Engine down, blew out all the oil...

[Awesomeness]

By 'residual issues' I mean that accessories, bolts and such were weakened/loosened beneath spec while the vibe was present, and thus still ready to fail even tho the offending vibration was removed from the scenario, albeit at a much later time. Those components are no longer torqued to spec and rated for the strain of service duty. That's what I'm calling collateral (long term) damage of the initial vibration.

Yeah, I knew what you meant. The failures we are seeing, in similar cases, from the driveline problems are metal fatigue failures in major components (e.g. engine blocks, alternator brackets, etc.), not the fasteners. They progress rapidly, and break in just minutes (e.g. 25-100 miles of driving). It's pretty unlikely that you would have several components that have started to crack and fail but just haven't quite finished yet. And there is probably a healthy safety margin on their strength, so if the vibration problem is gone, then even damaged parts should survive for a long time.

So what you are suggesting is much more the exception than the expectation, and you most likely still have the driveline vibration.

 

[ppillard]

The truck still had about 2.5 gallons of oil in it. Makes me optimistic that it might have dodged a bullet.

Found the leak, it was the oil line of death, as you guys speculated.

 

[coachgeo]

Sorry to hear. Hopefully engine saved... I'd suggest pulling governor and have it checked. If loss of lube in it caused much wear that may hint you may have metal flakes thru rest of injection system thus it would all need to be renewed.. But I'm no expert... Ask the diesel injection specialist

 

[ppillard]

Sorry to hear. Hopefully engine saved... I'd suggest pulling governor and have it checked. If loss of lube in it caused much wear that may hint you may have metal flakes thru rest of injection system thus it would all need to be renewed.. But I'm no expert... Ask the diesel injection specialist

I suspect/hope that line is the oil return from the governer? That would explain why it’s dumped directly into the side of the block, and why the truck was still running fine when I shut her down. It looks as tho it is fed from the front of the block next to the thermostat?

 

[coachgeo]

I suspect/hope that line is the oil return from the governer? That would explain why it’s dumped directly into the side of the block, and why the truck was still running fine when I shut her down. It looks as tho it is fed from the front of the block next to the thermostat?

if that is the case.... you definitely may have dodged a real big bullet

 

[Kbarnes0]

I'm going to check mine. Looks like a good candidate for a braided line.

 

[Awesomeness]

I'm going to check mine. Looks like a good candidate for a braided line.

Solid lines are generally a longer lasting, more survivable line, when you don't need articulation. They also flow better, so if you use a flexible line, you'll want to upsize it.

 

[frank8003]

Hey, ......................what do I know
But I know what I would do..........

Survey...... "oil line of death 3116" (governor oil feed line)

You just have to setup and account. I paid $21.00, new in the Cat wrapper. Just setup a login, your address etc and the prices will update. I ordered filters for $6.00 too. ok i will try that thanks

www.steelsoldiers.com

I would replace that stuff with SwageLok.
If ANYTHING happened to make a LEAK anywhere, anytime, I know to Look anyplace but my SwageloK ........................

 

[Awesomeness]

Hey, what do I know
But I know what I wouls do..........

Survey...... "oil line of death 3116" (governor oil feed line)

You just have to setup and account. I paid $21.00, new in the Cat wrapper. Just setup a login, your address etc and the prices will update. I ordered filters for $6.00 too. ok i will try that thanks

www.steelsoldiers.com

The next post, right after yours, is me providing a rather in-depth explanation about flexible vs solid lines.

If you change to a flexible hose, and your compressor bracket comes loose, the first sign you'll have of a problem will be a cracked front housing. But the hose will be safe! Logically, that seems like a lose-lose choice.

The steel line costs under $40, flows better, and lasts longer than rubber lines. If you're concerned about the one that is on your truck now (e.g. rusting around the fitting), it's cheap to get the OEM replacement.

 

[Reworked LMTV]

I thought undercarriage lubrication was only and issue for Detroit's

 

[Ronmar]

I suspect/hope that line is the oil return from the governer? That would explain why it’s dumped directly into the side of the block, and why the truck was still running fine when I shut her down. It looks as tho it is fed from the front of the block next to the thermostat?

