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I take care of my Precision Instruments split beam and it shows 4% no where close to +/- 35%. This is not a cheap beam torque wrench and I trust it. I do ad couple of drops of oil to the threads as the manufacture recommends. Your truck as always do what you think is best. Myself when using my 915A2 and 373A2 trailer on the highway grossing 40k I know my wheels are real close to specs.
Doesn't matter, you're still getting a huge difference, like 35%. Even if your torque wrench can get the torque on the head within 4%, getting the torque on the head that close only results in a +/-35% tension ("preload") on the bolt!
To elaborate on why Wheelspinner is correct, with a beadlock rim the beads of the tire are literally clamped to the rim on both sides. Unless you rip the bead off the tire, it physically can not come off, even at 0PSI.
If you say yourself that you don't know what's in the tire, how can you be so sure that you've personally seen a tire come off the beadlock? Trick question... you can't. If that pushes your buttons, that's on you.
I will let you rookies in on a little secret. Beadlocks can fail and a tire can come off the bead. Especially the strap type hutchinson beadlocks. Some of the bolts that were used with the straps especially on early production ones were not fitted with stainless steel bolts. or the Motor pool/contract center used whatever bolts they could find. They rusted and got weak from internal moisture. When driving on a flat the increased stress on the bolts caused them to break off and the straps would come loose causing it to expand and it would seperate in the middle causing a weak spot on the bead and or cause the insert to bend. I have taken apart more than a few flat ran 395s with the internal straps busted. I could always tell the strap was busted before hand cause the wheel face would break the bead way to easy with 1 hit. Over a normal 4 or 6 from a crowbar.
I don't think that's a secret, especially since those you've seen fail did so because they were poorly maintained and malfunctioning. Beadlocks are a design intended specifically keep the tire from coming off the rim, in situations that would do it to non-beadlocked tires. When functioning correctly, the beadlock rim will destroy the tire before the bead comes off the rim. (I think you've even posted some pictures like that, where the sidewall and carcass are mangled and destroyed, but the bead is still in the rim. Maybe it was somebody else.)
If that was on an FMTV, you should take the tires off and find out what is wrong, instead of acting like such a snowflake that someone disagreed with you. I don't have any problem with you personally, but your story can not physically happen with these beadlocked rims installed and functioning correctly. The bead is clamped to both sides of the rim, all the way around, and the tire sidewall will fail before the beadlock will because it is the weak link. Look at that picture above.
I use the same precision instruments torque wrench. I get your point, but there is no reasonable solution other than a torque wrench. It's not like we have sonic strain guages or are going to use dial indicators to measure bolt stretch. When I was an aircraft mechanic we used torque wrenches so at least there is repeatability and some equity between the other fasteners. My point is, even if the 35% number is accurate its good enough for industry, minus nasa and the like.
In a tow truck being towed to the CAT dealer. AAA RVplus does not cover the cost of towing the FMTV family of vehicles.
