Engine Questions

[maritimer]

loosen the thre bolts holding th IP then rotate towards the driverside. there should be a nock on the IP and a corresponding one on the block you do not want to move that nock to much * i went thickness of a dime roughly and that was right around perfect for mine.

 

[Somemedic]

I do this with the motor running and listen to the change in rpms? When it idles smooth lock it down?

 

[maritimer]

DO NOT do it with the motor running very bad juju.
actually advanceing it will amplify the diesel "knock" .
loosen the 3 bolts gently rotate the IP towards the driverside so that the little scribe mark on the IP moves no more then the thickness of a dime then tighten bolts and fire it up. the engine will rattle a tad more.
i havent noticed any extreme power gains by doing this but there is a hair better throttle response and it was a bit easier to pull things with it * stumps, trees, weight sleds etc* for even slightly more power adjust your fuel screw located in the IP itself * instructions are in the Tech section under the banks instal heading* make sure you have a pyro meter if you go more then 1/8th a turn up.
if you were closer i would offer to do it for you LOL

 

[hobie237]

I think my harmonic balancer is wobbling a wee bit, are there any tricks I need to know in order to change it? Any special tools needed? I've never dealt with one before.

 

[Westech]

time to get a chilton manual. you will needs tools to take it off and install it the correct way, so not to mess it up. the cucv 6.2 is just like the civy ones (for the most part) so get a book that will cover the engine. 87 and down pick up/blazer book should do fine.

 

[hobie237]

Nobody around here has the manual in stock, I've been reading through the Army's manuals, though. Honestly I rarely actually follow a manual anymore when tearing into things, never really needed one, except to figure out if/when special tools are needed or whatever.

 

[gringeltaube]

FYI the CUCV manuals are all in the TM section. Look for TM 9-2320-289-...

G.

 

[CCATLETT1984]

FYI the CUCV manuals are all in the TM section. Look for TM 9-2320-289-...

G.

They are all in a post located at the top of the cucv forum (so you dont have to sift through all the pages.)

 

[hobie237]

I've got them as .pdfs on my computer.

 

[hobie237]

Ok, I'm going to be changing the balancer, and I see that it requires 200 ft-lbs. I also see that it's typical to jam the flywheel with a pry bar or whatever to achieve that amount of torque, a couple of questions:

1. How accurate does the 200 ft-lbs have to be? It's near the end of the scale of my torque wrench, and torque wrenches are notoriously inaccurate near the ends of their scales. I'll be using some threadlocker on it, for what it's worth.

2. Can the crank bolt be reused? I've seen nothing to indicate to the contrary, just curious.

3. I see that you're supposed to jam the flywheel with a pry bar, and to do so by removing the lower bellhousing cover. This is also referred to as the torque converter cover. Is it a simple matter of removing this cover and inserting a pry bar, or is there more to it? Any fluids to drain/replace?

Thanks everyone.

 

[CCATLETT1984]

1: get it as close as you can +/- 10ft lbs aint gonna make it fly off.


2: Can be re-used as long as its not buggered up, if the head is rounded off at all replace it.

3: Its just removing a few bolts and dropping the cover (no fluid will come out), sometimes the transmission cooler lines are in the way of it coming down, just unbolt the tab holding the lines near where you need to move them, and they will move enough to get it out.

 

[hobie237]

Very cool, thanks.

 

[CCATLETT1984]

while you have that cover off, its a great time to look at the bolts on the torque converter, make sure they are tight to spec.