter how hard they try, they just CAN NOT put a mechanic in a can!

Yup.

The demonstrations of engines running with no oil pan seem impressive- but in reality an engine run with no load can run a long time like that regardless of additive. They use an inline six because under no load it puts the least strain on the bearings.

Here is a video of a Toyota Landcruiser that went 12 minutes, not with no oil, but with a sodium silicate solution in place of the oil designed to be abrasive and actually destroy the engine. If an engine can run 12 minutes with a solution intended to destroy it, you can see how an inline 6 can easily run 20-30 hours dry and on assembly lube- and then they just swap in new bearings and do it the next weekend.

 

[Paycheck]

I use motorkote works great


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