Engine swap poll

[Skinny]

I don't think you can go wrong with an LS for pretty much every reason. You can play the game of what happens if...

Well if your injection pump solenoid fails or an LS needs a throttle position sensor. Let me know which one you can have in your hand first.

I think the other part of the equation is transmission choice. The TH400 although bulletproof is a turd. The 4L80 is a far superior choice. But now that the average cruise speed on the highway is like 80 mph I would seriously consider a 6L80.

Not that I would want to swap it into a driveline that didn't come stock with it, it's a great choice. Sure if you need a standalone computer and harness it could be cost prohibited. But if you buy a 5.3 that comes with one that is a great option.

Way better step on gear ratios then a 4L80, way lower first gear, and two way taller overdrives. If you aren't going for a zombie apocalypse build, I'd consider this as a necessity if doing a non big block LS.

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[chevymike]

Originally I voted new or rebuilt 6.5 but changed to used gasser. Myself, I have picked up a Gen VI 454 big block Chevy that will replace the 6.2L. I am going to use an old school GM TBI system as they are dead simple, reliable and very easy to get parts for. It will have way more HP than a stock 6.2L and about the same torque. Sure it won't see as good of mileage but with the brick of a M1010, it never will.

Since I am building my rig for very remote camping and a lot of state to state traveling, finding engine parts for a 454 is some small town is much more likely than finding anything for a 6.2L. Another benefit is it is much easier to find gas than diesel. I almost got burnt on this in Death Valley with my 12v Cummins Ram. Been out camping for a couple days with my group and we hit one of the very few gas stations in the park. Everyone else had gas trucks and was able to fill up but I could not as they did not offer diesel. We had to go another 30 minutes south to get to a station with diesel. Had they not been open or out of diesel, I would have been screwed.

 

[Jeepadict]

Another vote here for the LS/4L camp for the same reasons. I'm partial to the 03-07 powertrains. A stock 6.0 makes the same/similar numbers as a built SBC with far better efficiency...best said, "It's a better mousetrap".

I have a 78 K25 for my Squarebody afflictions and plow truck (not a CUCV, but damn close...a reinforced framed retired repo truck) that I dream about a LS swap, tho I lean heavily on the 6.0 I occasionally drool thinking about a 00/01/02 8.1/4L85/Autotrac combo from a 2500 Suburban. I can get a 2500 4wd work truck out of Phoenix from an insurance auction for stoopid-cheap...whole truck for far less than a GM Performance Parts 383HO.

I currently have an 03 Dmax as my daily, and an 03 2500 Quadrasteer Suburban 6.0/4L80 that is my baby. The Dmax has been a 430,000 mile revival that has been rewarding but my 6.0 has done everything of what I've asked of it and then some...except tow up a 6% grade fast, duh. Giant-azz man car that's a tank, goes anywhere I want, tows anything I need (up to 10k), turns like a Civic, and gets 11+ MPG...I'm smitten, haha!

Personally, I'd avoid the 6L80 behind another LS it wasn't born with...I understand the ECMs & TCMs speak different languages. Consequently running two beasts in stand-alone harnesses is moronic in my opinion.

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[Skinny]

I will say that if you don't want AC or don't care to find the elusive van bracket for the compressor, the 8.1 is just as cheap of not cheaper to swap. Especially if your truck is already a big block.

But anything LS is probably the best you can get for the money.

I'm not sure I understand the elure of a TBI engine. Sure it is easy to wire but all of that stuff is over 20+ years old. LS engined are also supported 100 to 1 in the aftermarket compared to that architecture.

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[chevymike]

I'm not sure I understand the elure of a TBI engine. Sure it is easy to wire but all of that stuff is over 20+ years old. LS engined are also supported 100 to 1 in the aftermarket compared to that architecture.

Well mine will be TBI'ish. Engine is a roller cam, Vortec heads 454. I am using a standard carb intake and will use a TBI kit that will bolt to it. The advantages will be, dead simple with only 5 easy to replace and cheap sensors. It also gives me the ability if the whole TBI system bites the dust on a trip, I can easily swap to a standard carburetor and continue on my way. This would be a last resort but it is an easy option. Can't really do that with an LS engine.

Not to say an LS isn't a great option and I had the opportunity to buy a 2WD GMC with the 6.0 LS but in looking at everything, the BBC made more sense, for me, especially since squarebodies had them stock. I can use stock exhaust manifolds and most anything else. Add that bottom end torque is better on a BBC than LS. I don't need big HP numbers as even stock the BBC will be twice the 6.2L and have a bigger RPM swing, at least an extra 1500+.

 

[Skinny]

What kind of kit are you using?

My friend wants to do an EFI conversion on his 3.5 Land Rover but he is hesitant to use the new all in one kits.

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[chevymike]

What kind of kit are you using?

My friend wants to do an EFI conversion on his 3.5 Land Rover but he is hesitant to use the new all in one kits.

