Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Points for getting close. Isn't that the same as a participation trophy.LOL!! Hey, I'm a product of the north Jersey public school system !! At least I should get points for getting close !
Ummm, I refuse to answer that question !!!!Points for getting close. Isn't that the same as a participation trophy.
I think you will need to take it to a radiator shop. If the threads are actually stripped, you won't be able to tap the threads the same size as the cooler line fitting. If you crossed threaded the threads and did not get to far into the threads, a bottoming tap may repair the threads enough to hold. No need to over tighten the fittings, you can always tighten them up more if need be. Sorry for your troubles.OK, so in addition to a terrible speller, a Master Mechanic I ain't.
I managed to strip out one of the oil cooler line fitting bungs on the radiator (this isn't going the way I thought it would). The aluminum appears kinda of soft to begin with and I think I may have applied a tad too much torque when putting it all back together.
My question is....Is there a way to repair just the threads of the bung, without too much drama? I really don't want to spend another $300 to buy a new radiator and to replace the bung at a radiator shop is a few hundred bucks.
This is really beginning to suck. And, before ANYONE chimes in, I know that perhaps it would have been smarter to just get my old one redone (which is still an option). Be that as it may be, I am not ready to give up on this CHICOM one....yet. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
How does that work? I thought the whole idea was that the coolant in the radiator provided cooling for all the fluids (oil, atf) Just adding more hoses and more connections and the add on oil cooler is just adding for problem areas to deal with. Seems to me it worked all these years and parts are still available to fix it correctly. I know SSDVC I don't think he would like the add on engine oil cooler. I know I wouldn't. I have had them on vehicles before and they were a factory set up. Everything was well routed and designed that way. I would be more comfortable with SSDVC having a stock set up and getting it repaired correctly. He is not a mechanic and admits it openly. Good Luck SSDVC I was exercising my right to remain silent like you mentioned. Mumbling that you couldn't hear me don't count. And a few WTF's.Install a standalone oil cooler?
Before you say all is over I want to share my experience. I had this old lifted M1009 dropped off for many repairs and I wanted to share the radiator experience. I had quoted a new radiator and ended up with a fraction of the cost and a repaired OEM radiator. Check it out. Good Luck. I think you need a minor repair. (1) 1986 CUCV M1009 Decade after being wrecked. | Page 18 | SteelSoldiersYeah, if I do the Helicoil thing, I will defer to an expert or have a machine shop do it. I can't afford to keep screwing things up.
And Rick, honestly, that is the ONLY reason I am holding out hope for my old radiator. I am dropping it off tomorrow morning.Before you say all is over I want to share my experience. I had this old lifted M1009 dropped off for many repairs and I wanted to share the radiator experience. I had quoted a new radiator and ended up with a fraction of the cost and a repaired OEM radiator. Check it out. Good Luck. I think you need a minor repair. (1) 1986 CUCV M1009 Decade after being wrecked. | Page 18 | SteelSoldiers
Would be amazing for Alabama Summers though. It's been mid to high 90's down here for the last two months with humidity at 60 plus percent most daysGunny, I am not crossing off aluminum radiators............yet. It was my screwup stripping that bung out. I really think the unit I got, while not plug and play, is decent and can be made to work, with a few simple mods. And if I can make it work (being a shade tree mechanic, if that !), with the work you are doing on your truck, it should be a breeze !!
- One mod required is to mate the heater hose to the radiator. A metric to NPT adapter will be required for many of the aftermarket units. That mod is detailed earlier in the thread.
- Another one require is to adapt the threaded low level coolant sensor to the slip on nipple fitting on most aftermarket units. I took the old sensor and sanded the plastic body down so it would fit inside the hose nipple. Then I found a good fitting piece of hose and two clamps and BAM, done. Pics below.
View attachment 875326View attachment 875327View attachment 875323View attachment 875324View attachment 875325
- Last mod was to slightly bend the radiator hold down pieces (to hold the top of the radiator in place) to adjust the fit for the slightly shorter height of the aluminum unit.
Oh, and the nipple for the radiator overflow hose is smaller than the stock unit. Either finding a bigger nipple to thread on OR, what I was going to do, was just go buy a brass step up hose barb.
I will get the aluminum unit repaired, funds permitting, in the future (if all works out with the original) for a ready spare. While I am at it, and when time permits, I will also work on ALL the fittings on the aluminum unit, just to make it better. With four cores, the aluminum unit should keep my 1009 nice and cool (although that cold be bad for New England winters!).
Well Gunny, if your not in a rush, I'll be getting to the aluminum unit in a little bit and will post a conclusion.Would be amazing for Alabama Summers though. It's been mid to high 90's down here for the last two months with humidity at 60 plus percent most days