engine starts and runs but no power

[coyote_hunter]

I bought an m1008 about a month ago and have only had problems with it since. When I got it, it ran fine the day I picked up. The guy told me he had never had fuel conditioner in it. It was suppose to get cold here so I added conditioner to it. A few days later it would start and run for about 5 mins and then act like it wasn't getting fuel and would only idle, and sometimes die. After I would shut it off for a few mins it would start back up and fun for a couple mins before it would do it again. It was acting like it was gelled up, so I drained the tank and replaced the fuel filter, and added an electric fuel pump and an inline filter. This didn't help, ran fine for about 5 mins and then stalled. Also it seems to smoke a lot on start up, and then will quit smoking, but when it starts to stall it starts smoking bad again. The smoke is blue.

Any suggestions where to go from here?

 

[mistaken1]

Way back when Mr. Stinson taught that white smoke is water, blue smoke is oil and black smoke is unburned fuel although that was for gasoline engines.

I am still learning about diesels but as I understand it in a diesel white smoke is unburned fuel (not running) and black smoke is insufficient air (running). I assume blue smoke is still oil and while running white smoke could still be water.

Did you check/clean the return check valve at the IP?

Sorry I cannot be of more help, others on here will chime in with good advice.

 

[coyote_hunter]

The check valve is my next step, i found a thread on here that suggested this to be a solution. I'll let you know if it was the problem.

 

[southdave]

clean the CDR valve and air filter

 

[coyote_hunter]

The fitting on the top of the IP where the return line comes out was plugged, I broker the glass out in the valve and it ran great. Here is a link to a thread that has the solution.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/1...ate-wont-rev-neutral-until-rpms-creep-up.html

 

[markg]

The fitting on the top of the IP where the return line comes out was plugged, I broker the glass out in the valve and it ran great. Here is a link to a thread that has the solution.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/1...ate-wont-rev-neutral-until-rpms-creep-up.html

plan on rebuilding the pump, it will plug up again. the flex ring is coming apart inside the pump.

 

[coyote_hunter]

plan on rebuilding the pump, it will plug up again. the flex ring is coming apart inside the pump.

Is it possible that adding conditioner to the fuel for the 1st time was the cause of this valve plugging, or is that just wishful thinking? The truck has 37K on it, but I know time is probably more important.

 

[markg]

Is it possible that adding conditioner to the fuel for the 1st time was the cause of this valve plugging, or is that just wishful thinking? The truck has 37K on it, but I know time is probably more important.

when you gutted the check valve that was a temporary fix at best, if you plan on keeping the truck rebuild the pump. gm had a problem in 84-85 with all 6.2 diesel pumps.

 

[Warthog]

Is it possible that adding conditioner to the fuel for the 1st time was the cause of this valve plugging, or is that just wishful thinking? The truck has 37K on it, but I know time is probably more important.

The conditioner just lossened up some crud. The mileage has nothing to do with whether or not a pump needs rebuilding. Age does. These trucks are 25+ years old and they have sat for along time. The rubber flex ring won't last forever. Consider rubber hoses. How ling do they last?

And by removing the glass checkball, when you do rebuild the pump, you will have to replace the check valve for the truck to funtion as designed.

Not saying it won't "work", just not operating as designed. Stanadyne puts that check valve there for a reason.

 

[coyote_hunter]

I've got one laying on the shelf, but I just didn't want to replace this one if I could get another year or 2 out of it. I'll probably plan on replacing it sometime this summer if you think it's on the way out.