Engine shut off delay?

[2INSANE]

So my motor started to have a 5 second delay when I turn the key to the off position. It won’t turn off for 5 seconds after I turned the key off.
Where to start?

 

[Barrman]

Pull the pink wire from the IP with it running. If it shuts off immediately then the problem is on the truck wiring side. If it delays then the problem is inside the IP.

 

[2INSANE]

Pull the pink wire from the IP with it running. If it shuts off immediately then the problem is on the truck wiring side. If it delays then the problem is inside the IP.

Ok. So if it is the IP, what do I need to replace?
If not the IP, what could it be? Just thinking ahead of the game.

 

[Keith_J]

The device inside the injection pump which shuts off the fuel flow is an electromagnet with a spring loaded plunger. 12 volts applied to the pink wire retracts the plunger against the spring force, allowing the metering valve to open. Likewise, when power to this terminal is cut, the spring forces the plunger to close the metering valve.

Some early solenoids can get dirty and this slows or stops the plunger movement. It can be cleaned, new quality parts are under $100 and easily swapped. Part number is 26214, SOLENOID 12V ETR. Replacing the governor cover seal is recommended, 27244 . Reinstalling the governor cover requires care, place the cover on in a forward position and slide back.

 

[2INSANE]

The device inside the injection pump which shuts off the fuel flow is an electromagnet with a spring loaded plunger. 12 volts applied to the pink wire retracts the plunger against the spring force, allowing the metering valve to open. Likewise, when power to this terminal is cut, the spring forces the plunger to close the metering valve.

Some early solenoids can get dirty and this slows or stops the plunger movement. It can be cleaned, new quality parts are under $100 and easily swapped. Part number is 26214, SOLENOID 12V ETR. Replacing the governor cover seal is recommended, 27244 . Reinstalling the governor cover requires care, place the cover on in a forward position and slide back.

Ok. Thanks for letting me know! Much cheaper then a whole new IP!

 

[Barrman]

Keith explained the IP side. The truck wiring side is a bunch of could be things.

It could be the actual ignition switch which is down at the bottom of the steering column is a bit out of adjustment in relation to the rod that comes from the keyed ignition cylinder.

It could be one of your alternator exciter wires is somehow cross connected to another wire which will keep voltage in the IP pink wire until the alternators wind down below 8.0 volts or so.

It could be an alternator relay is sticking open and doing the same as the line above.

It could be your key cylinder is worn and not really getting all the way to off.

There are probably a dozen more things it could be. Don't forget the short between the steering wheel and the seat. This could be all in your head after all.

 

[2INSANE]

Keith explained the IP side. The truck wiring side is a bunch of could be things.

It could be the actual ignition switch which is down at the bottom of the steering column is a bit out of adjustment in relation to the rod that comes from the keyed ignition cylinder.

It could be one of your alternator exciter wires is somehow cross connected to another wire which will keep voltage in the IP pink wire until the alternators wind down below 8.0 volts or so.

It could be an alternator relay is sticking open and doing the same as the line above.

It could be your key cylinder is worn and not really getting all the way to off.

There are probably a dozen more things it could be. Don't forget the short between the steering wheel and the seat. This could be all in your head after all.

Ok cool! Thanks for letting me know! I will tackle this issue and a few other things this weekend!

 

[Mainsail]

In the meantime, throw a pair of vice-grips under the seat. If you're out and about and the truck fails to shut off at all, pinch the feed line to the IP.

Also, "inside the IP" isn't as daunting as it sounds because the shutoff solenoid has it's own little compartment. Mine has security torx screws holding the cover on, so be prepared for that.

 

[Barrman]

Agree. The shut off solenoid is easy to do once you pull the top cover. I had a newly rebuilt pump not turn off the first time I started the engine with it. The pliers turned it off and stayed in the truck for a week until the new solenoid showed up.

 

[Keith_J]

The ETR solenoid is an electromagnet when the engine is running, meaning it will attract all of the wear particles from the transfer pump, cam ring, timing plunger and governor. These items are hardened steel, the wear particles are sub micron sludge. There is enough residual magnetism to hold the sludge in place when the engine is off, this is the most likely cause.

This also means the pump has wear issues. Swapping the ETR solenoid in the pump is just a patch, the pump will need complete overhaul in the near future.