Electrical Kill Switch

[CapePrep]

Looking for info on installing a simple toggle switch for security. I just replaced the key switch that previous owner installed due to the info I read about them killing the start boxes. Wondering which of the 3 wires I should use to interrupt the start process. I am using this switch due to amperage

Amazon.com

(11A)is the 24V supply, the other two are the run (29A) and crank wires(14A)
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[frauhansen]

way to week... you will neet something like this

With something like this you can disconnect teh batterie... easy way... and save!

The other way is to disconnect the "start" wire with a good 24V switch.. just i did. Tha makes nothing different than switching ON to OFF

 

[CapePrep]

way to week... you will neet something like this

Thanks for the reply, but the gauge of the wires going to the start switch are 14 or 12 gauge or so. I come from electrical contractor background and that is good for 15/20 amperes. So, with that premise, that is why I wanted to just put a toggle under the dash to interrupt one of the 3. I am going to put a kill switch on the batteries at some point, which I would use your recommendation for.

 

[TOBASH]

way to week... you will neet something like this

With something like this you can disconnect teh batterie... easy way... and save!

The other way is to disconnect the "start" wire with a good 24V switch.. just i did. Tha makes nothing different than switching ON to OFF

Or a switch to a 400 Amp relay

 

[CapePrep]

Or a switch to a 400 Amp relay

400 amps is not going thru the ignition switch

 

[TOBASH]

Frauhansen and I are recommending large caliber switches to cut ALL power coming from battery.

Starter can require huge currents. A small gauge unit will create a fire.

 

[frauhansen]

Just to avoid misunderstandings....
We are talking about two subjects here.

One is a fundamental shutdown. And this starts at the battery. So the maximum possible current must then pass through this switch/relay.
In other words, a battery cutoff. Accordingly, this must also be able to withstand the maximum current.
With the current that the starter causes in 10 seconds, you can cook three courses including dessert!
Advantage here... everything will be dead. 100% safe!

Option 2, ignition is the comfortable way. And that is the classic "ignition power". And here it is sufficient to connect the one line that is switched between OFF and ON on the switch on the left to a switch. However, this should also be able to handle 24V and some load!!!!
I have used one from an ignition key for a construction machine. I switch this connection on BEFORE I set the main switch on the left to ON.
This is not really safe as anyone who knows what they are doing can simply reach under the dash on the left and bypass the switch with a little time.

 

[Milcommoguy]

Looking for info on installing a simple toggle switch for security. I just replaced the key switch that previous owner installed due to the info I read about them killing the start boxes. Wondering which of the 3 wires I should use to interrupt the start process. I am using this switch due to amperage

Amazon.com

(11A)is the 24V supply, the other two are the run (29A) and crank wires(14A)
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Your are on the right track. 11A is an easy way to go. Since your not switching under load, the military specification STOP-RUN-START switch is doing the heavy switching. ((not a chineezze knock-off) Secret switch contacts need to handle 11A load / circuit. See my attachment for the poop on the factory switch. Don't over think the start requirement in this application.

HumV is easy on the current requirements to RUN & START. A quality Mil spec double pole single throw switch will do the trick. (snoop around at surplus store ?) OR go with name brand switch with waterproof seal or
/ add weather boot on the lever. Amazon wouldn't be my first choice. Plastic or those slide on tabs...no no NO.

Something like this

with one of these Double up on the contacts, in line with 11A lead.... DONE and good to go for a long long time.

Not the BIG battery cut-off switch killing everything, that would work too. Gets the job done a bit cheaper for a security secret switch. Note the headlight switch is still hot and ready.

Secret Squirrel Security Switch, CAMO

 

[Autonomy_Lost]

Your are on the right track. 11A is an easy the way to go. Since your not switching under load, the military specification STOP-RUN-START switch is doing the heavy switching. ((not a chineezze knock-off) Secret switch contacts need to handle 11A load / circuit. See my attachment for the poop on the factory switch. Don't over think the start requirement in this application.

HumV is easy on the current requirements to RUN & START. A quality Mil spec double pole single throw will do the trick. (snoop around at surplus store ?) OR go with name brand switch with waterproof seal or
/ add weather boot on the lever. Amazon wouldn't be my first choice. Plastic or those slide on tabs...no no NO.

View attachment 916870 Something like this View attachment 916871

with one of these View attachment 916875 Double up on the contacts, in line with 11A lead.... DONE and good to go for a long long time.

Not the BIG battery cut-off switch killing everything, that would work too. Gets the job done a bit cheaper for a security secret switch. Note the headlight switch is still hot and ready.

Secret Squirrel Security Switch, CAMO

Camo, I saw you post about this years ago and did this to both of my trucks. Super easy to do, effective, and zero issues.

 

[CapePrep]

Your are on the right track. 11A is an easy way to go. Since your not switching under load, the military specification STOP-RUN-START switch is doing the heavy switching. ((not a chineezze knock-off) Secret switch contacts need to handle 11A load / circuit. See my attachment for the poop on the factory switch. Don't over think the start requirement in this application.

HumV is easy on the current requirements to RUN & START. A quality Mil spec double pole single throw switch will do the trick. (snoop around at surplus store ?) OR go with name brand switch with waterproof seal or
/ add weather boot on the lever. Amazon wouldn't be my first choice. Plastic or those slide on tabs...no no NO.

View attachment 916870 Something like this View attachment 916871

with one of these View attachment 916875 Double up on the contacts, in line with 11A lead.... DONE and good to go for a long long time.

Not the BIG battery cut-off switch killing everything, that would work too. Gets the job done a bit cheaper for a security secret switch. Note the headlight switch is still hot and ready.

Secret Squirrel Security Switch, CAMO

Thanks Camo. Thanks for reply. I think I understand.....so the switch I got from Amazon, that I linked, isn't good enough? And I should use heavy duty connectors to attach wire? I was going to just make up a jumper with Packard connectors to connect to existing wiring than whatever needed to connect to secret squirrel switch. From your information, I just need equipment/connectors good enough for 20amps. And will look up a DPST switch.

 

[Milcommoguy]

Thanks Camo. Thanks for reply. I think I understand.....so the switch I got from Amazon, that I linked, isn't good enough? And I should use heavy duty connectors to attach wire? I was going to just make up a jumper with Packard connectors to connect to existing wiring than whatever needed to connect to secret squirrel switch. From your information, I just need equipment/connectors good enough for 20amps. And will look up a DPST switch.

YEP... IMO better to get a quality switch. Don't need a cheap, plastic parts or a spring... thank you amazon, in a HumV. Double up on the contacts, use ring and screws terminals with proper crimp & solder, 12 ga wire, Packard connectors maybe slap on some liquid tape ? Hide it, Plug and Play.

Ready to launch in 3-2-1-IGNITION CAMO

Some pictures
>>>>>>>> >>>>

 

[Autonomy_Lost]

Heres a tip for hiding the switch...instead of hard mounting the switch to a panel, have it free hanging on the end of the wires (with good strain releif). Wrap the entire switch in a bicycle inner tube. Tie wrap in place somewhere hidden. You can flip the switch "through" the inner tube.

This way if someone is rooting around looking for a switch, they are less likely to find it. Its hidden by the inner tube. The inner tube also protects the switch from shorting out on anything.

Just make sure its secured well enough that you wont accidentally bump it off while driving.

 

[Mainsail]

A switch that opens the neutral safety circuit is easy to install and effective.

 

[CapePrep]

A switch that opens the neutral safety circuit is easy to install and effective.

Very good point! That may be an option! Will look into that.