gimpyrobb
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Thanks, that would be great James.
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Engine stand drawings for Deuce?
- Thread starter Mark3395
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jimbob1111
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Got the camera running & took some better pics of the stand.
The way this one's set up:
The ring gear has a shaft collar welded to it with 2 keyway slots in it.
The shaft has 2 matching keyway slots in it, 2 allen set screws secure them together.
The lock collars outside the box on the shaft are used for end play, kinda like thrust bearings.
The rusty looking piece between the shaftcollars is the outer support & lock. It's ID matches the shaft OD, it has a slot cut in it with a bolt, if you tighten the bolt it cinches the shaft to keep it from turning.
The bottom of it is hooked to the ram of the 5 ton jack. If you have a engine side mounted sometimes you need to jack it up so there's vertical clearence to rotate it.
THAT SHAFT IS ABOUT 3" OF SOLID STEEL! The thin part of the rotating end where the bolts go through is 1 1/4" thick.
My thoughts are FWIW, weld a shaft collar keyed to match your gearbox to the tube, fab up a mount to secure gear box to upright part of stand. Put a grease fitting in the outer tube and maybe a brake. The brake on mine seems like overkill. I've never used it, the gearbox on mine is a worm gear & holds things ok for me, 6BTA is only about 1000 Lbs though.
James
The way this one's set up:
The ring gear has a shaft collar welded to it with 2 keyway slots in it.
The shaft has 2 matching keyway slots in it, 2 allen set screws secure them together.
The lock collars outside the box on the shaft are used for end play, kinda like thrust bearings.
The rusty looking piece between the shaftcollars is the outer support & lock. It's ID matches the shaft OD, it has a slot cut in it with a bolt, if you tighten the bolt it cinches the shaft to keep it from turning.
The bottom of it is hooked to the ram of the 5 ton jack. If you have a engine side mounted sometimes you need to jack it up so there's vertical clearence to rotate it.
THAT SHAFT IS ABOUT 3" OF SOLID STEEL! The thin part of the rotating end where the bolts go through is 1 1/4" thick.
My thoughts are FWIW, weld a shaft collar keyed to match your gearbox to the tube, fab up a mount to secure gear box to upright part of stand. Put a grease fitting in the outer tube and maybe a brake. The brake on mine seems like overkill. I've never used it, the gearbox on mine is a worm gear & holds things ok for me, 6BTA is only about 1000 Lbs though.
James
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gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Cool beans, thats what I needed to know to start planning how to use the gearhead. Do you happen to know whar gear ratio is used on your motor stand?
jimbob1111
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Hi,
Not marked anywhere but, 15 handle turns rotated engine 90°
So it's 60:1
James
Not marked anywhere but, 15 handle turns rotated engine 90°
So it's 60:1
James
citizensoldier
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The beginning stages of a poor mans M series motor stand. Phase two will consist of test stand radiator, gauges,and rotisserie.![[thumbzup]](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumzup.gif "Thumbs Up [thumbzup]")
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JOAT 0311
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I like the poor mans stand have you gotten any farther on it? More pictures please.
Steaminjim
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That one looks strong enough.
Nice job.
Jim
Nice job.
Jim
bones1
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Have we finished any of these stands?. Pic please.
Mark3395
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This thread has stretched out a long time.
I've managed to buy 3 engine rotisseries since I raised the issue... and am working to exchange 1 for adapters for the other two. Hope to have two engines on stands to work into one working engine. Will see how that goes. Expensive buggers.
I'm parting out a few donor trucks this summer and plan to use a stripped cab and shortened frame as a test bed... something fast to drop an engine into and test it. Remove rear axle and minimoze the frame, remove bumper brackets from the front. Will likely use garden hose to flow water into the engine rather than a radiator.
I've managed to buy 3 engine rotisseries since I raised the issue... and am working to exchange 1 for adapters for the other two. Hope to have two engines on stands to work into one working engine. Will see how that goes. Expensive buggers.
I'm parting out a few donor trucks this summer and plan to use a stripped cab and shortened frame as a test bed... something fast to drop an engine into and test it. Remove rear axle and minimoze the frame, remove bumper brackets from the front. Will likely use garden hose to flow water into the engine rather than a radiator.