Electrical question, starter/voltmeter

[ClockworkSkin]

I have a 1009 (24v) that won't start. The voltmeter is in the yellow. I can hear the clicking of the solenoid, but when I turn the key to the start position, I just get a click (I think coming from the starter). I've spent quite some time both on this forum and in the TMs and I'm lost.

Here's what's going on. The batteries (I think) are good to go. I tested them both on their own, and under a load they tested fine. I also pulled the batteries and put them in a deuce and it fired up. I used a multimeter and tested each battery on it's own and got 12v each, and 24v together. The terminal boards both tested out as well. I think I may have a short, but I'm completely lost on how to go about finding it.

I just replaced the starter about week or so ago. I'm wondering if maybe I didn't install something correctly. Would the voltmeter in the read in the yellow if something was loose at the starter?

As always, any guidance is very appreciated.

 

[ClockworkSkin]

Oh yeah I forgot to ask. I followed the purple wire from the starter up to the T behind the air filter. There is some sort of a U that the wire passes through with a resister? that was wrapped in tape. Can anyone tell me more about this. It looked old and possibly a place that a short could be taking place.

 

[ClockworkSkin]

I just bypassed the starter relay. Same weak click sound as before. I'm going to pull the batteries from the duece and try them just for peace of mind. If that doesn't work a friend of mind suggested jumping the starter just to get it running so I can bring it home.

 

[ClockworkSkin]

Ok, new developement. I jumpstarted the starter. Actually, I hooked a piece of household romex to the solenoid terminal lead, and then connected to the positive of the rear battery (24v). This was enough to charge the starter and get the engine running. So I drove it home.

I'm pissed because I left my multimeter, and a pair of plyers underneath the truck. Fortunately, they were cheap chinese harbor freight tools.

When I got home, I turned the truck off. Then I turned the key back to the on position. The voltmeter went up to the green.

I'm baffled. If anyone has things for me to try, I'm all ears. I really don't want to go through this every time I want to start this thing.

 

[ranger]

check your connection at the buz bar by the fuel filter.
anther thing could be a bad possitive wire to the starter some time i found if they get hard spots in th e wire it may not carry the amps to start.

 

[5_TON_TOMATOE]

It is most deffinitely a bad connection with the main cable. I think that where the volt meter picks up the voltage, so bad connection or wire. Just MHO

 

[ClockworkSkin]

I'm pretty sure it's the purple wire going from the starter solenoid to the starter. Here's what I've found out from playing wiht it for the past two days.

If I take a piece of household wire from the back battery to the starter, it will start. Regardless of what the voltmeter in the cabin says (usually yellow). If I run the truck for a while (voltmeter goes to green while running), and then turn it off, the voltmeter will be in the green and I can start it again. If I let it sit, the voltmeter will eventually go back down to the yellow and I won't be able to start it again.

It seems that something is draining the batteries, but if that was the case why could I jump the starter right from the battery?

Oh, yeah, I have the full 25 volts at the buz bar. I ruled that out a while ago, but when I was tracing the wires back to the cab I got lost and confused.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Not a CUCV expert but 25V might be a little low to get it started.

 

[Speddmon]

I'm with Recovry, I'm no cucv guy, but if the battery gauge goes from yellow to green and then over time back to yellow, then it sounds like you have something draining the batteries. Check that purple you are talking about, take it off and sand the terminals and wire lugs and put it back together. After you get it running take your vehicle to your local interstate battery dealer and have them check the batteries for you...maybe one of them has a bad cell. One bad cell in one battery will still allow you to show "green" on the gauge since the gauges are nothing more than volt meters (when you're running, your alternator should be putting out enough voltage to make the gauge show green). but that bad cell will not really take any charge and you'll not have the starting power you need.

 

[mistaken1]

If you can take a wire off the rear battery directly to the starter solenoid and start the vehicle then trace that wire that during a normal start would feed 24v to the starter solenoid all the way to it's source of 24 power. Clean and tighten all connections you find.


Did you replace the starter relay under the dash? If not try jumping around that to see if it starts. If it does look up the doghead starter relay modification and perform it.

 

[ClockworkSkin]

I haven't replaced the starter relay yet. I did jump it in an attempt to rule that out. Last night I turned the service light swith to off (I haven't normally done that) and I was able to do a normal start this morning. I will continue to do that and try to determine if that is where my problem lies. I think I will also take the batteries to get tested because I want someone who knows what they are doing to verify they are good to go. When I tested them I used a $20 tester from Harbor Freight. It did test them under a load but I'm not convinced it's an accurate test.

 

[Speddmon]

I've used both the cheap testers from china freight and just pulled the coil with off of my car's and crank the engine while having a volt meter hooked up, which simulated a good load. The tester that the interstate dealer in my town has is way more advanced, it will tell you if you have a bad cell before it even tests under a load.

 

[ClockworkSkin]

Update. I ran it yesterday for a while. When I was done, I turned it off, and then turned the key back to start. The voltmeter went up to the green. Then I disconnected the battery terminals. This morning I reconntected them and it started up. I think something may be draining the batteries overnight. Can anyone with experience tell the best way to narrow down the cause?

 

[Wartburg]

I just had to take me main power line from for the block down to the started off and put a new end on it. (it was 7'6" long) I looked like someone had taken the starter off without unhooking the battery and burnt the line half into. I can also tell you that the purple wire that goes to the started should not be tested when you are turning the truck over!!! my buddy is still saying for letter words. If you are not getting a good connection it would cause it not to kick in. I also put a new purple line on the truck. I believe the thing your talking about being taped up on the purple line is the, in line fuse.

 

[ClockworkSkin]

Wartbug, I think you're right about the in-line fuse.

I did get this running, and resolved ... for now at least. It turns out that it was the batteries. I'm confused because I put them on a tester, that tests them on a load. I slow charged the front battery overnight and when I put it in the morning, it fired up. It has been starting without incident for a couple of days now. Thanks to everyone who weighed in. Hopefully I can lay this issue to rest.