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Engine ugrades

3dubs

New member
424
2
0
Location
Houston, TX
I have my engine out thanks to GL and starter fluid. I have an main cap stud girdle to strengthen the bottom end. What else is good to do when you have the engine out?
 

mahdey

Member
213
5
18
Location
Ft. Knox KY
go to the scrap yard and turn that pos 6.2 in. Then buy a cummins engine for transplant. But in all seriousness, i would grab a manual and check everything to make sure tolernaces are in spec. I would put all new bearings in, gaskets and piston rings. Pretty much, you have it out, why not rebuild it; a 6.2 needs all the help it can get and then some.
 

3dubs

New member
424
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Location
Houston, TX
Yeah, I have been checking everything. I have all new bearings and a new rear main seal. There was oil leaking out of the rear of the engine did not know if it was the oil pan gasket or rear main seal. So replace them both. I am also replacing the fuel pump. It is real easy to get to when the engine is out.
 

mahdey

Member
213
5
18
Location
Ft. Knox KY
Yeah, I have been checking everything. I have all new bearings and a new rear main seal. There was oil leaking out of the rear of the engine did not know if it was the oil pan gasket or rear main seal. So replace them both. I am also replacing the fuel pump. It is real easy to get to when the engine is out.
gotta love older vehicles...just thank god its not an 08-newer superduty. Everything is "refer to procedure 1804 (i think thats the #) remove cab"
 

3dubs

New member
424
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Location
Houston, TX
Yes it is torn down. Only found black carbon behind the second ring on a couple pistons. But no real damage. I was worried about a trip to a machine shop but it is not bad at all. I am just replacing the rings because I have new ones. But the engine was running just very weak and when it warmed up it died. There was smoke coming out of the oil so there was too much blow-by. I would like to add a turbo so I am also adding the main cap stud girdle while it is apart. I think the rings were just wearing out and not sealing well. So replacing the rings and rehoning the cylinders. I will get the heads checked out at a shop. But they look good. I have only rebuilt gas engines so it looks like a lot of carbon build up. I guess the army does not use Lucas in the oil.
 

kapnklug

Member
234
3
18
Location
spencer,ny
Hey 3Dubs, where didja get that main stud girdle? Was it expensive? Do you think it could be installed with the engine still in the truck, just drop the pan?
 

3dubs

New member
424
2
0
Location
Houston, TX
If you can get to the main cap studs with a torque wrench then you can put it on. It was about $160 plus shipping. It is from Canada so the price changes with the currency exchange. But they charged me in US Dollars so there no extra fee from my credit card. It ties the three middle caps together to make them stronger. It goes on the outside bolts. The kit has everything. I would not add a turbo without it. The guys at DSG speak Canadian but seem like real good people. I will take picks and post the by this weekend.
STUD GIRDLE KIT

The speak Canadian part was a joke so do not think "aboot" it too much.
 
Last edited:

CDN-CUCV

New member
166
4
0
Location
Republic of Vancouver Island
If you can get to the main cap studs with a torque wrench then you can put it on. It was about $160 plus shipping. It is from Canada so the price changes with the currency exchange. But they charged me in US Dollars so there no extra fee from my credit card. It ties the three middle caps together to make them stronger. It goes on the outside bolts. The kit has everything. I would not add a turbo without it. The guys at DSG speak Canadian but seem like real good people. I will take picks and post the by this weekend.
STUD GIRDLE KIT

The speak Canadian part was a joke so do not think "aboot" it too much.
Thanks for the info. Just picked up another J code 6.2 and looking to build it for a turbo as well.

As far as 'speaking Canadian', If anyone is having difficulties with understanding the language, I'm willing to offer translation services.:wink:
 

3dubs

New member
424
2
0
Location
Houston, TX
I guess I will save my core and rebuild it myself. I want one sitting on the shelf anyway. I was thinking of mixing WMO with diesel. I heard IO and injector problems may happen. So an extra IP and a ultrasonic cleaner for the injectors.

If the IP goes out before I mix WMO I will post it. But it would cost $550 to get mine rebuilt. I will get a DB2 rebuild kit they are less than fifty bucks. It was a $100 core so my time plus about a hundred fifty bucks total. Then if it is sloppy work then it is my sloppy work.
 

3dubs

New member
424
2
0
Location
Houston, TX
I also found out there are two specs for torquing down the heads. One for plain grade eight bolts and one for head bolts. The head bolts have stuff on the threads and just under the head. Because of that the plain bolts go to 100 ft lbs, but head bolts go to fifty ft lbs and then a quarter turn. If you torque the head bolts to 100 ft lbs there is a loud booming snap and part of the bolt jumps out of the head. That is followed by a very loud foul word that echos. I was lucky and when I took the head off I could get vice grips on the part of the bolt and get it out. I was going to return the bolts as defective but had to wait for monday for them to come in so I went to another store. Their bolts came with a little piece of paper with instuctions. I saw the other torque and it did not match my book so I looked into and found it. So I hope someone reds this and saves the fifty bucks on head bolts or worse. I had finished one head and was almost finished with the second when the bolt broke. So I have to take the other off and replace the bolts. I do not want a broken head bolt when I am driving or a cracked head.

It really makes me mad because I check the specs on every bolt and bearing. But this was in the fine print. I am about to see what the TM says but Chilton or whatever brand book has it in small print on paper that I can't read it. I may just print the TM and use that.
 
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