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Dynamat/Roof Sealer removal NIGHTMARE!

Roboskid

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GRAND JUNCTION, CO
Okay so the previous owner of my 1009 installed carpet in the passenger compartment. Under the carpet he used sound deadening Dynamat, He also covered the cargo area up to the top of sides with the stuff. I guess he ran out of the mat or money for the floor area on the drivers side floor board up the firewall. There he used the tar based aluminum covered roof sealer.

Well it looked ugly as all get out and it had to go. Pulling that stuff up is a real pain. The technique that I found works the best is to remove strips about 3 to 4 inches wide. I lift up the edge until I can get a good grip and start pulling. It is tedious and strains the heck out of my forearms but I made good progress and got all of the left passenger side out.

It will leave a little residue behind. That will clean up with mineral spirits and then some Simple Green cleaner. Now for the the nightmare. I tried using the same technique for the roofing sealer stuff. NO GO!!!! That stuff leaves about half of the tar behind. I tried scraping the the residue off with all types of things, just makes a mess. I used mineral spirits on rags and it will dissolve the tar but I will need a truck load rags and is messy.

I did a internet search and a person said he used a Dry Ice Method. He said to get dry ice and freeze small sections and chip them off. I gonna try and I will update if it works or not.

I am glad I am pulling this stuff up. I found two cracks where the drivers seat rear floor mount bolts to the floor. Both had cracks and will be welded up with an additional reinforcing plate welded on from underneath. Who knows what other problems may be hiding for me under this stuff.
 

patracy

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I have the opposite question. How well did the roof sealer material deaden the sound? I wouldn't want to put it anywhere it'd be visible, but I wouldn't mind on the underside of a deuce cab maybe.
 

Roboskid

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Patracy, it had the dynamat, a layer of some kind of rubber mat then the carpet it seemed to work pretty good. Unless it completely covered up with carpet or a a rubber mat I think it looks pretty ugly. I plan to cover inside with spray in bed liner after I get rid of the stuff.
 
I just finished the opposite :) I have (2) M1008 and (1) reg K5 Blazer. On my civy K5, I used the "Peel & Seal" product from Lowe's (6"x25'). I covered from up inside the dash, door panels, passenger-driver's section. I had removed the OEM cardboard side boards for the rear of the cab and replaced it with 1/8" steal diamond plate. On the backside of the metal rear sides I used the same material. I definitely noticed the difference. The cab is quieter and the AC seems to hold better now. Oh yea, I had ordered a complete vinyl floor that covers everything up. I'm a HUGE fan of bed lining the inside, but the jacka$$ before me didn't finish pulling up the old carpet before rolling the liner inside. It was ugly and it was peeling and had to be covered. Back to Peel & Seal, there are lots of you tube videos on others using this. One thing I read is about the smell, YES, there is another product that puts off a VERY strong odor, easily would give you headaches. Somewhere I also read that the Peel & Seal has the same ingredients as Dynamat, I didn't verify that myself. I love Dynamat, but it's too expensive. I'm happy with the end result. Today, I'm going to use what's left and wrap my AC plastic pieces in the dash. ROBOSKID is not kidding, make sure this is what you want BEFORE putting it on. Some areas I sprayed over the silver with a can of that FlEX SEAL (my wife had already bought a few cans). I tested a small area first, there was no kind of a chemical reaction. I've seen pics and write ups of others doing the headliner and rear cab...
 

Wildmax

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Athens, Al
I removed the army applied coating from my o9 with a HF heat gun. Worked real good. I will be applying the Raptor bed linere material to the floor and cargo area.
 

islandguydon

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Michigan
Patracy, it had the dynamat, a layer of some kind of rubber mat then the carpet it seemed to work pretty good. Unless it completely covered up with carpet or a a rubber mat I think it looks pretty ugly. I plan to cover inside with spray in bed liner after I get rid of the stuff.
I would cover up all existing areas with rubber mat or carpet. Why remove the stuff, be it FatMat or peel and stick.This was installed for a reason. I just took delivery of a factory stamped/molded carpet for a 1028 to completely cover the stuff I installed to deaden the sound. Here is a picture of what I covered up. The carpet covers the floor and not the back wall so I ordered an extra 2 yards of carpet to cover the wall for a clean install. Also of note the PDF attached is a liner you could use to cover up.

I feel, and it's just my opinion you will be better off leaving the installed product, and a cover up is the answer.2cents
 

Attachments

I understand about wanting to know what you have under it. Having found the two cracks, I'd just check for other similar area's that are known to have issues. I'd leave the rest and spend my time pulling apart an inner tube if you feel the need.
I just did my interior, floor, back wall, door skins etc with the roof patch I also sprayed bed liner over it where it showed. Then I carpet padded and covered that with the rubber floor liner, and floor mats made of bed floor rubber mat. I also insulated my hood and ran the cold air intake to the fender. The noise is less.
 

ryan77

Well-known member
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Location
Cary IL
I just did my m1008 with the peel and seal and new black carpet helps big time with the road noise!!!
 
I used the aluminum covered roof patch stuff on my fuel tank when I had it out and repainted it. It makes great padding for where the original tarred felt was. I also put it around the sides as a chip and salt spray guard. Went strong all winter.
 

plym49

Well-known member
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TX USA
You can get the tar out with a heat gun and a putty knife. And a set of Tyvek coveralls. And time. Don't light the tar.
 

plym49

Well-known member
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Location
TX USA
And to the person who asked how tar or tar-like substances can work underneath, including to reduce sound, the answer is pretty good. But application is messy and the truck will mark its spot with drips of tar for a long time. For these reasons you are better off with plain old undercoating (POC).
 

HanksDeuce

Well-known member
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Location
Prairieville, LA
I removed factory sound deadening (tar like goo on the floorboard) from several cars that I turned into racecars by spreading dry ice on the floorboard. The coefficient of thermal expansion for the metal floorboard is different than the tar so after a few seconds of exposure to the dry ice it pops away from the floor. I broke up about 20 pounds of dry ice into what looked like snow and it covered the entire floorboard and some of the firewall bottom. I recommend wearing gloves and safety glasses because the dry ice is cold and the now rock hard tar chunk shards go flying when you hit them with a hammer!

I bought the dry ice from Wal-mart, but you can get it from shipping places too. The dry ice evaporates after 30 mins or so. Since dry ice is carbon dioxide I recommend doing this "technique" in an open area (i.e. open your garage door).

Here is a Youtube video of someone else using the same technique with dry ice.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fbb5dD98b5s
 
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