Electrical problem solved

[2deuce]

Working on a M1009 it developed a no juice problem to where it wouldn't have enough amps to turn the starter. It would go from not enough to being totally dead. I originally thought it had to be a battery terminal short, so I cleaned the posts and terminal connections so they shined. Turn the key still dead...nothing. Now I'm confused, maybe it is the negative connection down on the engine, but that tested good. All the terminals tested good for volts, but I couldn't test for amps except by turning the key where there was nothing. I should have power somewhere if it wasn't a battery terminal problem, so I took them off again. The pictures show what I had found. Hope this may help someone else, because looking at the battery terminal from the top with the rubber covers pulled back it showed nothing wrong. These are not the original terminals the M1009 came with, but they are the military style replacements I often see.

 

[Mullaney]

Working on a M1009 it developed a no juice problem to where it wouldn't have enough amps to turn the starter. It would go from not enough to being totally dead. I originally thought it had to be a battery terminal short, so I cleaned the posts and terminal connections so they shined. Turn the key still dead...nothing. Now I'm confused, maybe it is the negative connection down on the engine, but that tested good. All the terminals tested good for volts, but I couldn't test for amps except by turning the key where there was nothing. I should have power somewhere if it wasn't a battery terminal problem, so I took them off again. The pictures show what I had found. Hope this may help someone else, because looking at the battery terminal from the top with the rubber covers pulled back it showed nothing wrong. These are not the original terminals the M1009 came with, but they are the military style replacements I often see.

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Those look like the connectors on the M93x series of trucks.
That problem wasn't obvious for sure.

Glad you found that problem!

 

[ezgn]

The military connectors are the way to go in my opinion. I have them on my truck and I really like them.

 

[cucvrus]

I would get new battery cables made. And not that bolt on type. Get the type similar to what were on from factory. The less connections you have the better. Avoid crimped/pinched/hammered/ connections. https://www.delcity.net/store/Batte...Xfk25wcSVQBidOyBCKABJhDAKbUFc31BoCfmEQAvD_BwE
A good crimped/soldered and heat shrunk connection is best. If you peel back the insulation on older battery cables they are corroded inside the copper has a green powder tint to it. Replacing them with the correct size is important. I posted the kit above and have used this type on many CUCV's and other vehicles. The inexpensive bolt on type you purchase at parts stores are poor at best. they are temporary that many times get permanent positions. Good connections at the battery and tight clean cables can avoid a lot of trouble down the road. This is common sense for all electrical connections. Loose corroded connections g=create heat and just get worse over time. Don't hammer battery clamps on and twist them to make them tight. They can arc and spark and make matters worse over time. We have all seen bad battery connections and we have all seen good battery connections. Which ones do you want on your vehicle. Quick, cheap, and easy is never the answer. Good Luck.

 

[2deuce]

I prefer the bolt on military type. Napa sells a crimper tool so you can change the end. I can replace them easily when they become a problem at a low cost. Less connections are better than more but, they are easily removed and cleaned. If you have to hammer them on, or twist them to get them tight, you need a new one. I'm retired so I look for a good cheap alternative. If you can afford having new cables made, by all means do it. I started this post because what I found was kind of sneeky and unusual. If you see corrosion at your battery terminals, and they all eventually will corrode, don't fix it later, do it now.

 

[Rutjes]

I have those military clamps and I really like them. At first I got Chinese knockoffs. They broke after tightening them a couple of times. I now got multiple sets from McMaster-Carr for my K1500, M1028 and my friend's M1008. They hold up much better. Parts numbers MIL-A-52425-1 and MIL-A-52425-2 or 7738K1 and 7738K2.