Electrical Issues (alternators, headlights, etc.)

[soldierman79]

Gentlemen,

I am quite new to MVs and even less adept at electrical issues. I have found several solutions here and am very appreciative. Here are a couple of problems I am having and I'd really appreciate your input.

- First, neither GEN 1 or GEN 2 lights will light up. I've checked them and the bulb filaments are still intact so I assume they are still good. I also took a bit of sandpaper to the board to freshen up the connections and still nothing.

- Second, while running the engine, the batteries are getting the following voltages:

Front batt = 12.2 v (i assume the driver side alt is bad)
Rear batt = 16.9 v (seems really high to me)
Across both = 29.3 v

The voltmeter in the cab doesn't work either. I have both of the relays (the ones by the starter relay) on order from CUCV Electric.

- Third, the blinkers do not function unless the light switch is on (pulled out). Brake lights don't work even though I installd a new switch. I pulled the horn relay and there is a rattle in there so I assume it is bad. I'm going to NAPA to pick one up tomorrow. The headlights only work on low but not high, whether the fuse is in or not. I tried new bulbs and dimmer switch with the same results.

Any guidance would really be appreciated.

 

[cpf240]

Always start with fully charged and load-tested batteries.

First rule of CUCVs: "if its electrical, clean it" ( and "if its rubber, replace it" )

Take apart and clean every electrical connection you can find.

Disconnect the batteries and then open up the connections at the firewall under the master cylinder. One bolt and it comes apart. Lots of electrical contact cleaner and a toothbrush, then coat it all with dielectric grease. Same goes for each fuse contact in the fuse box.

Anytime you come across a ground wire, remove it, clean it, reinstall.

Replacing the voltmeter, Gen 2 and horn relay's is a great idea. I would also strongly suggest doing the Doghead starter relay mod while you are in there. There is a diode on the connector for the horn relay that sometimes fails in a shorted mode, causing the horn to sound continuously. You can safely remove it.

There is a thread here somewhere about the instrument cluster. I would read that thread, and then clean the instrument cluster as directed therein. Also, don't assume that the bulb is good just because the filament appears intact. Test it.

After that, if there are still issues, its time to break out the test light, DVM and the troubleshooting guides in the TM's. Oh, and lots of searching on SS!

 

[soldierman79]

Always start with fully charged and load-tested batteries.

First rule of CUCVs: "if its electrical, clean it" ( and "if its rubber, replace it" )

Take apart and clean every electrical connection you can find.

Disconnect the batteries and then open up the connections at the firewall under the master cylinder. One bolt and it comes apart. Lots of electrical contact cleaner and a toothbrush, then coat it all with dielectric grease. Same goes for each fuse contact in the fuse box.

Anytime you come across a ground wire, remove it, clean it, reinstall.

Replacing the voltmeter, Gen 2 and horn relay's is a great idea. I would also strongly suggest doing the Doghead starter relay mod while you are in there. There is a diode on the connector for the horn relay that sometimes fails in a shorted mode, causing the horn to sound continuously. You can safely remove it.

There is a thread here somewhere about the instrument cluster. I would read that thread, and then clean the instrument cluster as directed therein. Also, don't assume that the bulb is good just because the filament appears intact. Test it.

After that, if there are still issues, its time to break out the test light, DVM and the troubleshooting guides in the TM's. Oh, and lots of searching on SS!

Already found the thread about it and cleaned the fuse box contacts, inside and out and added some dielectric grease.
Already found the thread about the instrument cluster and cleaned it up as well.

Even though the filaments arent burnt, if y'all think new bulbs are the ticket, i'll do it.
I'll start running through the ground connections and clean/reconnect it as well.

 

[soldierman79]

Ok, gen 2 socket has a 168 bulb instead of the 194. That's a start. I'll keep up the diagnosis. Thanks y'all. Keep the good intel flowing.

 

[mistaken1]

Go here and save the images. They should help.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/75505-cucv-wiring-diagram-color-except-m1010.html

 

[donalloy1]

Check 10 amp fuse lower portion of fuse panel. That one feeds Volt Gauge and other accs.

Just my .02 regarding dielectric grease. Make sure to use Burndy Penetrox A-13 or direct cross over. It is designed for copper and aluminum connections. I put a liberal coat on every connection I can get my hands on! It also has anti seize properties.

I have been amaised how things that did not work do now and intermitant problems go away.

Good luck and good Hunting

 

[soldierman79]

Check 10 amp fuse lower portion of fuse panel. That one feeds Volt Gauge and other accs.
Just my .02 regarding dielectric grease. Make sure to use Burndy Penetrox A-13 or direct cross over. It is designed for copper and aluminum connections. I put a liberal coat on every connection I can get my hands on! It also has anti seize properties.
I have been amaised how things that did not work do now and intermitant problems go away.
Good luck and good Hunting

Winner winner chicken dinner! Now I have a voltmeter! Thanks. Now on to the rest of the issues.

 

[Terracoma]

Brake lights don't work even though I installd a new switch.

Check the brake light fuse for failure, the ground wires behind the tail lights, and double-check the bulbs.

I've attached my most recent fuse block diagram, which is corrected from the version(s) in the CUCV Wiki. The brake light fuse is listed as "stop lights", which I'll change in my next update, along with several amendments and recommendations from Warthog.

...