Electrical woes...

[StoneMill]

The main switch is definitely off. Also, I replaced the harness with a new one that has 74a and 74b for the fuel pressure sensor that I don't have. Need to splice them yet.
I'll have to check the alternator connections better. Is it okay to remove the black silicone crap that covers the smaller alt wire?
Thanks for the suggestions so far.

 

[Barrman]

Don't go to the trouble of digging all that junk out of the alt connection. Just unplug the Pachard fitting for the exciter wire.

 

[glcaines]

Any progress in finding the problem?

 

[StoneMill]

Still stuck. Hooked the batts up with the alt #2 wire disconnected and figured out I have no power at the dash. Taillights work though. My bro in-law is a whiz with wiring (mopars and old vws) and said he could take a look at it for me. Showed him the diagrams and he mentioned how simple the setup looks. I'll post what we find.

 

[StoneMill]

Anyone have a picture of the main switch wiring. Searched and can't find one.
There are two ribbed connectors (#11) and two smooth (1 and 27). Which connections do each go to?

Duh, back of switch is marked a,b,c,d. I missed them because there so **** small.

 

[StoneMill]

Okay, got my main switch wiring figured out. Had it wired wrong. I'm thinking I must have had power going to the field wire, exciting the alternator, causing the original arcing problem. So, now that the switch is sorted out, I hooked my voltimeter up to the positive cable (disconnected from battery) and to the positive terminal on the battery. With the alternator hooked up the voltimeter shows 25 volts. When I disconnect the alternator positive cable the meter shows 4-5 volts.
Am I diagnosing this right? Do I have the voltimeter hooked up where it needs to be? I assume I cannot hook the batts up having the alternator connected without fireworks. Hooked them up with no arcing at all when the alternator positive cable is disconnected.

 

[glcaines]

Since you are not an expert with multimeters, (no offense intended) I would recommend that you use a light bulb setup like G-Force mentioned in an earlier post. I would recommend disconnecting the alternator wires completely. Do not start the engine. Connect the 24V bulb (or 2 12V bulbs in series) between the positive battery cable and the positive battery post. The negative battery cable should also be connected to the negative battery post. With everything turned off, including the master switch, and engine not running, the light should not light up. If it does light up, you either have a short circuit to ground somewhere, or something is turned on. If it lights up, leave the bulb connected and keep disconnecting wires from the wiring harness until the light goes out. This should show you where the problem lies.

 

[StoneMill]

Okay, I'm gonna find a 24 volt test light and hook it up in place of the meter I was using (between pos cable and pos terminal). The meter definitely shows a draw when the alt is hooked up. I'll post what the test light shows. Thanks for the advice.

 

[G-Force]

Sorry Stonemill but i was busy and couldn't get back here. With the test light in series you won't get the BIG sparks because the bulbs are acting as the load and they are using your short as a path to ground. If you say that you saw 4 volts without the alternator connected then either LOOK at the 24 volt bulb REAL CLOSE when in series with the + post and the + battery cable or switch to a 12 volt bulb with the alternator disconnected. The 24 volt bulb may not light up bright enough to indicate a draw because its a 24 volt bulb and 4 volts isn't enough to make it glow. But a 12 volt bulb will probably give you a slight glow. The alternator sparking like this.........you may have twisted the 24+ terminal on the alternator when you tightened the nut. Take your ohm meter and check for continuity between the 24+ post and the case with the wire off. If you have continuity take the alternator off and open it up. I'll bet you that you'll find the 24+ post has twisteed and shorted to the case. As for checking for a draw with the battery main switch off. there should be no draw at all. This means a test light shouldn't light, your volt meter should read zero and there should not be any small or LARGE sparks when connecting your battery cables.....I hope this helps you out.

 

[StoneMill]

Thank you to everyone who helped me out with this. In between having to take care of two deaths at work last night I was reading over the last couple posts. I had to take a look at things as soon as I got home this morning. Looks like now the problem is solved. Everything is hooked up and working properly. No sparks! In the end it looks like the alternator was shorted to the case as G-Force suspected. I owe you guys a beer next time you're in the area.
Hopefully we'll have her primed and started tomorrow and if all goes well (no more leak at the rear main or carrier), we'll have the tranny back in and be mobile again. Need to get window glass and paint the doors and bed yet. Finally feels like I'm on the home stretch. I've got a bunch of pics posted in my other thread if anyone wants to take a look.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/44036-1st-deuce-project-begins.html

 

[StoneMill]

Thank you to everyone who helped me out with this. In between having to take care of two deaths at work last night I was reading over the last couple posts. I had to take a look at things as soon as I got home this morning. Looks like now the problem is solved. Everything is hooked up and working properly. No sparks! In the end it looks like the alternator was shorted to the case as G-Force suspected. I owe you guys a beer next time you're in the area.
Hopefully we'll have her primed and started tomorrow and if all goes well (no more leak at the rear main or carrier), we'll have the tranny back in and be mobile again. Need to get window glass and paint the doors and bed yet. Finally feels like I'm on the home stretch. I've got a bunch of pics posted in my other thread if anyone wants to take a look.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/44036-1st-deuce-project-begins.html