Engine block cracked

[chemicaljohn]

So I drive the Deuce about 200 miles yesterday, get home and while tracking down an oil trail (thinking it was the loose dipstick), I find a 4 " trail of coolant about an inch forward of the data plate on the right side of the block. I don't have a pic of it, but it's in the middle of solid metal, or at least what used to be solid. It doesn't start at the head or any other spot with a gasket. I cleaned it off and put some dye penetrant developer on to see what it would pull out and I think that confirmed it with the big wet spot.
I'm seeing an engine change in my future. Which I won't have time for at least till Sept, then it's the cost and the equipment to lift that out.
Any advice and/or sympathy is welcome.

I'd assume a used motor would be more practical than finding a used block? Considering having to tear down the whole thing to change the block.

 

[glcaines]

Very sorry to hear about the crack in the engine block. As I see it, you have three alternatives.
1. Replace the engine in your truck
2. Buy another truck and sell the old truck as a truck with bad engine
2. Buy another truck and part the first truck out

I don't know the overall condition of your truck, other than the engine, to make a recommendation. Good luck, whatever you decide to do.

 

[Billy Bobbed]

I would try some aluminum stop leak to see if it will work for now.I used it on are race engine one time that was leaking water in the oil it worked great.I would try some sort of stop leak before I pull a motor.

 

[chemicaljohn]

Thanks Bill. I was debating trying something like that, wouldn't hurt for now. I'll post pics tomorrow of the truck and the crack. Truck's in great condition, parting it out really isn't an option for me. I'd rather sell it as is if I had to.

 

[Billy Bobbed]

We tryed the stuff that puts a coating in the cooling system it didnt work.You cant beat aluminum stop leak.If my engine runs good I will fill it with concrete before I will pull a motor.

 

[chemicaljohn]

You wouldn't happen to remember the brand you used? Did you have to run it with straight water for a while or did it just
go in with the coolant?

 

[m16ty]

There are things you can do to try and patch the crack. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't but it may be worth a try. I've had some luck with JB Weld. The hard part is getting it clean enough for the JB to take. You can weld it also but the engine really needs to be disassembled to weld it right. I've used some stuff called "liquid glass" also if the crack isn't too big.

The big question is, what caused the crack? Since it's not winter that would rule out freezing. Did the engine get too hot at one point on the trip? Are you getting oil and coolant comming out of the crack or water and oil mixed in the crankcase or radiator? If so the crack goes deeper than just the outside.

I've got a good running takeout engine if you need one.

 

[Billy Bobbed]

I bought it at NAPA its in a tube,dont know the name brand.Open it up and pour it in.Its all aluminum shavings,its not liquid.

 

[chemicaljohn]

Nothing seems to have mixed, coolant looks clean and nothing funky on the dipstick. Just coolant comes out, and from a
crack that I'd say is about 1.5" long, the coolant was a trail about 4". The whole trip, 2hr each way, the temp stayed just
under 200, around 185.

 

[Billy Bobbed]

We tryed that liquid glass wast of money and time.

 

[nhdiesel]

Having a varied background- years as a mechanic, college degree in auto tech, 10 years as a precision machinist, a bit of welding experience, and my whole life of doing booty-fab repairs to my own stuff, this is what I would do:

Take a couple pics of exactly where the crack is and post them here. Let one of the guys with multifuel experience weigh in, and see if the crack is anywhere structural, or just in a water jacket. If its not structural, but rather just a water jacket, I'd drain the coolant from the engine. Drill a small hole at each end of the crack to ensure it doesn't keep travelling. Grind a small Vee the length of the crack. Then heat the area with a torch, and weld the crack up.

Chances are, your coolant wasn't strong enough over the winter and the coolant froze, and weakened the spot, or even started the crack. Then many heating and cooling cycles worked it open until it started leaking.

