Engine Oil Cooler Lines

[adf5565]

Anyone know if these LMC lines will fit the m1008s? My original thought was yes but LMC says 85-87 so now I’m not sure, but they look to be the right shape/style.

Mine are leaking so they’ll need to be replaced, I haven’t done a thorough internet search yet but rock auto only sells one of them.

1985-89 Engine Oil Cooler Hose Assemblies

Shop from thousands of parts and accessories to help you restore, maintain, and customize your Chevrolet, GMC, Dodge or Ford truck or SUV. Keep 'em on the road with the right part, right price, right now.

www.lmctruck.com

 

[Barrman]

They look correct. I have not personally tried them though.

Those oil cooler lines have been a hidden fault on the trucks since new. GM did a recall a few years after the trucks were introduced. There is a chance yours has never had the recall performed. Others have called local Chevy stores, given the VIN and been told to bring it on in. It is worth a phone call.

I am not sure on the maker, so I wont guess a company name. But, a normal seller of aftermarket parts for years was selling defective 6.2 oil cooler hoses. Several members lost either all there oil and there engine or just their oil as a result. Which caused myself and others to take our old hoses to local hose shops to have new ones made for us that we trust.

 

[cucvrus]

(1) 1986 CUCV M1009 Decade after being wrecked. | Page 18 | SteelSoldiers
Check out this thread. I have some really good tips on changing the oil cooler lines. Do it right the first time. I have had a few sets of oil cooler lines that need a minor tweak to sit correctly. And remember keep them away from any contact. Good Luck. Keep your eye on the small O rings on the cooler lines where they connect to the aluminum oil cooler lines at the radiator. Use line wrenches and be patient. No rush jobs.

 

[Skinny]

I remember replacing mine when I got the truck. Something about the ones listed in all the parts fiche online were wrong but there is a set of AC Delco lines that fit with some minor bending.

Probably bought them from RockAuto but maybe not under the 84 model year.

 

[WWRD99]

I did mine a few months ago but can't remember which part numbers I used. I should have them in my build thread though I'll look. Ok I looked and it shows I replaced them but didn't show part numbers...I used the dorman brand 625-154 and 625-155. Both fit very well with one exception...the bracket holding the lines to the block in the back would not fit so I had to make another that was a touch longer...you need that bracket to keep the lines from vibrating and possibly breaking the aluminum line...I just used a piece of 0.40 steel and bent it in a circle and drilled a hole in it...not a big deal and easy to do.

 

[cucvrus]

I did mine a few months ago but can't remember which part numbers I used. I should have them in my build thread though I'll look. Ok I looked and it shows I replaced them but didn't show part numbers...I used the dorman brand 625-154 and 625-155. Both fit very well with one exception...the bracket holding the lines to the block in the back would not fit so I had to make another that was a touch longer...you need that bracket to keep the lines from vibrating and possibly breaking the aluminum line...I just used a piece of 0.40 steel and bent it in a circle and drilled a hole in it...not a big deal and easy to do.

That is where the tweaking comes in place. And instead of putting the bolt from the clamp back in the manifold bracket I threaded a bolt from the back side of the manifold gasket and then slip the P clamp on the stud I created. Then it is a simple flat washer and lock nut. Sometimes you have to escape the OEM design and just tweak it a little bit here and there.

 

[adf5565]

Perfect, thanks y’all. I’ll order the dorman ones as they have been proven to work. I would 100% trade for a little bit of tweaking instead of leaking oil anymore, and I have the front wheel well removed so I have plenty of access to get them set up right.

 

[cucvrus]

Perfect, thanks y’all. I’ll order the dorman ones as they have been proven to work. I would 100% trade for a little bit of tweaking instead of leaking oil anymore, and I have the front wheel well removed so I have plenty of access to get them set up right.

Tweaking is fine but I don't want any twerking going on. Stay Focused and Be Safe.

 

[Skinny]

Tweaking is fine but I don't want any twerking going on.

Depends on who is doing it. But I'd bet all the money to my name that I don't want to see anyone on this forum doing that.

 

[Chunk ball]

My transmission cooler line (one from in front of the radiator-am i correct?) near the overflow coolant jug came loose tonight, what a mess. It did not have legitimate fittings. Someone cut the aluminum pipe lines and hose clamped some rubber hose there. So it leaked all the time. So I guess I will need to replace the lines with these Dorman ones.

 

[cucvrus]

My transmission cooler line (one from in front of the radiator-am i correct?) near the overflow coolant jug came loose tonight, what a mess. It did not have legitimate fittings. Someone cut the aluminum pipe lines and hose clamped some rubber hose there. So it leaked all the time. So I guess I will need to replace the lines with these Dorman ones.

The Dorman oil cooler lines are not the aluminum cooler lines that run across the radiator. The oil cooler lines are from the aluminum radiator cross over lines to the left rear of the engine above the oil filter. Good Luck. The aluminum cross over line can be hard to find.

 

[Chunk ball]

The Dorman oil cooler lines are not the aluminum cooler lines that run across the radiator. The oil cooler lines are from the aluminum radiator cross over lines to the left rear of the engine above the oil filter. Good Luck. The aluminum cross over line can be hard to find.

Update. Went back to check the truck. The passenger side/aluminum across the radiator lines appear to not be there(?), but the skinny two(trans cooler?)on the driver’s side are intact. There is a little external cooler in front of the radiator connected to the upper metal and rubber hoses. I will take a video.

Side note- pulled the glow plugs to rotate the engine over by hand because my flex plate has a worn spot (another thing i gotta fix); I took a photo to make sure they’re the right type:

 

[cucvrus]

Did you bench test them glow plugs? The 4 on the bottom look like they have issues. Good Luck.

 

[Chunk ball]

Did you bench test them glow plugs? The 4 on the bottom look like they have issues. Good Luck.

I will try that, thanks. I may have bigger problems, though. I pulled the glow plugs, in neutral, and can not get the engine to turn over by hand. Used to be able to when flex plate was skipping. Am I screwed?

 

[cucvrus]

I will try that, thanks. I may have bigger problems, though. I pulled the glow plugs, in neutral, and can not get the engine to turn over by hand. Used to be able to when flex plate was skipping. Am I screwed?

I am not sure I understand the situation. Get a 15/16" or 24MM socket and put it on the harmonic balancer bolt and turn it over. What are you trying to do?

 

[Chunk ball]

I am not sure I understand the situation. Get a 15/16" or 24MM socket and put it on the harmonic balancer bolt and turn it over. What are you trying to do?

Thanks, yeah I tried that yesterday with the glow plugs out. Not moving at all. Truck was running but then crap oil cooler line came unhooked, pissed oil and now engine is locked. Damn

 

[cucvrus]

Yea, Loosing the oil can do that quick. It probably spun a bearing or a few bearings.

 

[Chunk ball]

Yea, Loosing the oil can do that quick. It probably spun a bearing or a few bearings.

I am gonna start tearing down the engine. Any suggestions on where to start- Pull oil pan off and squirt some atf into the glowplug holes er somethin?

 

[cucvrus]

No, that engine is beyond the use of penetrating oils or quick fix remedies. I think when you pull the oil pan you will quickly find the binding bearings. I have been there on several CUCV vehicles I bought and repaired.

 

[Chunk ball]

No, that engine is beyond the use of penetrating oils or quick fix remedies. I think when you pull the oil pan you will quickly find the binding bearings. I have been there on several CUCV vehicles I bought and repaired.

Well, it will be a learning experience! I’m gonna use tow bars to get to my friend’s shop this weekend. Maybe I will make a thread with stages of the rebuild. Thanks for the help