It is the oil supply line. It taps a pressurized oil supply gallery that probably also feeds the camshaft. The governor oil returns thru the front into the timing case. The only plumbing connection the governor has to the fuel system is that it contains the Fuel lift pump. Remember the injectors ARE ALSO the injection pumps driven by the cam. You are not going to induce any shavings Into the fuel system from the governor. Any wear debris will find its way to the oil pan via the front cover... The Oil feed port is on the drivers side with an elbow into that broken pipe. The thermostat is over on the passenger side of the engine...

 

[coachgeo]

It is the oil supply line. It taps a pressurized oil supply gallery that probably also feeds the camshaft. The governor oil returns thru the front into the timing case. The only plumbing connection the governor has to the fuel system is that it contains the Fuel lift pump. Remember the injectors ARE ALSO the injection pumps driven by the cam. You are not going to induce any shavings Into the fuel system from the governor. Any wear debris will find its way to the oil pan via the front cover... The Oil feed port is on the drivers side with an elbow into that broken pipe. The thermostat is over on the passenger side of the engine...

hmmm.... so then metal flakes in the engine instead.... but small flakes in big engine components is maybe better than small flakes in small injection parts. If no engine damage from loss of some of the oil.... Ron; would just an engine flush be all needed to get out any debris or flakes suffered by governor loosing lube thus potential passing metal into engine?



should he pull governor to be inspected by CAT injection shop?

 

[Ronmar]

Well if no bearing or journal damage was done form the pressure loss, any metal from the governor or anywhere else for that matter will probably wind up in the pan...

 

[Awesomeness]

If no engine damage from loss of some of the oil....

One of my thoughts: Certainly the engine doesn't actually use all 7 gallons that are in the pan at once. The engine is probably only using a gallon or two. The rest is just there as extra capacity to rotate into circulation. So if you didn't drop so low that the oil sump pickup wasn't in oil, and there was enough to keep the engine lubed, you might be ok.

 

[Ronmar]

Well his knowledge of the event began with an oil pressure warning light so the pressure went below 15psi. That probably was caused by the oil pickup sucking air...

 

[frank8003]

The next post, right after yours, is me providing a rather in-depth explanation about flexible vs solid lines.

If you change to a flexible hose, and your compressor bracket comes loose, the first sign you'll have of a problem will be a cracked front housing. But the hose will be safe! Logically, that seems like a lose-lose choice.

The steel line costs under $40, flows better, and lasts longer than rubber lines. If you're concerned about the one that is on your truck now (e.g. rusting around the fitting), it's cheap to get the OEM replacement.

I would replace it with Swagelok tubing, not any kind of hose.
Would use SS-T8-S-049 with the two fittings would be about 40 bucks and it will not fail.

 

[frank8003]

One could install an engine cutoff in a Swagelock Tee at this particular place and save all the heartaches. I suggest everybody with this thing to do that $$

 

[coachgeo]

One could install an engine cutoff in a Swagelock Tee at this particular place and save all the heartaches. I suggest everybody with this thing to do that $$

catch 22....with an auto engine cut off ....when activated .... you are all of a sudden on a roll to a stop in middle of road; with out warning...... while less engine damage results... now your a very large death object in middle of road to other unsuspecting drivers.

IMHO instead install a switch that activates your low air buzzer and a second light that you know means oil pressure issue (not brake air issue)...... then once out of harms way; hit your power switch.

 

[Reworked LMTV]

I put rare earth magnets in oil pans. Tranny pans too. Especially trans with no filters. Saves thy bacon.

 

[Ronmar]

One could install an engine cutoff in a Swagelock Tee at this particular place and save all the heartaches. I suggest everybody with this thing to do that $$

But you may not have an oil pressure issue until all the oil is expended, at which time your oil light comes on in the dash. An oil pan level indicator might be better, set to come on before the pickup tube sucks an air biscuit...