mkskeet50
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I have a 1952 m135, it's a slow going project. What oil weight is good for the engine?
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Engine oil??
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SAE 30 from TM TM 9-8024-1 page 31 figure 20
the rest of the TM"s downloadable here ; M135-211 Series TMs
the rest of the TM"s downloadable here ; M135-211 Series TMs
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Porkysplace's link to the TM's didn't work for me so I'll try........
http://www.jatonkam35s.com/jatonkaM135-211sTMdownloadpage.htm
Below 32F I drain motor and trani and use SAE 10 wt. as per section 2 Lubrication and Painting, starting on page 117, para 69. to page 152. It's a good section to read because it shows where all 54 of my nipples are.
If that doesn't work here's the home site. http://www.jatonkam35s.com/
http://www.jatonkam35s.com/jatonkaM135-211sTMdownloadpage.htm
Below 32F I drain motor and trani and use SAE 10 wt. as per section 2 Lubrication and Painting, starting on page 117, para 69. to page 152. It's a good section to read because it shows where all 54 of my nipples are.
If that doesn't work here's the home site. http://www.jatonkam35s.com/
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They were from jatonkas site
nattieleather
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Anyone every play with synthetic motor oil in the GM 302? I wonder what weight one would use for that?
Section8
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I know it has been discussed on the site before about synthetic oils used. Not sure if it has ever been tried with the 302 but would assume one would use the equivilant to the 30w. 10w30?
I am wondering however if anyone has any opinions on the best oil for the diffs. The standard 80-90w gear oil or has others found better?
I read threads about different gear oil and yellow metal and such. Synthetic was said to cause leaks being thinner than "dyno guts" oil.
Just wonder what most are running.
I am wondering however if anyone has any opinions on the best oil for the diffs. The standard 80-90w gear oil or has others found better?
I read threads about different gear oil and yellow metal and such. Synthetic was said to cause leaks being thinner than "dyno guts" oil.
Just wonder what most are running.
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YkDave
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i run syn 0-30 in my engine for the winter, it leakes like a sieve with dyno 30w (i run straight 30w in the summer) in it to begin with, doesnt seem much worse with the 0-30 syn, but sure helps the starting at -30C!
In the Diffs and tcase, i run syn 75-90
Havent experimented on the trans yet, good ol dyno 10w30 in that, and its working fine, so no point in playing around.
In the Diffs and tcase, i run syn 75-90
Havent experimented on the trans yet, good ol dyno 10w30 in that, and its working fine, so no point in playing around.
mkskeet50
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Thank you for the help, did my first oil change it was very easy. I will post pictures soon
mkskeet50
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So the ups truck got stuck in my driveway, the m135 winched the box truck out without a problem. What type of gear oil do you guys use for the pto winch?
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It's covered in the TM's in the links provided above . Have you downloded them ?
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Lubrication chart
You pulled out UPS and if ya' didn't get pictures you need to do it all over again....we want to see it!
Porkys got er', access to the info in the Manuals is everything. Just looking over the lube chart in the attached picture should drive us all to the manual store.
I'm buying some time to work on my winch so asked SuperDave about some winch lube options. With 57 years of "winch lube technology".......which the TM's don't know about...... it's good to see whats new.
If the seals are leaky and winch usage is limited, some of the boys are using "cornhead grease" in place of 'gear oil'.
Here's a link http://www.steelsoldiers.com/archive/index.php/t-85973.html
To avoid confusion I will refer to the TM section that describes winch lubrication....once I find it.
You pulled out UPS and if ya' didn't get pictures you need to do it all over again....we want to see it!
Porkys got er', access to the info in the Manuals is everything. Just looking over the lube chart in the attached picture should drive us all to the manual store.
I'm buying some time to work on my winch so asked SuperDave about some winch lube options. With 57 years of "winch lube technology".......which the TM's don't know about...... it's good to see whats new.
If the seals are leaky and winch usage is limited, some of the boys are using "cornhead grease" in place of 'gear oil'.
Here's a link http://www.steelsoldiers.com/archive/index.php/t-85973.html
To avoid confusion I will refer to the TM section that describes winch lubrication....once I find it.
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randini
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I'm courious why you would use the TM's for correct oil? When the Tm's were written there was single weight Oil, now there is so much better oil available. Use a multi weight oil, and call it a day. What am I missing?
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I wondered the same thing.
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20110516131947AAN9vZq
If 10w30 is thinner than straight non-detergent 30 weight, I'm thinkin' old Goose's 302 would spit it out the rear seal sooner, I could be wrong. The wizard says higher oil consumption will occur using 10w30 vs SAE straight 30.
Checking the TM's is just a start, wading through the academic opinions on doing the right things for an old engine is next.
What's needed, is a "current products" crossover manual to ensure that everyone has access to the correct modern lubricants for their old engines.
It's just good to know what the manufacturers suggested about lubrication within the TM's.....then ask SuperDave what the modern answer is!
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20110516131947AAN9vZq
If 10w30 is thinner than straight non-detergent 30 weight, I'm thinkin' old Goose's 302 would spit it out the rear seal sooner, I could be wrong. The wizard says higher oil consumption will occur using 10w30 vs SAE straight 30.
