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Easiest way to swap bushings?

ramdough

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Anyone have a write up or video on the easiest way to get the driver side swapped? I did the passenger side once and it was no fun. Had to use a forklift to lift on the bolt tip then a sledge hammer to pop it loose. I don’t have access to a forklift anymore. The driver side looks worse….


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Keith Knight

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I just swapped mine out “Twice” before my trip.😖 l ordered a set of cab bushings top and bottom from Memphis equipment because my bottom bushings were falling apart again. I replaced them all 6-7 years ago the top ones looked great but I figured while doing it go ahead and do too and bottom. So I did……2-3 weeks later I’m working on my winch installation and noticed the top bushings were already cracking. 😡 So I decided to go ahead and put the old top ones back on. I thought I took a picture but apparently I didn’t.
So to do it remove the bumper. Then remove the nuts a large washers. Next remove the bottom bushings and the metal sleeves. Using the cab lift ram start pumping it up just a little then on the driver side I took a piece of 1x2 tubing and placed it between the headlight assembly bracket or whatever that is that holds the headlight and the frame and then used a floor jack under the tubing. I put the top part of the tubing under the cast steel swivel bracket. Then jacked them both up a little at a time keeping them even. Just enough to get the bolt and bushing out. The real key was to remove the bottom bushing and the sleeves in order to give the bolt more room to come out at an angle.
 

chucky

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I just took the infared light out of the hole in the bumper on D. side and ran the 3/4 in dr. socket and extentions up thru there and a long cheater pipe to brake the nut loose i had to heat the nut on p. side best i remember but not the D. side
 

ramdough

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If I recall right….. was that a square head bolt?

Mine looks really rusty and would not be surprised if I have to replace.


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chucky

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If I recall right….. was that a square head bolt?

Mine looks really rusty and would not be surprised if I have to replace.


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Mine was a reg 6 point nut spray some slickem of some kind on it for a few days to soak in and get a 4 ft piece of pipe to slide over your 3/4 ratchet handle you will need it to break it loose then spin it off with whatever
 

FarmingSmallKubota

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I broke a half inch drive trying to break mine loose. air impact, electric impact would not break it. Had to buy a 3/4 extension and a standard wall socket. Impact socket is too thick and will not fit. messed with it for half a day, sprayed with kroil broke loose in 5 minutes the next day I also took the front grill off and used a mini jack in that area to give some lift to replace mine. getting the nut back on was the real trick. took me three hours. hope you have small arms and lots of patience.
 

ramdough

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Location
Austin, Texas
I broke a half inch drive trying to break mine loose. air impact, electric impact would not break it. Had to buy a 3/4 extension and a standard wall socket. Impact socket is too thick and will not fit. messed with it for half a day, sprayed with kroil broke loose in 5 minutes the next day I also took the front grill off and used a mini jack in that area to give some lift to replace mine. getting the nut back on was the real trick. took me three hours. hope you have small arms and lots of patience.
On the passenger side the nut came off with a big cheater bar, but the bolt was rusted into the sleeve and luckily @fuzzytoaster had a forklift handy. We used the forklift and stacked sockets to apply constant pressure on the tip of the bolt, then I hit the underside of the fork with a sledge. It took probably an hour to get that bolt out after the nut was removed.

My driver side the bushing is missing and the metal tube is exfoliating. My guess is it may be worse. I am contemplating cutting it out then replacing the bolt and sleeve.

I have a spare sleeve, but not a spare bolt. Anyone know the size and hardware needed?


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ramdough

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Location
Austin, Texas
I broke a half inch drive trying to break mine loose. air impact, electric impact would not break it. Had to buy a 3/4 extension and a standard wall socket. Impact socket is too thick and will not fit. messed with it for half a day, sprayed with kroil broke loose in 5 minutes the next day I also took the front grill off and used a mini jack in that area to give some lift to replace mine. getting the nut back on was the real trick. took me three hours. hope you have small arms and lots of patience.
I have gorilla hands……

May see if my wife and get it started for me.


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FarmingSmallKubota

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Wapakoneta, Ohio
I have gorilla hands……

May see if my wife and get it started for me.


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Two people is definitely better than working alone. My trouble was keeping the bolt pushed down long enough to get the nut threaded on. after using some locking pliers to hold the top that was the key for me. but if you had a second person should help. My passenger side was a 1/2 hr job just used the cab lift and easy .
 

ramdough

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Ok, here is what I did.

Passenger side: pulled the nut off, used the cab lift cylinder to lif the cab front and swap was easy. I left the bolt snug but not tight. Moved to Driver side.

Driver side:

I pulled the grill off. removed the nut from underneath using an extension and breaker bar. I left the bumper on. Applied a little pressure from the cab cylinder. Then put a small jack in.

78CAF7BD-883D-4B95-BD1C-8901BA0A5F23.jpeg

I went as far to the drivers side as it would fit as the pivot tube bowed when In the center.

Swapped top bushing. Put the bolt back in. Lowered red jack and cab making sure rubber lip is inside hole. (I had to use a ratchet strap to pull the back of the cab over and used pry bars to push everything into alignment.

once all the way down, I cussed for about an hour trying to get the lower bushing, washer, and nut in place. Then tighten both sides.

Anyone know the torque for these?
 
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