engine woes

[shootist]

the beauty of M37's is that you can do it several ways depending on what your needs/wants are. If the brackets are still there for bolting the radiator to the block, the whole power unit (radiator, engine, transmission) can be removed as an assembly.

OF the brackets are still there to bolt the radiator to block, but I dont think I can get the radiator through the supports so I probably will disconnect it ,pop it then pull the motor out and up. I was trying to avoid pulling the front clip only because
I know Ill end up with an electrical nightmare with the harnesses on the fenders.
You are correct though it would probably be the more proficient way.

Be very careful with the exhaust manifold and when you re-assemble, use the correct fasteners and proper torque. My former owner didn't and the manifold cracked when it couldn't expand and contract.

Ya the manifold has to be replaced its cracked at the exhaust flange
and at the front closest to #1cyl.
Was gonna be my winter project replacing it.....

 

[Oldfart]

Shootist,
The radiator bracket comes out with the radiator attached. You don't have to drain fluids when it comes out as an assembly. However, you are going to tear the engine down anyway, so no advantage to keeping the power assembly together on the pull. I will see if I can find and electronic version of the manuals for the M37/M43 that covers the engine pull. Ghostdriver has my hard copies so I don't have anything I can scan right away.


http://www.militarytrucks.ca/m37.htm

 

[shootist]

Thanks OF, I have most all of the manuals. There is a referance to removal in each
But I did notice that in 1840A it did defer to another tm but I dont have it infront of me
at the moment. i think it may be tm 9-804 ill have to look.
My thought was I couldnt remove the powerpack as a unit with out removing the fenders.
But I think ill remove the radiator first, then the powerpack and tranny as a unit- thats the theory
At this point.....but it does appear fairly easy, but that seems to be my famous last words!
Ill post the tm that is referenced in 1840A.
Once tje process begins Ill try to photo it as I progress.
sorry for spelling using a phone to type

 

[shootist]

ok

the motor threw a rear main bearing and the rod bearing in the #5 cylinder.
Cylnder walls were lined and seem fine except for some minor pits in #4
sent block out to be bored, crank has been turned valves cleaned etc.
Ill get some pics up of the process before I start to reassemble.

sorry so long for an update- needed to get the equipment to pull
the power pack. and 2 more sets of hands!
pulled all in one piece with out removing fenders to took about a half hour or so!

 

[DieselBob]

Glad to hear that no major damage accrued that couldn't be corrected.

 

[plym49]

Hi Shootist - I am sorry that I am on to this thread late. I was pretty sure from your first post that you lost a rod bearing. Not a wrist pin - never have seen a wrist pin go bad on these motors. They lose rod bearings, and they lose piston lands. That's pretty much it.

Also, SOP back in the day was to rebuild the motor in the vehicle. The crank deos not need to come out unless it needed to be cut, and even then there were tools to grind the crank in the vehicle (good luck finding them today, though). You hone the cylinders from the top and wash everything down with kero and a wipe wiith an oily rag. There were even boring bars that attached to the top of the block, to overbore right in the vehicle.

Gotta love a flathead.

The #1 reason that rod bearings go in these motors is the road draft crankcase ventilation. Dirty air finds its way into the motor, and with the bypass filter (some motors did not even have that) gritty oil goes through the motor, and the rod bearings were the weak link.

The reason that ring lands go is that the stock aluminum alloy pistons were kind of soft - not the best alloy. The top ring wiggles up and down in the top ring land. It pounds that land, widening the ring groove, until finally a piece of the ring breaks off and/or the top of the piston land breaks off. The pieces percolate around the cylinder and cause all kinds of excitement. Oddly you can drive like this and usually the cylinder survives undamaged, but the piston is toast.

You should install a crankcase ventilation system (PCV) so that only filtered air goes into the crankcase. Not much you can do about the bypass filter - I am very skeptical of the full-flow mods that some folks do to the oil pump, as it introduces a restriction in the oil flow to the crank.

BTW there is very little oil that gets to some of the valve lifters. Some folks plumb the crankcase vent return or even an auxiliary 'spray' oil line to the lifters. This is usually just for hi - po applications of this motor (sounds weird, I know).

Good luck and do not hesitate to PM if you have a specific question..

 

[GUNNY 155]

Enjoyed reading all the comments. I guess I will put in my 2 cents now. I have about 30 some years of mechanical backround and have built a lot of engines. And yes that makes me also qualified as an old fart. Anytime a engine is boarderline and is put back together piecemeal the chances of it staying together are slim. The chances of a bigger major failure are greater and are almost certain. You were lucky in that it stayed together and you have a rebuildable core. If you have a major failure now you are left with needing to purchase a core (junk) engine just to get a rebuild / overhaul off the ground. The 230 is a good engine with pretty cheap parts as a whole. Do it right the first time and you will be ahead. I did my engine on my frame off restoration and it was not too bad cost wise for the parts. Machine work was not bad for the basic valve job, undersize the crank and rebore. I also added balancing of the rods, crank and flywheel. Also resurfaced the head, flywheel and block deck. So the Gee Wiz stuff drove the cost up some. To bad your not closer I would help you out with the build. Good luck.

 

[snowdad]

Did you locate a water distribution tube? They are commonly found on eBay believe it or not. Used and New. I bought a couple recently for about $20 a piece. Both in useable condition. Keep us updated and ask any questions needed. And maybe I can get some spring farm things done and get back to my restoration. If 'Anonymous' doesn't rear its ugly head here again!

 

[shootist]

Guys thanks for the replies.

I plan on adding a pcv valve.
Block still isn't back from machine shop yet.
Everything but the crank is going to be brand new
just need the dimensions from the machinist before I order any parts.

I figured I would go over board also and have everything balanced
that's a great idea don't want to be going through all this again!!

I found the water tubes also but very expensive. Kinda silly money for that.
Let me know if you want to part with one of yours!!

 

[T. Highway]

I found my water tube at Midwest Military for $49 I thought that was very reasonable.

Bert

 

[shootist]

Thanks T.Highway
What I meant by silly cost- was the 49.00!
I would be much more inclined to spend 20.00
Although if I cant find one for the 20.00 unfortunately
Ill have to pay the crazy cost for the tube.
Is it me or does it seem like -parts you would think would cost an arm and a leg cost very little,
and the parts that should cost very little cost an arm and a leg!

thanks again for the info

 

[snowdad]

If one doesn't pop up on eBay, that will be the cheapest you can find.

 

[shootist]

I have a few hundred pics to post from the point above to
The complete engine rebuild (hopefully its done this up coming week)
Unfortunately for me every thing you could possibly replace
Had to be replaced. On top of recieving bad parts or misrepresented
Parts its been a nightmare!! I hope to resize for posting shortly.
Because of the amount of photos I may post in my album
I'll keep you posted