Checking the TM's is just a start, wading through the academic opinions on doing the right things for an old engine is next.
What's needed, is a "current products" crossover manual to ensure that everyone has access to the correct modern lubricants for their old engines.
It's just good to know what the manufacturers suggested about lubrication within the TM's.....then ask SuperDave what the modern answer is!
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Kloakndagr
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Did anyone ever come back with a modern upgrade for engine oil?
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I like Diesel rated 15/40 in just about everything for summer and then 10/30 for winter. Please do a net search on ZDDP and its lack in modern oils now. Lack of this additive can cause catastrophic damage to older motors that have roller cams. Again do not take my word for it do some research on it yourself but be aware of it and save yourself a lot of money and work. Eddy
Kloakndagr
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Thanks for the info
Kloakndagr
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Any particular brand?
steelypip
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See critical edit made above. Basically, steel-on-steel rubbing (shear) must be below a particular maximum PSI in oils without enough ZDDP or similar EP friction modifiers. Newer engines use roller lifters/followers/tappets partially to get more aggressive valve timing, but also to remove the shear component of camshaft lubrication. Old-enough truck engines might be OK without much/any ZDDP (it wasn't a common lube oil additive until the 1960s), but it's Russian roulette for your engine, and there is no downside to using an oil formulated for engines with flat tappets and high valve spring pressures. 'Truck' oil works well for a lot of older engines - I have 1960s Chevies that are now on a regular diet of it as well.
emr
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Read the few thou posts on this,FYI... All oil is mixable and ok to use, any oil is better than no oil are some simple rules, I posted the numbers and letter on the oil cans , and there meanings, search and learn 
some are for older motors some for newer, there are no oils that will blow your motor. All will work," Like so wisely said above the TM,s for the straight oil is old," But it still holds true and will surly work, It has for many years in many climates and these trucks are still going strong, A multi viscosity oil is the right way to go today though, FYI, A non detergent oil is for a motor with out a filter, a detergent oil is for a filtered motor, as a filter will catch the dirt removed by the detergent, a motor with out a filter, the idea is to leave it there, You can think this thru seven ways to sunday, allot on this site and others way over think allot, but hey why not. Oil is just not that hard to figure out, Good luck.
some are for older motors some for newer, there are no oils that will blow your motor. All will work," Like so wisely said above the TM,s for the straight oil is old," But it still holds true and will surly work, It has for many years in many climates and these trucks are still going strong, A multi viscosity oil is the right way to go today though, FYI, A non detergent oil is for a motor with out a filter, a detergent oil is for a filtered motor, as a filter will catch the dirt removed by the detergent, a motor with out a filter, the idea is to leave it there, You can think this thru seven ways to sunday, allot on this site and others way over think allot, but hey why not. Oil is just not that hard to figure out, Good luck.
steelypip
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I wanted to throw another 2 cents worth in here because I was reading a TM last night and I noticed something interesting (well, to me anyway). The data plates for my 'new' generator (MEP016B) specify OE30 (or OE10 or OEA, for extreme temperatures) just like every other green machine I've ever seen. But if you read further into the TM, the actual Lubrication Order specifies OEHDO 15/40, which is 15W40 diesel engine oil, just as used by every over-the-road heavy truck in the US, and OE30 is listed in second place on the list. I'm guessing that some newer engines in the supply line require 15W40, so it is becoming the new standard US DOD engine oil, finally replacing OE30 after all these decades.
Any tribology engineer will tell you that something like Rotella or Delvac 15W40 will do a fine job for your low pressure/splash-lubed GMC truck engines. Between the additive package and the multiviscosity feature, it should have better lubricity, better wedge formation, and better EP protection at all temperatures than the no-additives single viscosity SAE 30 oil that QMC specified in the 1940s. What I found interesting about it is that even the Army is finally coming around to replacing SAE30HD oil with 15W40 'diesel truck' oil, which is something we've been doing in the civilian world for a decade or more.
Pretty much the only engine I would still run straight-weight oil in would be a two-stroke Detroit Diesel, which should still have the same diet of low-ash single weight it was designed around all those years ago. Even my lawnmowers, snowblowers, etc (splash lubed) are on a diet of either 10W30 non-EC or 15W40 diesel engine oil depending on what I have leftovers of today.
Any tribology engineer will tell you that something like Rotella or Delvac 15W40 will do a fine job for your low pressure/splash-lubed GMC truck engines. Between the additive package and the multiviscosity feature, it should have better lubricity, better wedge formation, and better EP protection at all temperatures than the no-additives single viscosity SAE 30 oil that QMC specified in the 1940s. What I found interesting about it is that even the Army is finally coming around to replacing SAE30HD oil with 15W40 'diesel truck' oil, which is something we've been doing in the civilian world for a decade or more.
Pretty much the only engine I would still run straight-weight oil in would be a two-stroke Detroit Diesel, which should still have the same diet of low-ash single weight it was designed around all those years ago. Even my lawnmowers, snowblowers, etc (splash lubed) are on a diet of either 10W30 non-EC or 15W40 diesel engine oil depending on what I have leftovers of today.