I had an old Jeep CJ that had that happen. I got a used engine and installed it. It didn't start leaking until well into the summer, and I figured out the previous owner must have had weak coolant and it froze. That one had a crack about 10" long down the driver's side of the block. It started out as just a faint green line, and gradually got worse. I finally welded it and ran the Jeep quite a while after that.

Its not an ideal fix, and may not last...but it costs nothing and at minimum, could buy you time.

By the way, those stop-leak products do more harm than good. Right now you have a bad block, but good head, water pump, radiator, etc. Put that garbage in, and you will have a clogged radiator, deposits in the head, and it will eventually ruin the seals of the water pump. Think about if trying to use that stuff to buy you time is worth putting in a new radiator, or ruining spare parts for another motor.

Jim

 

[Oilleaker1]

I like Jim's post above. If it's just a coolant leak with no oil, no mixing going on, I'd weld it. You can't lose anyway ,trying. Drain it down, grind the crack clean and V it down some. Mig weld it. The trick is to only weld it about 1/4 to 3/8 inch at a time. Do not get it hot. You want to be able to put your hand on it shortly after welding each time. I'd clean the crack with carb clean before welding it. When done, re-grind the weld flat and nice, smear JB weld over the whole weld. I welded my hole, yes hole clear through my MB Jeep water jacket base. That's inside and out of the block. It's never leaked in 4 years. If you put JB weld on a clean etched surface, it works wonders. I'm not sure about drilling a hole at each end of the crack since I don't know what's behind it. Engines for our Deuces are plentiful right now so picking up a good runner and having it around might be wise. Shipping on them is ridiculous so look for one close you could go get yourself. Best of luck with your fix! John

 

[wreckerman893]

There are special rods for welding cast metal......as stated above you need to drill either end of the crack to stop it.

Pre-heat the area to be welded and peen (gently tap) the area as it cools to keep it from cracking again.

I would not mig weld it.

 

[derby]

I have had good luck with brazing cast. same prep procedure as above. I also have used JB Weld on a jacket leak with good results. Just keep in mind not to drive out side your "safety zone" you know farther than a buddy is willing to go to tow you home in case of a failure.

 

[derby]

Also, I think the cast rods are high nickle.

 

[tm america]

They make a block sealer epoxy .It is kind of like a wax crayon .You drain the coolant heat the block up with a torch .Then rub the sealer over the crack it flows into the crack like solder on copper pipe.It is a premanate fix .I have an engine builder friend of mine that can get it for you

 

[Billy Bobbed]

Id try that.Welding a block man I dont know.Unless you know what your doing.Now that JB weld sounds great.

 

[WillWagner]

They also make tapered cast iron plugs for block repair. You drill one end of the crack, tap the hole, loctite or epoxy the plug ant tighten it up. Then you cut the protruding part of the plug off, drill and tap another hole to over lap the 1st plug and continue the process 'till the crack is repaired. I've used this to repair blocks that were cracked into oil gallies, water jackets and to replace blown out portions in cam pockets and the sides of blocks at the rod big end clearance area...that's what happens when the tip of an oil gun comes off and the dufus oil changer doesn't notice it!

 

[Flyingvan911]

That's why I change my own oil.

 

[ernieflash]

I have been welding for 30+ years and here what I would do . I would make sure it (block) is not Corroded (rotted out) I would Check the Crack that is drill 1/16 hole at each end of the crack . grind the area next to the crack about 1 inch on each side shinny metal ,then I would bevel crack about 1/16 an each side to make a small V . then preheat to around 200 F to boil out and junk in the crack wire brush the heated crack with a SS wire brush to wipe all contaminates out of weld area , then would proceed to weld the crack down hand with NiRod 55 with DC electrode positive . small welds overlap the ends of the welds at stop and start ( be sure to clean the flux between passes and also DON'T grind the weld when you are done remember you don't want big heavy weld just enough top seal the crack and be sure it cools off slow don't quench whatever you do. just go slow and don't get it to hot Good Luck