Electrical Gremlins. HMMWV M1097R1.

[Retiredwarhorses]

You be the judge, which one is Chicomm knock off…

 

[RogerThat!]

im confused…which is e new one? Aurora Cord and Cable is a legit mfr…
take a pic of the face of the switch as well, it appears they are both used…?

The old one is the aurora. The green one that is more generic is new.

The new one has steel washers that sit on the o rings. The old one didn’t.

 

[RogerThat!]

You be the judge, which one is Chicomm knock off…View attachment 902332View attachment 902333View attachment 902334View attachment 902331

Is it the one on the right? The inserts with threads look funny.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Is it the one on the right? The inserts with threads look funny.

the Chinese used to knock them off and only put the MS number on them, they were devoid of cage codes and other US company marking, even the NSN, now? They don’t give a s**t, I’ve seen chinese WS washer assy’s that even copy the cage codes…i only Try to use CARC painted and easily identifiable US made product, it’s getting harder by the day.
only buy from HPG, MAC or Kascar

 

[RogerThat!]

Wish I had known what to look for. But I'm a newb at this. I'm ex USN and USCG. We didn't have any HMMWV, or anything else like them.

 

[Milcommoguy]

You be the judge, which one is Chicomm knock off…View attachment 902332View attachment 902333View attachment 902334View attachment 902331

Monty, I'll pick door number two on the right for the trip to China Land.

Another way to tell, the bright gold zinc plating and soft metal screws they use.

Are those China com glow plugs in the background?

One is going to pay to play real HUMV, CAMO

 

[Mogman]

I will guess the one on the right also.

 

[RogerThat!]

Figured I would update this thread:

I installed a backup ground and gained back my marker lights. I did notice that all the bolts I was grounding to were not very tight...not even to the negative terminal on the starter. That was weird.

I have driver side running lights. No turn signals. Need to block down the brake pedal. I keep forgetting. Still have no headlights.

The light on the turn signal switch comes on but doesn't blink. I'm wondering if the blinker box got zapped somehow. I have the troubleshooting guide, so will try to suss that out.

I have a few bulbs to replace. Then I will really have a reason to bitch when not everything works.

 

[Mullaney]

Figured I would update this thread:

I installed a backup ground and gained back my marker lights. I did notice that all the bolts I was grounding to were not very tight...not even to the negative terminal on the starter. That was weird.

I have driver side running lights. No turn signals. Need to block down the brake pedal. I keep forgetting. Still have no headlights.

The light on the turn signal switch comes on but doesn't blink. I'm wondering if the blinker box got zapped somehow. I have the troubleshooting guide, so will try to suss that out.

I have a few bulbs to replace. Then I will really have a reason to bitch when not everything works.

.
Just remember, with the HMMWV the body of the truck is NOT part of the ground circuit for lights. All those light wires have a ground wire - like most other MV's - where the ground circuit is completed with a wire to the body.

.

 

[RogerThat!]

.
Just remember, with the HMMWV the body of the truck is NOT part of the ground circuit for lights. All those light wires have a ground wire - like most other MV's - where the ground circuit is completed with a wire to the body.

.

I better start checking those, too then.

Thanks for pointing that out.

RDS

 

[Mogman]

You need to get out your volt meter and see if you have voltage coming out of your light switch and turn signal switch to the non working lights, also have you checked for voltage in and out of the dimmer switch?
Have you downloaded the appropriate TM for your vehicle so you have a correct schematic?

 

[RogerThat!]

It is time to. I have a couple of the TMs downloaded.

This weekend, I will have time to dedicate. This has been really fun, but frustrating so far.

 

[SmartDrug]

Aurora is legit, they’re about ten minutes from me.

 

[RogerThat!]

Ok. Got some work done, and some progress made. I now have good bulbs (LED) in all sockets. I have running lights, turn signals, and marker lights, and the emergency flasher mode. The turn signal light flashes now instead of just sitting there.

I still don't have panel lights. No brake lights or tail lights. same bulb, I think.

No headlights.

Since it is 100 degrees plus with appropriate Arkansas humidity, I am done for the day.

I will take the meter to the hi/lo foot switch and see if I am getting volts there.

I guess I can rule in the flasher unit, thank goodness. Those are not cheap.

RDS

 

[Mogman]

Ok. Got some work done, and some progress made. I now have good bulbs (LED) in all sockets. I have running lights, turn signals, and marker lights, and the emergency flasher mode. The turn signal light flashes now instead of just sitting there.

I still don't have panel lights. No brake lights or tail lights. same bulb, I think.

No headlights.

Since it is 100 degrees plus with appropriate Arkansas humidity, I am done for the day.

I will take the meter to the hi/lo foot switch and see if I am getting volts there.

I guess I can rule in the flasher unit, thank goodness. Those are not cheap.

RDS

The rear turn signal lamps are the same as the brake lamps so I would start looking at the brake light switch (signal also goes through the turn signal switch)
Tail lamps are separate.
Glad you are making progress, when you actually troubleshoot the problem you learn so much more about your vehicle than just swapping parts.

 

[RogerThat!]

OK, checking back in. Had to do a thang with the grand kids over the last few days. Gulf Shores, AL. Pretty nice place.
Anyway, my brake lights are always on. And brake lights are the last thing holding me up on having the light gremlins extinguished. I think I need, to add reverse (white)/back up lights, but that is another post.

I plan to take the old brake light switch out and play with it. And see if the lights to out. And then figure out if it is the adjustment, or the switch is bad.

Either way, I plan to move on.

Got email that my SF-97 is on the way. So, time to start making some progress on title and plates. But that is another thread too....

 

[RogerThat!]

So, I pulled the brake signal light switch. I have 24V on one line and 0 on the other in the vehicle wiring. So I am sure there is voltage getting to the switch. The switch articulates smoothly, but the resistance across the range of the switch activating is not just O and 24V. It kind of cuts in and out across the range. And when at the extreme range of "pedal in" it drops down to 0 VDC and infinite resistance.

I think the switch is screwed up. Also, while I do have turn signals I still don't have brake light actuation.

Also, do these vehicles only have visible light turn signals when in the Service Drive position?

Roger

 

[Coug]

Lever has to be in "stop light" or "service drive" for brake lights and signals to work.
If your signals work, then it's in the right position for the brake lights to work.

 

[RogerThat!]

Ok, this is the update. Thanks to anyone still riding along...

I have power to the headlights and the tail lights, and the dash lights. I tested the big connector that goes into the back of the light master switch.

I have two master switches. One came with the vehicle. The other I bought.

Brake light switch and dimmer switches are good, bench tested.

Original: Headlights work. No difference between high beams and low beams. Running lights are on, but very dim. No turn signals. No brake lights. No license plate or back up lights.

New switch: No headlights. All the marker lights, tail lights, license plate light, back up light, work. No brake lights.

I guess I am lost somewhere in ground hell. Since I'm getting power to where it should all go, but it isn't going to the right places, it has to be grounds. Sigh.

And why do the different switches behave differently? So weird. Why are the headlights working with one switch and not the other?

Does my logic sound correct?

Thanks

 

[HMMWVNEWB]

Thank you for reply.

I think I better start by checking the grounds and making sure they are clean and making good contact. I imagine the dissimilar metals and aluminum oxide causes lots of problems here.

Would explain why one side works and other doesn't...

Hate to keep buying parts without knowing which really are bad. Was taught not to do it that way back in the old days.

great idea!