Electrical problem with m1009 Please help!

[USAFjwag]

I recently purchased a m1009, guy said it would fire right up if I put batteries in it. Well, I did and it did not start. I knew the guy I bought it from too..ANYWAY, I replaced the starter bendix because under inspection it definitely needed replaced. So I did. Today I put the started back in and went to crank it, and NOTHING! both batteries are good, but I noticed only my GEN 2 indicator is illuminated. Gen 1 was on momentarily a week ago, and then went off ever since. I was wondering what could cause the light to not come on? Upon starting I noticed the voltage gauge only goes up to about 20v with key in on pos. Also after I tried cranking it twice a little while ago, I noticed the wait light stopped coming on. Any suggestions??

 

[CROM]

Check your starter relay. Here's a post outlining an easy upgrade: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/60960-doghead-starter-relay-modifcation.html

 

[319]

And double check your batteries. Be sure they're fully charged. The truck needs it.

 

[USAFjwag]

Check your starter relay. Here's a post outlining an easy upgrade: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/60960-doghead-starter-relay-modifcation.html

Does the started relay effect the gen 1 and gen 2 lamps? I know it stands for generator 1 and 2. Also would that effect me not getting up to the green on the volt gauge?

 

[jaymcb]

The starter relay shouldn't effect the Gen lamps, and until the truck RUNS and the gens are putting out voltage, you are not going to be in voltage green.

 

[USAFjwag]

The starter relay shouldn't effect the Gen lamps, and until the truck RUNS and the gens are putting out voltage, you are not going to be in voltage green.

Ok, thanks. So what would by chance effect the gen lamps, do you know? I have worked on cars and trucks before but never diesels, and never anything this old. Lol sorry if I sound like a newbie! I am thinking gens are the alternators??

 

[Warthog]

Welcome to SteelSoldiers.

Make sure you visit the Cucv Wiki - Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite (CUCV Wiki) that is at the top of the page on the CUCV Forum. All of the CUCV Technical Manuals are listed and many other helpful bits of information.

You need to download the repair manuals. You can get then for free.

The wiring diagrams are in the appendix of the -20 and -34 manuals.
Also checkout the CUCV stickys. It is where we try to post helpful tips and tricks.

Almost every question you will have has been asked and answered many times. The advanced search will become your best friend. Please don't hesitate to ask something that you can't find.

Read the TM 9-2320-289-10 Operators Manual to find out how a stock system should work. It is simular to the Operators Manual for Civilian vehicles. It tells you where all the lighs, switches, etc are located and what they do.

Three of the most important tools you can buy are:

Digital Voltmeter and know how to use it - ~$10 and up
12v Battery Charger - ~$50 for a decent one
Battery Load Tester - ~$30 for an okay one at Harbor Freight


Now to your issue.

Before you start any electrical troubleshooting ALWAYS make sure that you bateeries are fully charged and load tested. This time of year plays havac wit the batteries. I have seen new ones die overnight.

Sounds like your front battery is dead/dying and your drivers side GEN1 alternator is bad and needs a rebuild/troubleshooting.


And didn't you say in your other thread you bought the truck from a widow?
Warthog

 

[319]

Regarding the normal CUCV voltmeter, it usually reads in the yellow when the GP relay is energized, and in the green once started and running, providing everything is working correctly.

 

[USAFjwag]

Welcome to SteelSoldiers.

Make sure you visit the Cucv Wiki - Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite (CUCV Wiki) that is at the top of the page on the CUCV Forum. All of the CUCV Technical Manuals are listed and many other helpful bits of information.

You need to download the repair manuals. You can get then for free.

The wiring diagrams are in the appendix of the -20 and -34 manuals.
Also checkout the CUCV stickys. It is where we try to post helpful tips and tricks.

Almost every question you will have has been asked and answered many times. The advanced search will become your best friend. Please don't hesitate to ask something that you can't find.

Read the TM 9-2320-289-10 Operators Manual to find out how a stock system should work. It is simular to the Operators Manual for Civilian vehicles. It tells you where all the lighs, switches, etc are located and what they do.

Three of the most important tools you can buy are:

Digital Voltmeter and know how to use it - ~$10 and up
12v Battery Charger - ~$50 for a decent one
Battery Load Tester - ~$30 for an okay one at Harbor Freight


Now to your issue.

Before you start any electrical troubleshooting ALWAYS make sure that you bateeries are fully charged and load tested. This time of year plays havac wit the batteries. I have seen new ones die overnight.

Sounds like your front battery is dead/dying and your drivers side GEN1 alternator is bad and needs a rebuild/troubleshooting.