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Performance Fuel Injection is likely the kit I am going with, since it is a little cheaper. https://pfisys.com/

The other one I was looking at is Howell EFI. Nice thing is they have a lot of kits for a lot of applications. https://howellefi.com/

Now keep in mind, this is coming from a guy who has a FiTech EFI sitting in the box, in my living room. I like them but since the computer is mounted into the body of the unit, it gets a lot of heat. I was really concerned about failure rates and not being able to get any real replacement parts. This will be fine for my hot rods, where I am always somewhere I could have a tow truck get it but not for an overland rig that could be hundreds of miles away from anything. Yep, 20+ years old TBI tech but still see a ton of those truck and cars on the road with them today.

 

[Skinny]

I think getting replacement parts for any of those is difficult since they are either really old architecture like the the first one you posted or a custom aftermarket one. If I had to do it I'd go aftermarket. Most likely they are based on a common off the shelf part that you just need to find the actual numbers of the part itself. There are only so many sensors and actuators made by Delco, Bosch, Denso, etc.

I like the interchangeable systems like going TBI to a carb in a pinch but a grand is a lot of money to spend in TBI. That looks like something you would do 15 years ago when bit was the only option. Like those old analog projection kits. But something with LS injection is not only newer but more readily available.

I'm not sure if I would worry about heat issues. A lot of newer stuff have the ECM either in the engine bay or right on the engine. I think a lot of diesels have that too. ECM right in the side of the block.

I just worked on a turbo 5.7 generator and it's ECM is right on top of the intake manifold.





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[LT67]

I think if mine ever checks out, I'll do the 6.0 LS. Super dependable, last a good long time and swap prices are reasonable. They are also reasonably efficient. We have mountains here. 6.2 + mountain = s l o w.

Have you hit any of the off road trails in the north Ga mtns with your cucv? I'd love to do it, but it's at least a 3hr drive from west Carroll county..

 

[WillWagner]

My , A swap to ANY inline will force a gear change. Remember, they turn 2500 RPM or less in stock form. there is usually apx 2-3 mph to every 100 rpm turned, so if the 6.2 turns 3600 RPM and the I 4-6 turns 2500 RPM, there will be a minimum road speed loss of 22 MPH. Your mileage will suffer because to drive it at speed, you will be at the top of the governor into the governor break area, 2600-2650 but only if the RPM can push the load at that speed, there is usually no power being produced at the gov break, only RPM. You will also have no room to overtake another vehicle on the road.....most will be passing YOU!

If it were me, I would find an older D-Max powered truck and swap the complete power pack into the CUCV, but that is some work.

Easiest, most straight forward swap would be the 6.2 /6.5. There is enough room in the blazer engine compartment to stuff a 6.5 turbo in it with little modification.

 

[SuperAwesomeDOOD]

Putting a 12v in front of a th400 or even a 4l80 is going to kill the tranny. If you aren’t towing a ton, or driving 30k a year. I’d do a gm gas engine. If you choose to keep the th400, you’ll need to adjust or swap your vacuum regulator and put the correct governor springs in it. Without swapping the governor springs it’ll shift up around 3000rpm at full throttle instead of letting

I’m wrapping up something similar in my truck. I got a smoking deal on a new L31-r (4-bolt Vortec 350) long block from GM and I’m running it with a nv4500. No driveline mods required and bolts directly to the np208. You can run a W crossmember or do a 4x4 steel tube spacer on the flat crossmember.

For fuel and spark, I’m running an Eddy Pro-flo 4 mpfi system. Should beon the road soon. UPS lost one of my ORD custom springs, so they’re doing some sort of “investigation” . Hopefully it’s resolved soonish.

 

[Sharecropper]

Putting a 12v in front of a th400 or even a 4l80 is going to kill the tranny. If you aren’t towing a ton, or driving 30k a year. I’d do a gm gas engine. If you choose to keep the th400, you’ll need to adjust or swap your vacuum regulator and put the correct governor springs in it. Without swapping the governor springs it’ll shift up around 3000rpm at full throttle instead of letting

I’m wrapping up something similar in my truck. I got a smoking deal on a new L31-r (4-bolt Vortec 350) long block from GM and I’m running it with a nv4500. No driveline mods required and bolts directly to the np208. You can run a W crossmember or do a 4x4 steel tube spacer on the flat crossmember.

For fuel and spark, I’m running an Eddy Pro-flo 4 mpfi system. Should beon the road soon. UPS lost one of my ORD custom springs, so they’re doing some sort of “investigation” . Hopefully it’s resolved soonish.
View attachment 820624View attachment 820625View attachment 820626View attachment 820627

Sayyyy....... what brand of floor insulation is that?

 

[LT67]

The 6.2 in my 86 M1008 has some extra blow by and it's losing compression. If I can't find another used 6.2 in decent condition, I'll just rebuild what I got provided there's no cracks and the crank is still good to go. I don't mind the 6.2 diesel. It does what I want it to....

 

[SuperAwesomeDOOD]

Sayyyy....... what brand of floor insulation is that?

I’m kind of a hillbilly. I took the concepts of insulation and applied them in my own way after priming and painting with rattle cans.

