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ECO Hubs Who needs 3:07 gears?

Ovrlnd1

Ovrlnd1

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Colorado
Xengineguy said:
I’m in NE Indiana, and it’s been nasty cold wet etc. My tests to date have been dirt roads, paved streets pulling loads on trailer.
I’m sure when it gets a little nicer I might go North to Grayling Mi. to test it a little.
Your turbo should normalise for elevation changes, so you shouldn’t be low on horsepower?? I’m sure we will have more feedback and testing soon!
Click to expand...
Thanks for the response. I just posted below about the area/conditions that we are typically in and I know it's not the normal for most. I am very intrigued by what you are doing and will be following along. Awesome work that you are doing and I look forward to seeing your continued testing.
Thanks.
 
R

Ronmar

Well-known member
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Port angeles wa
Ovrlnd1 said:
Thanks for the response. I just posted below about the area/conditions that we are typically in and I know it's not the normal for most. I am very intrigued by what you are doing and will be following along. Awesome work that you are doing and I look forward to seeing your continued testing.
Thanks.
Click to expand...
So do you have an LMTV? Along with altitude, your biggest factor is going to be weight. With the stock gearing at a given weight, it takes X amount of RPM/torque. I will be curious how much added torque it takes to perform tasks. I have some pretty good terrain available on my property so That will be one of the first things I do when I get a set. Before and after testing on hills and obstacles…

the 1078-79 has about 21” of mid chassis clearance to transfer case and airtank frame if I recall correctly. As mentioned, a capable vehicle, but not necessarily the best rock crawler…
 
Ovrlnd1

Ovrlnd1

Member
27
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Location
Colorado
Ronmar said:
So do you have an LMTV? Along with altitude, your biggest factor is going to be weight. With the stock gearing at a given weight, it takes X amount of RPM/torque. I will be curious how much added torque it takes to perform tasks. I have some pretty good terrain available on my property so That will be one of the first things I do when I get a set. Before and after testing on hills and obstacles…

the 1078-79 has about 21” of mid chassis clearance to transfer case and airtank frame if I recall correctly. As mentioned, a capable vehicle, but not necessarily the best rock crawler…
Click to expand...
Yes, just purchased in January. 2002 M1017a1. I have started the build. Once the snow melts, in July at altitude, I will be testing to see how it preforms pretty much stock and then go from there. I understand the size weight and other limitations of these vehicles and do not plan to push it past its capability but I do want to know some of them. I also don't want to be stupid and throw money and parts at it, that is way I'm asking the questions now. I am very interested in the ECO hubs and how they are designed/built and the simplicity of the installation. I think it is an amazing concept, just not sure if they will allow for how I would like to use the truck. The end goal is to travel North America for several years, but we will see of course.
 
T

TomTime

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
MD.
Ovrlnd1 said:
Yes, just purchased in January. 2002 M1017a1. I have started the build. Once the snow melts, in July at altitude, I will be testing to see how it preforms pretty much stock and then go from there. I understand the size weight and other limitations of these vehicles and do not plan to push it past its capability but I do want to know some of them. I also don't want to be stupid and throw money and parts at it, that is way I'm asking the questions now. I am very interested in the ECO hubs and how they are designed/built and the simplicity of the installation. I think it is an amazing concept, just not sure if they will allow for how I would like to use the truck. The end goal is to travel North America for several years, but we will see of course.
Click to expand...
Sorry for the stupid question, what is a m1017a1?
Tom.
 
R

Ronmar

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Port angeles wa
Xengineguy said:
Ok everyone, please don’t ask about purchasing on the general forum. It’s ok to ask technical questions, how parts are made etc.
Just started a thread in the vendors for sale section, if you have sales questions I will try to answer them in that section.
If you have interest in a set of hubs please let me know in that section. Some of your requests were deleted because it was not in a for sale section. I will continue to post updates here, hopefully we all can learn something in the process. Sorry for the confusion.


https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/eco-direct-drive-hubs.213924/ Link
Click to expand...
Thats funny, I have insufficient privelages to reply in that thread...
 
Xengineguy

Xengineguy

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USA Indiana
Ovrlnd1 said:
I am sorry if you have already posted before, but aluminum or steel for the hub caps?
Click to expand...
The outside caps are aluminium, they have apx. 3/8” step that goes into the drive hub. Pretty durable design. The Allen bolts only
Hold the two pieces from separating, the step takes any side load or impact.
The drive hubs are 4140 heat treated steel..
 
A

art1078

New member
3
6
3
Location
Canada
Xengineguy said:
The outside caps are aluminium, they have apx. 3/8” step that goes into the drive hub. Pretty durable design. The Allen bolts only
Hold the two pieces from separating, the step takes any side load or impact.
The drive hubs are 4140 heat treated steel..
Click to expand...
Just for clarification does the transmission require to be programmed with these ? Or is recommended for better driving experience?
 
Xengineguy

Xengineguy

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art1078 said:
Just for clarification does the transmission require to be programmed with these ? Or is recommended for better driving experience?
Click to expand...
I haven’t had mine reprogrammed as of yet, I would like to. That would fix the speedometer reading half of what it should.
I would like to bring the shifts down 200 or 300 rpm. That would be nice. Short answer no not required.
 
R

Ronmar

Well-known member
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Location
Port angeles wa
I don’t know that you will be able to program the speed signal output, you most likley need to adjust the dip switches on the speedometer for the new pulse per mile rate, same as if you swapped the R&P in the differential… Now you may be able to alter the shift point criteria with TCU programming.
 
G

GeneralDisorder

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Portland, OR
You can also just use something like this to convert the signal to whatever you need.

SGI-100BT: Universal Speedometer and Tachometer Interface

Dakota Digital manufactures digital instrumentation and accessories for the automotive, motorcycle and car audio enthusiast.
www.dakotadigital.com

This has the added benefit that you can simply adjust it back to 1:1 if you put the reductions back in. This is my plan so I don't have to mess with reprogramming the TCM.
 
Last edited:
Wingnut13

Wingnut13

Well-known member
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Location
Strafford, NH
Heading off topic here…… but I’ve just come to accept that these trucks are build so that the average teenager can’t break them without having absolutely malicious intentions. That leaves plenty of performance enhancing options off the table pretty quickly.

Accidentally leaves the axles locked and turn on a paved road…. Bang hard broke truck. And on and on it goes. It just has “mechanical Nanny” built into it.
 
Xengineguy

Xengineguy

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USA Indiana
Did some more testing today. I don’t know if everyone but me knows how to enter low range in mode.
On my truck you push mode, then use the down arrows to select 1st. At that point you feel a shift. Much lower than the default starting gear in mode. The speeds I got were: 6mph at 1350 rpm. 8mph at 1800 rpm. For those of you wondering, I’m sure you can crawl
Around any terrain you should be on with a 16000lb truck.
 
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