And didn't you say in your other thread you bought the truck from a widow?
Warthog

Thanks, I will be sure to do all that. I was just trying to get some quick help without having to search and search because I am not familiar with searching through TM's and all that. I did find out that GEN 1 alternator has been replaced with a new one. I just went out and tried to fire it up again and it is now making a reeeeeaaa noise continusoly from either under the dash, or that cylinder shaped thing in the engine bay behind the brake fluid resivor.

 

[Cucvnut]

warthog do you have that on word and just copy paste it when you need it lol.

 

[Warthog]

warthog do you have that on word and just copy paste it when you need it lol.

Got tired of typing it so it is a Notepad file on my desktop. Cut and paste, then edit for the the subject.

All the noobs get a copy.

I'm good but not that good.

 

[Cucvnut]

I was gonna say lol.

 

[Warthog]

Thanks, I will be sure to do all that. I was just trying to get some quick help without having to search and search because I am not familiar with searching through TM's and all that. I did find out that GEN 1 alternator has been replaced with a new one. I just went out and tried to fire it up again and it is now making a reeeeeaaa noise continusoly from either under the dash, or that cylinder shaped thing in the engine bay behind the brake fluid resivor.

The reeeeeeaaa sound is more that likely the GlowPlug relay that is mounted on the firewall. It is not getting enough current to work properly.

It is because the front batter is not fully charged and the GEN1 is not working so it will not recharge the battery.

Nothing about the CUCVs is quick. Driving them or fixing them.

 

[Cucvnut]

They are fast off a cliff once.

 

[USAFjwag]

The reeeeeeaaa sound is more that likely the GlowPlug relay that is mounted on the firewall. It is not getting enough current to work properly.

It is because the front batter is not fully charged and the GEN1 is not working so it will not recharge the battery.

Nothing about the CUCVs is quick. Driving them or fixing them.

That makes sense. Battery 1 Is brand new from tractor supply, bought today. Batt 2 on the other hand is not brand new and was dead when I first got it, it is on the charger right now. As for gen1, it is new/rebuilt sticker on it says 2010 the guy that had it before me had it replaced. SO my question would be would batt 2 or gen 2 have anything to do with it if the gen 2 light is on? Thanks for all the help BTW

 

[Warthog]

Do you have a voltmeter and know how to use it?

There are some simple tests to check the charging system.

The CUCV electical system is prone to having issues with dirty connections (as are most vehicles of this era).

If the rear battery is under charged and the GP system is in stock configuration, then yes the rear battery can be the issue.

 

[USAFjwag]

Do you have a voltmeter and know how to use it?

There are some simple tests to check the charging system.

The CUCV electical system is prone to having issues with dirty connections (as are most vehicles of this era).

If the rear battery is under charged and the GP system is in stock configuration, then yes the rear battery can be the issue.

Alright one more question and then I am done bugging you warthog lol. How to you remove the glow plugs? To run an ohm check? I tried looking in the TM couldn find anything though I am sure its in there.

 

[Terracoma]

You don't have to remove the glow plugs to test them, but you can if you'd prefer.

This post has a good description on how test them in place.

 

[Warthog]

Th TM does cover the removal of the plugs. Just not very well. TM 9-2320-289-20 ,Paragraph 3-10

The glowplugs are removed with a 10mm deep socket. If the tips are not swollen they will slide out. If they are swollen you may have to wiggle them back and forth and spray them with a lube (wd-40, pb blaster). They do make some tools that keeps the from breaking off.

Here is a thread talking about them

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/31462-stuck-glow-plug.html

If the tip of the glowplug does break off you will need to remove that injector and fish out the tip with some forcips.

TM 9-2320-289-34, Paragraph 3-47
Here is a good thread on testing the charging system

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/54292-cucv-alternator-symptoms-diagnosis-fix.html?

No worries on asking questions. It may take awhile to get an answer.

 

[USAFjwag]

Th TM does cover the removal of the plugs. Just not very well. TM 9-2320-289-20 ,Paragraph 3-10

The glowplugs are removed with a 10mm deep socket. If the tips are not swollen they will slide out. If they are swollen you may have to wiggle them back and forth and spray them with a lube (wd-40, pb blaster). They do make some tools that keeps the from breaking off.

Here is a thread talking about them

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/31462-stuck-glow-plug.html

If the tip of the glowplug does break off you will need to remove that injector and fish out the tip with some forcips.

TM 9-2320-289-34, Paragraph 3-47
Here is a good thread on testing the charging system

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/54292-cucv-alternator-symptoms-diagnosis-fix.html?

No worries on asking questions. It may take awhile to get an answer.

Thanks, any indicator as to where to look for the glow plug lead wire? Never been under the hood of a diesel before.