Lizard skin is a product that is latex based with micro beads in it. The micro beads have been used in the aircraft industry for years, so I bought a few pounds and mixed them into the highest traffic latex deck paint I could find.


Then to duplicate the properties of dynomat, I used some peel ply that I had left over from a job on the entire floor.


Then I used a roll of insulation that I use on ductwork and plenums to finish it off.


I did behind the door panels too. My carpet kit also has some sound deadener underlayment. It’s really quiet for an old truck.

 

[Sharecropper]

I’m kind of a hillbilly. I took the concepts of insulation and applied them in my own way after priming and painting with rattle cans.

Lizard skin is a product that is latex based with micro beads in it. The micro beads have been used in the aircraft industry for years, so I bought a few pounds and mixed them into the highest traffic latex deck paint I could find.
View attachment 820671

Then to duplicate the properties of dynomat, I used some peel ply that I had left over from a job on the entire floor.
View attachment 820672

Then I used a roll of insulation that I use on ductwork and plenums to finish it off.
View attachment 820673

I did behind the door panels too. My carpet kit also has some sound deadener underlayment. It’s really quiet for an old truck.

Thanks for the reply. That’s probably the best floor insulation I have ever seen. Great job!

 

[Skinny]

That must be a pleasure to drive with a 5 speed and all that insulation.

I'm rocking a TH400 and bare metal floors. I swear I am going deaf...

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[85CUCVtom]

Sooooo much money money money for what? Tons of noise and smoke? Not bashing the Cummins or even the newer 6.5s but gosh, so much headache and for what? Anyhow, I got an old chevy with a good 454 and had everything I needed for $1,200.00. Running for years in my Blazer and the expense (other than fuel) has been oil changes and one fuel filler. They are much More quite (even with the 40 series Flowmaster) and they run smooth. Those darn diesels rattle the trucks apart over the years. I love keeping thing original but... 6.2 in a blazer... Not for this guy
PS... chicks dig the big block sound too!

Correction! I also had to get a different vacuum module for the trans to get the shift points correct... $15 ish

This was my logic going with a gasser versus a diesel engine. I had a motorhome 454 for a bit but a friend needed it more than me. The big advantage, at least as I see it, is a gas motor swap can be done super cheap when compared to a diesel swap.

And yes, chicks dig big blocks

 

[85CUCVtom]

I think if mine ever checks out, I'll do the 6.0 LS. Super dependable, last a good long time and swap prices are reasonable. They are also reasonably efficient. We have mountains here. 6.2 + mountain = s l o w.

When done right you cannot beat an LS swap. Cost is a little more but the LS series of engines are rock solid, especially that 6.0L and they have a ton of aftermarket support

 

[85CUCVtom]

Putting a 12v in front of a th400 or even a 4l80 is going to kill the tranny. If you aren’t towing a ton, or driving 30k a year. I’d do a gm gas engine. If you choose to keep the th400, you’ll need to adjust or swap your vacuum regulator and put the correct governor springs in it. Without swapping the governor springs it’ll shift up around 3000rpm at full throttle instead of letting

I’m wrapping up something similar in my truck. I got a smoking deal on a new L31-r (4-bolt Vortec 350) long block from GM and I’m running it with a nv4500. No driveline mods required and bolts directly to the np208. You can run a W crossmember or do a 4x4 steel tube spacer on the flat crossmember.

For fuel and spark, I’m running an Eddy Pro-flo 4 mpfi system. Should beon the road soon. UPS lost one of my ORD custom springs, so they’re doing some sort of “investigation” . Hopefully it’s resolved soonish.
View attachment 820624View attachment 820625View attachment 820626View attachment 820627

Very nice!

 

[Skinny]

I have advocated this before and the cronies give me flack because of what I am saying.

If you have a CUCV and want some luxury like AC, overdrive, and maybe some more power, then the LS is by far the easiest way to get there.

For maybe $3k ballpark, you are into an LS which comes with a modern transmission and a compressor on the engine already. Plus a decent compressor and not that garbage pancake the 80's saw.

Ok maybe if you have a donor 80's truck with TBI that could come in at a lower price point but LS is a lot of upgrade for not a lot more money.

All the turbo, 6.5, or add ons are just not going to add up, be expensive one step at a time, and not really work well. A gear vendors is just a band aid on a junk TH400.

So let's go through it...

Add a turbo to 6.2
Repair a 30 something year old 6.2 with new IP
Add 4L80 or that Uber expensive Gear Vendors overdrive
Fit that awkward CUCV compressor bracket
Etc Etc Etc

So you are like three times as much money as an LS swap. Not to mention millions of LS 4L80 parts exist so you can have stuff on your door step immediately compared to 80's stuff. Don't shoot the messenger...

I have the original driveline in my M1031 but the minute that thing fails, I will have an LS shoe horned in there before any junk 6.5, although if you wanted stay diesel I guess you could go after a P400 or Optimizer but man those are big money.

My 8.1 Suburban drives like a muscle car and it was really the same price as a small block LS. The only downside is if you want AC you have to hunt for the unicorn van brackets to make it work. Aside from that and fuel economy I can't see why you would want anything from the 80's.

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