I recently installed my ECO hubs.
Install,
he process was pretty straight forward, removed bevel gears, retorqued spindle nut, installed split collars, installed adapter plates, then installed the hubs. The part I spent a while was trimming the snap ring for the rear axle, I used a file and a vise to get it just right to plane it down to the right size. I found it hard to remove the trapped silicone. I used a small screw to extract the trapped silicone.Another part I found difficult was servicing the front hub. I took a 3/8 Vinyl tube cut a bevel then spun it into the servicing port. After install and servicing was done, I readjusted the engine ECM PPM to 31309. I adjusted my CTIS pressure to 70 psi HWY and over speed at 65mph.
Drive,
I went for a test drive, the acceleration was about the same, the noise was lower and the engine and driveline speeds were reduced. The truck was more slippery, it does not slow down when I let off the accelerator, I have the use the brake more than before. I was speed limited to about 60mph due to tyre vibration.
Observations,
The hubs were very well made, the fitment was almost perfect, the design was well thought out and implemented. It was well packaged and shipped fast Mike did a great job in building these.
Bevel Vs Eco
My my observations of the stock hubs and eco hubs is that the stock hubs are more resilient and resistant to vibration. The travel path of the torque is though both spline sets. The hub in my opinion was not engineered to take torque though the cap attach bolts. The stock hub gearing helps to slow the truck, the reliance on the brakes is more noticeable now.
Solutions/final thoughts
For braking, I used the exhaust brake, it seemed to help significantly. The hub even though it may not be engineered to deliver torque thought the bolts, it does not mean it is not able. The over engineering of this truck should be more than sufficient, the vibration I can see as a problem, I would like to upgrade the bolt to allow for a nord lock or have bolts that can be safety wired. I would also suggest to have an annual torque check of the hub bolts. Removing the trapped silicone and torquing the bolts dry and evenly is really important on this install. Another problem I see is when removing the tyre and wheel assembly is the half moon blocks can interfere with the rim. The weight of the rim dragging across the block may dislodge or damage those blocks and possibly cause leaks. I think a solution would be to have an alignment/thread protector on the 12oclock wheel stud to space the rim and prevent dragging on the hub adapter plate. The main reason for me to upgrade was to reduce the driveline RPM, there are many catastrophic failures on the 4x4 that are due to vibration. Any steps to reduce that RPM will reduce the chances of ending up broken. I would say the net benefit of cost, ease of installation, fuel saving, and driveline down-speeding of eco hubs outweighs the risks.